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The Wines

Viognier (1984-85) from 1.1 hectare on Côte Châtillon at Condrieu, decanted at 10-12°C for 24 hrs, fermented at 18-20°C, raised 50-60% 22 hl large oak barrel and 40-50% steel vat (has been raised 50% 5-15 year 580-litre oak casks, until 2006 was always 50% vat), malo completed, 4,500-5,200 b

2019

1) (the first harvest on 9 Sept, the first pressing of Côte Châtillon) ****(*) pale yellow; the nose is refined, shows pear fruit, has style. The palate is notably elegant, holds good, well-tuned gras, is silken in texture, with late salted moments. There is a good spring in its step. 7-8 years 2) (the second harvest on 14 Sept) **** fine yellow robe; elderberry, lime-lemon airs, a nose that’s a bit discreet. The palate holds refined gras, is more concentrated than the previous, earlier harvested Châtillon, is more in on itself, reduced, which protects the aromatics. The length is good. It is certainly compatible with the earlier harvested wine. 8-9 years. It’s a promising wine in the making. 2027-28 Dec 2019

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; the nose is very elegant, composed of peach, aniseed, white plum, has an excellent floating style, grace. This is top tack! It has much suavity of texture, with very assured persistence, is refined and gliding throughout. It’s real good Châtillon, bang on the money as it should be, is STGT wine. It bears neat iron touches, has a pear-buttery flavour, and butter-floral late moments, a dab of petrol also. Much refinement here. 14.5°. €30. 2027-28 Dec 2019

2017 ()

pale yellow; has a greengage, white plum aroma, with banana, a hint of apricot, white strawberry. It persists serenely, shows a little oak. The palate comes with the 2017 strength implicit on the attack, crushed white fruits, nectarine, ripe white peach; it has strength from within, not just on the surface. It has kind length, roundness on the close, which is successful. Decant it. “The challenge was to have an aftertaste that was more fine than droopy, to get that freshness,” X Gérard. 14.5°. Bottled 25 Aug 2018. €27. From spring 2019. 2028-29 Dec 2018

2016

yellow robe, a touch of pear. There is inner ripeness, strength on the nose, which has a subdued, pear aroma, is pretty classic, if not out and about as yet. There’s a wee peach air. The palate holds a calm, rather thick gras richness, is solid without being static, but has a red wine profile, and will benefit from more time, decanting, and will then require white meats, full fish such as halibut, turbot. Pear, pear skin, white strawberry mingle on the finish, where it shows tannin. It has STGT definition, is a true, quietly muscular Châtillon. The length is good, thorough. 14.5°. From mid-2018. 2023-25 Dec 2017

2015 ()

1) (600-litre cask, the first harvesting on 28 Aug) **** yellow robe. Has a cool aroma led by pear, a nudge of apricot. It has style and is well founded. The palate has tension and grip, is a safe medium weight Condrieu. The outer casing is firm, and there is deep gras inside it, has a lot of heart. 10 years. 2) (600-litre cask, the second harvesting on 5 Sept) ****(*) yellow robe. The nose is more solid than the previous Châtillon, the first harvested – it shows oak, honey, apricot. The palate bears bright fruit, is open, has the body for Vieille France, sauced cuisine, is good and persistent. The exit is spiced. 11 years. “Fermentation lasted five weeks this year – meaning increased aroma, complexity and great length,” Xavier Gérard. Oct 2015

2014 ()

yellow robe. The nose is rather flamboyant, has airs of brioche and apricot, cooked pear, flan, wee saltiness – it is wide and bountiful. The palate sets off with pace, gives a good delivery of peach and nectarine fruit with dentelle, fresh detail. This is a good collective between gras and drops of freshness. It persists very well, ending on salted, nutty moments. A wine of character and nuance. 14°. 4,900 b. 2023-24  Oct 2015

2013 ()

yellow colour. The bouquet gives a quince paté, apricot juice, rather plump aroma, along with peach, aniseed and flowers. It is neat overall, and is varying now. The palate starts richly, is fat, but always keeps moving, has a nudge of nutty grip, also saline clarity. There is a little darkness, near tar, on the finish. Suited to la table – asparagus, cheese such as rigottes de Condrieu, pike and fresh water fish. “Flowering was difficult, with temperatures down to 5-6°C in the first ten days of May; we lost 50% of the crop,” Xavier Gérard. To 2021  Oct 2015

2012

(sugars ended) pretty ample nose, has fat in it. The palate runs well, builds up gras as it goes. Decent length. An aromatic year, has sound balance, shows flowers, soft fruit and cut. 2021-22. “It has enough acidity to still be fresh post malo,” Xavier Gérard.  Oct 2012

2011 ()

bottled one month ago: soft yellow. The bouquet is potentially attractive and refined; pear leads a waxen note for now, and there is variety to come, but not in a flamboyant way. There is an underair of brioche, baked tart, honeysuckle, so the total effect is open and airborne, graceful. There is good grain in the pear flavour – this is STGT, very typical Châtillon which has cut, is nicely decisive. The acidity is appealing, works well. It drinks and ends clearly, with a measured roundness. It will be longer and more expressive from spring 2013. This can live. There is a fine step finish, a light tread there. “20 years of life,” Xavier Gérard. 14°. 2024-26  Oct 2012

2010

oily yellow robe; big, brewed nose – “big” is the main word, has a waxy, pear tart air, hazelnut – the nose is concentrated and curved. The palate has a striking start, shows coated white fruits, is gourmand, fat, rich and concentrated, delivers lots of pastille fruit late on, apricot and peach with banana and pineapple notes. Suited to big flavour foods – lobster à la crème, and with all the glycerol in the wine, warm foie gras, sweetbreads, ris de veau, Condrieu rigottes cheese. Wait for this, decant, from 2015. It is more robust, grounded than the 2011, although there is some clarity within its mass. 2024-26. “We had three days of South Wind around 4 September, which brought sand like a beach, so the grapes dried very, very fast. The result was high degree, concentrated sugars acidity and perfumes; its minerality can come back in 10 years,” Xavier Gérard.  Oct 2012

2007

flinty robe. Fine aroma – pear, spring flowers, hazelnut. The palate starts fully, just holds down its power. A big wine, runs in a solid, closed manner at the finish. Needs food. 14.5°. To 2011. Dec 2009 Previously Jan 2008 *** (22 hl barrel sample) the malo half completed on this: mid-yellow colour; pear aroma with some richness and spice but has a malic air from its malo in progress. Quite refined richness on the palate within the wine, the length is fair. (580-litre sample) the malo completed: clear-toned nose with a mineral crispness present, honey with a bright air to it. Has a pear-pear skin flavour that is nice and lucid. Gets a bit pesky late on – at the end you notice the 15° plus or so. A big wine. I like it most of the way. Good with goat cheese, foie gras or sauced fish for its glycerol. Jan 2008

2006 ()

pear, apricot, tangy nose, with a little butter and caramel, too: this bouquet is broad and offers more to come, since it is still reserved. The palate is well-woven, holds good power, and there is an ensemble between its matter and its puissance. The length is good, it grips well and there is more to come. Authentic wine of good style. 2012-13 Jan 2008

2004

round, fat aroma. pear and sizzled butter start to the palate; this plugs on well, is nicely structured. Has more stuffing than in the past. 2010. Dec 2006

2002

light, toasted/spiced pear aroma. Licorice, chewy, light spice on palate - not very full.