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The Wines

75% Grenache (1956-60), 20-25% Syrah (1970s), 3-5% Carignan (1956) on clay-limestone soils at 500+ metres, pre-fermentation crop cooling, 3-4 week vinification at 25-26°C, manual cap punchings only, aged 5-8 year 228-litre oak casks 6 months, the special cuvée, unfined, unfiltered, 5,000 b


has a filled up dark red robe. The nose gives an aroma of brewed fruits, with a soaked red cherries air; it has a fresh, directly assertive nature, has a pocket or two of mystery, and a note of licorice. The palate presents lithe red stone fruit with a denetlle quality through it, and fine grain tannin as it ends. This drinks with a pebbly texture in play after half way, and red fruit of cool zones at its centre. It builds some glow on the finish. This has character, isn’t a mainstream Côtes du Rhône, and is much better than the first bottle – it is more cohesive and together. The texture is completely different from a grounded wine from a place such as the Plan de Dieu. A sour side develops after one hour open. 13°. 2019-20  Jun 2015 Previously Feb 2015 No Rating This is a strange affair. It became sour after some air, and that continued on Day 2. After 75 minutes there were Volatile Acidity notes as well. The crop was a tiny 18 hl/ha this year. The first portents were good, however: the robe is dark, full. The nose is mysterious, broad, has brewed loganberry airs, comes with a note of eau de vie and varnish-pine. The palate has a meaty, full constitution; the black fruit is infused with herbs, and a line of menthol clarity. It has an unusual composition: the oak comes through, but the fruit is notably cool, more like blueberry, and the oiliness of the south also plays a role. Hence it is Nord-Sud wine. The oak is pretty well integrated. Another bottle needs tasting. 13°. Feb 2015

2012 ()

quite a full red, clear and dark. The bouquet offers mineral blueberry fruit, the real lucidity of altitude, nutshells. What a clear strike on the palate – off we go! This is mountain wine, has a lovely clarity and a w.o.w. drinkability, and also the depth for drinking with red meats. This is a Rocker, also STGT, the fruit lovely and striking. I give it ***(*) as a coup de coeur, a wine of the heart. 13.5°. 75% Gren, 22% Syr, 3% Carignan this year. Bottled just three weeks ago. €11.50 at the cellars. “It can live for 15 years,” Raphaël Gonzales. 2022-23  Oct 2013

2007 ()

sober, dark robe. Rather hang-dog fruit with paint stripper, high tone behind that first aroma. There is also a high tone effect on the palate – the sides are dry, and the flavour not relaxed. Pebbly aftertaste, veering towards the dry. DECANTED to see what happens: still has a reduction, gummy air – the aroma is low profile. There is a quiet layering of raspberry fruit, and better solidarity between its elements. The finale has become secure, almost in a Mourvèdre style. This must be decanted. Some potential. 15°. 50% Gren, 45% Syr, 5% Carignan this year. 2012-13 March 2009