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The Wines

60% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, 20% Viognier (early-mid 1980s) from 1 hectare on quite deep soils on Bonnivières & Champon, steel vat fermented at 18°-20°C, raised 67% steel vat, 33% used 300-litre oak cask 9 months, malo usually completed (2017 not), 4,500 b

2018

fine yellow colour; the bouquet is soft, has an open air of white fruits, vanilla from the oak. The palate holds discreet richness, a flavour of dried fruits, is plump in style until tang-grip at the end. It’s a shade rustic – less clear/pure than many now well made N Rhône whites, but will be OK with food. I note the degree on the label – 14.5°. Bottled late August 2019. To 2024 Nov 2019

2017 ()

(cask) yellow robe. Dried fruits, peach stone air on the nose which is pretty clear and lucid, a hint of SO2; it’s a nugget opening. The palate holds good, restrained gras richness, with no false flesh, good grip, has good foundation. There is definite late grip, even tannin. It has nerve, will be good with white meats. “It is very aromatic, the blend of the three varieties allows the refreshing of the wine, and gives better balance overall,” Jean-Luc Jamet. 13°. To 2023 Mar 2018

2016 ()

shiny yellow. Has a nicely open nose, pear and apricot with a thread of infused tea, clarity, dried fruits. There is comfortable gras on the attack, with swift grip, a tightening after the squeezy first delivery. White fruits, saline moments appear towards the finish, as well as a touch of honey. This has good character. The Viognier leaves a good plumpness and texture. It has structure, nice length. “It is well balanced, is a good table wine,” Jean-Luc Jamet. 13°. To 2023 Mar 2018

2015

shiny, nice full yellow robe. The nose is starting to evolve, shows white tobacco, ginger, quince plums, toast, bears good freshness. The palate links well to the nose via a fresh, minted spine, spearmint, and a good spring in its step. There’s some oak toast on the end. There is worthy coolness on the palate. This is very enjoyable, has status. This is well blended, can integrate further, is up to St Jo blanc standard. 13°. This will be good with pork. “This year I used one new cask with two young ones, so it was marked by oak, but that is absorbing. It will go well with white meats, crudités,” J-L Jamet. €16 at the cellars is VALUE. 2023-24 Mar 2018

2014 ()

this is the first of two bottlings: there is gentle evolution on the yellow robe.  The bouquet is easing into its armchair, softening with a pear, guava, cooked lemon aroma, some low-key oak toast. The palate has notably Roussanne, with Viognier forward on the attack, is aromatic, has a white plum, peach flavour with a steady, direct run into the finish, where there is spearmint. The Marsanne only shows on the finish – there is some ginger tang there, orange marmalade. It’s at a good stage, has good length, is near its summit. I like the touch of the salt on the aftertaste. To 2020 Mar 2018