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The Wines

95-97% Syrah, 3-5% Viognier, 60% from sanded granite soils on Le Goutay (1988-99, 2001), Combard (1998-99, 2001, southern zone), 40% from schist soils on Les Moutonnes (1960s) and next door Côte Baudin (part 1960s, part 1980s) on the Côte Brune zone, destemmed crop (only 70% destemmed in 2015), 15-18 day vinification, twice daily pumping overs, three daily manual cap punchings during maceration, aged 1-2-3 year oak casks 21-26 months, north & south zone wines blended prior to bottling, unfined, filtered, 4-6,000 b

2018 ()

(casks) dark red, black tinted robe; crushed nutshells, oaking lead the nose, with a sleek black fruit presence and a jolly cluster of violets. It’s wide, and will be imposing. The fruit quality is high on the palate, carries a supple, pure texture, and is enjoyably free towards the finish, where there are supple tannins. This lights up the glass, is refined and stylish, good get up and go Rôtie, most eye catching. From spring 2021-2022. 2040-42 Nov 2019

2017 ()

(casks) dark hued robe; the bouquet has an iodine presence, ripe and well formed black fruit inside, a hint of raspberry, light drifts of oaking, black olives, a sense of the south. The palate is thorough, holds engaging fruit, ripe tannins that fit in well, produces a little perfume on the still reticent close. The fruit gains a surge towards the finish. This has good shape, a little power, and will evolve well and steadily, without many halts en route. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. 13.5°. From 2022. 2040-42 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(casks) black-centre robe, crimson top. The nose combines crushed nutshells, oak, with stylish black fruits, a note of lead pencil. It’s a direct autograph of a northern, schist sector wine. The palate holds attractive black berry fruits, cassis to the fore, with crunchy tannins from half way. It’s promising, an articulate, typical 2016 with stealthy gain in depth towards the finish, one of its best cards there, a great flourish. From 2021. 2033-35 Nov 2017

2015 ()

(casks) full, dark red. The bouquet gives a perfumed, violets air above its black berry fruit, is a full, harmonious start. The palate bears savoury content, with a juicy welling up on the second half, with enjoyable blackberry fruit at its centre. The finish is also well juiced, with fine tannin present. This is an accurate vintage 2015, sensuous Rôtie, with good detail and an unforced style. 13.5°. 6,000 b. €21. From mid-2018. 2032-34 Oct 2016  Previously Apr 2016 **** two parts tasted 1) 2-year 228-litre cask, southern zone from own vineyards on Le Goutay, Combard, 60% of the wine ***(*) shiny dark red robe. The nose has an elegant roundness, gives a raspberry, coulis style aroma, has a gentle depth. The palate gives a precise run of red berry fruit, clear tannins adding late breeze; there is a show of oak, too. This builds depth on the finish, is a crystalline wine. From 2020. 2032-33 2) 2 year 228-litre cask, rented vineyards on Les Moutonnes & Côte Baudin, 40% of the wine **** shiny dark red. The nose is beau, gives raspberry with a comfortable depth. It is charming, fine, shows light perfume. The palate holds joli, suave fruit, no hurry about it. It runs with freshness, cool tannins present. It goes long, with detail above all. This is notably fine, a wine that will require patience, has a beau Burgundian manner. From 2021. 2033-34  Apr 2016

2014 ()

(mixed casks, the approximate blend) pretty dark red robe. The nose is full, goes across with a couch of simmered dark berries, raspberry. It has a steady depth, and can emerge well. It is very much on the fruit without extras for now. The attack is tasty, open, has an uncomplicated presentation. There are loose channels of fruit, a mild texture, fine late tannins that involve powder, oak, licorice. Good CHR (Café Hotel Restaurant), bistrot restaurant wine. It is savoury and round with its aromatic red berry fruit. Honest Côte-Rôtie. A little will be bottled June 2016, the majority Dec 2016. From spring 2018. 2024-26 Apr 2016

2013 ()

½ bottle, bottled Dec 2015: plum red colour with violet tints. The nose is coming together, is promising, making its way. It has a weave of red berry and dried flowers, an above all accurate Côte-Rôtie aroma. The palate holds crunchy content, with red berry persistence in its late stages. There is fine, compressed juice here. The tannins are firm with a little give at the end. “It is starting to open,” C Billon. 13°. From 2020. 2029-30 Apr 2016 Previously Jan 2015 *** (casks) dark robe. Has a nutted, oaked air with soft black berry fruit present - a nose that is curvy. The palate collects a sweet note to the fruit, is soft and squeezy, will be drinking earlier than many. The finish is restrained, correct, a touch of extra darkness provided by its tannin, a crisper note there. It is a bit lacking in real depth and doesn’t really grab the attention. 13°. 5,000 b. 5% Viognier. €30 at the cellars. From mid-2016. 2025-26  Jan 2015

2012

(casks) dark robe, attractive. Balanced bouquet, plenty of depth and potential, gives nut crunch airs, fluid black cherry, wee airs of prune. It is rather raw, almost like a Vin Naturel. The black cherry fruit runs serenely along the palate, with agreeable lift and energy. It is a tiny bit stretched after the mid-palate, then continues on to a tar, melted chocolate, black berry and black raisin finale, so there is plenty still going on there. Interesting wine, has character; its depth is good, and it offers a stimulating drink. From mid-2015. 12.5°. 2023-25  Nov 2013

2009

(casks) quite dark, sober robe. Sense of liqueur plum fruit on the nose, brioche baked bread in behind, airs of wax and high tone. Abundant content on the palate – a potentially gourmand wine that takes on pebbly tannins that are largely ripe. No-nonsense wine, not “precious”, has honest virtues. A robust sort of Côte-Rôtie, has an easy generosity on the attack, the fruit has drive in it. STGT wine. From late 2012. Release Sept 2011. 2020-23 Nov 2010 Previously Nov 2009 **** (4 year cask) big robe – gutsy black-purple. Has a lingering, sustained aroma, a lot of black berry fruit in it. The palate is savoury and full, sweet and rich. There is plenty in it, and I find it a bit like 1999. The balance seems good. 2023-25 Nov 2009

2008

receiving 50% new oak this year in the absence of a separate Brocarde cuvée Cask 1 ** three-quarter depth robe; smoky, red fruit aroma with a touch of bacon fat – this is a fine, not esp deep bouquet. There is a fine line of red fruit that is trimmed with a floral sheen. A slow gain wine with gradual chew and tannin – be patient. Not a wine for the sweet-toothers. From 2012-13. 2020-21. Cask 2 (new, Brocarde part, to be assembled) *(*) red with some black at the centre; has a mild, floating red fruit aroma with floral instincts – shows a little class, and I prefer it to the palate, which is bundled up, small scale offer of smooth red fruit, and a late gummy texture. 1.5° chaptalised. Oak is apparent on the finish. OVERALL an aromatic wine in the making, life to 2018-20 Nov 2009

2007

½ bottle: steady red robe, all the way up. Red cherry, baked pebbles in a compact nose, with an air of marzipan – this is an aromatic, close-knit do. The palate brings attractive, direct fruit but is still not unleashed, has a crystalline, bell-like ring to it – delightful. It gains in tannin and coherence as it goes. A gracious wine that can sing as it matures. From mid-2011. Bottled 31 August 2009. 2019-20. Nov 2009 Previously Dec 2008 (casks) ***(*) (casks) matt-hued dark plum colour; the bouquet shows stewed red plum or quince fruit with floral notes – it comes out on a friendly curve, the fruit is ripe. Likewise, the palate holds safe and sound red fruit with a pleasant, unfussy nature – this is a local child of the hillsides. The red fruit with a sense of liqueur in it continues ripely. Unpretentious local wine that is a little reductive now. Good length, pretty STGT wine. From 2010. 2017-18 Dec 2008

2006

½ bottle: a little advance at the top of the red robe; has an almost Marmite aroma – vegetable yeast, along with dense loganberry, big berry fruit. Is opening up well at 3 years` old. Red fruits abound on the palate, and have a good spring in their step. A wine of nice, local feel – quite a gutsy Côte-Rôtie. Has a definite oak and tannin end that is chewy, the length sound. Decant this. From mid-2010. 2019-20 Nov 2009

2005

full red robe, still in the game. The bouquet is toasted, with bonny, live fruit behind that outer air – it shows tangly, brambly hedge and raspberry fruit behind. The palate has handsome fruit, which peeks out, then declares with good authority – it is black fruit, with good grip and poise. Nothing flash here – also good, an honest Côte-Rôtie without frills. w.o.w. drinking. 13°. 2016-18 Dec 2008

2002

(cask) easy, overt wine, for restaurants. Rounded aromas. Should not leave this in cask for 18 months.

2001 ()

(cask) well scented, mix of damp earth/red berry. Firms up after fruit start, bit tight, touch burnt on finish. From 2005.