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The Wines

62-70% Grenache (early 1900s), 10-24% Mourvèdre (late 1960s), 11-20% Syrah (1972, 1985, Sérine from Clusel-Roch at Côte-Rôtie) from clay, sand soils on Les Terrasses de l’Aygues near village, destemmed, natural yeasts only, 2-3 week concrete vat vinification, 1-2 pumping overs, marc is immersed, concrete vat raised 7-10 months, then aged 2-3-4 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, unfined, unfiltered, 5,000-11,000 b & 80 magnums

2019

(vat) dark red; firm nose, peppery, compact, promising, beef notes. The palate gives a good coursing of red fruits with strength and freshness. The finish is well clustered. It holds well, is thorough, with decent balance, even with the inner strength of the hot year. 2038-40 Feb 2020

2018 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – WINE INTO TRADITION CUVÉE

2017 ()

smoky, red cherries aroma, raspberry fruit. The palate gives a good Grenache presence, then takes off on a forceful run into a baked, stoked up finish. It’s not as one; I prefer the attack to what comes later. From 2022, decant. 2032-34 Feb 2020 Previously March 2019 ****(*) (casks) dark red; the bouquet is lying low, sits on a sure couch of smoky, dark berry fruit, a hint of prune and an artful shimmer of musky flowers. The palate is sturdy on the attack, bears roasted flavours, cassis and plum fruits with inner charge of strength, gaining in assertion as it goes. The finish is extended. Decanting required, and leave until 2021. This is genuine, hearty Cairanne, a good expression of place and vintage, with a lot going on. The tannins are robust, and require time. I give it marks for character. 14.5°. 3,600 b. 65% Gren, 18% Syr, 17% Mourv. From spring 2021. 2035-37 Mar 2019

2016 ()

dark red; prune, mulberry airs, a genuine oiliness du Sud, soaking in the fruits. The palate is weighted, full, carries a sturdy content, pushes into a resolute close with notes of degree there, along with menthol notes: the attack beats the finish here. It’s a forceful, of hot plains, country wine, for winter stews. From 2022. 2031-33 Feb 2020 Previously Mar 2019 ****(*) (casks) full red colour; the nose gives airs of cedar, pine needles, with oily, brewed red fruits, plums, notes of roasting, grilling. It’s an adventurous rather than safe start. The palate delivers rolling red-fruited, spiced matter, unbridled tannins that criss-cross it, shows energy. This is an Hautes Cances style of Cairanne [tasted blind], with heart on its sleeve vigour, a touch of noble Volatile. The Grenache heart provides its spiced, cooked plums central flavour. There’s a lot in the glass from this robust wine of character. 14.5°. 6,650 b. 70% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv. From 2021. 2036-38 Mar 2019

2015 ()

(cask) shiny, quite dark red robe. The bouquet gives an expressive air of Grenache fruit, notably plum with a ripe front to it, a sweet appeal. There is a hint of darker blackberry fruit. The palate is tight, reserved, bears solid content with fine but insistent tannins. It has complexity, and will need time to show its hand. The attack points to its red fruit, noble origin, suggestive of old vines in the calm authority of the juice. Quality by stealth here. 14.5°. 9,000 b. 65% Gren, 18% Sérine, 17% Mourv. Cairanne cru, not Villages wine. From 2019. 2026-28  May 2016

2014

(casks) dark red robe. The nose gives herbes de Provence with a splash of licorice and mint. It is well channelled. The palate holds overtly spiced red fruits with local colour and a good inclusion of live, rather rocky tannin as it ends. The length is well sustained, the finish broad. I like its abundance. 14.5°. 8,900 b. From mid-2018. 2025-26  May 2016  Previously Apr 2015 ***(*) (casks) full, dark red; reduction is present on the nose, which bears mulled dark berry/cherry fruit with a roasted angle and a spot of rosemary. The attack is savoury, the fruit sleek, lissom and enjoyable. Good length, plenty of w.o.w. potential here. It is tasty and accessible. From late 2015. 62% Gren, 19% Sérine, 19% Mourv. 11,000 b. 2019-20 April 2015

2013

(cask) quite a dark red colour. Has a live, 2013 style aroma, led by pepper, green pepper above red fruits. The palate is similar, with the pepper a continuing theme. It seems less ripe than some, but it drinks easily now. There is a small spot of red berry, garden fruit, on the finish. 65% Gren, 17.5% Syrah, 17.5% Mourvèdre. 6,200 b. 2022-24  April 2015

2012 ()

dark, shiny robe; nutty, black raisin and sweet notes that are enjoyable and easy to appreciate front the bouquet, with black berry fruit inside it. The nose is grilled, quite big, has definite darkness about it. The palate is big, still raw and exerted, but has a sound heart of fluid black fruits, some tasty richness, especially on the aftertaste. Dates, mocha and menthol are involved there, its fullness well prolonged. Lots to fill the glass here – it is really long. It may be raw, but it gets away with its strong tackling defender profile. Just give it time. 14.5°. €7.60 ex cellars. 6,000 b. 64% Gren, 19% Mourv, 17% Syr this year. From mid 2015. 2026-28 Oct 2013

2010

intense, dark robe – it looks deep. Has a thickly layered black fruit aroma that is compact and potentially wide, features prune and blackberry. The palate offers a creamy black fruit flavour, with a little juicy freedom after half way. Tannins build up on the finish, and it ends young and squarely. It avoids the feel of extraction, and in its own right is wide, a big palate filler that is chunky but still fresh on the end, where cool blackberry fruit comes forward. Decant this. From mid-2013. I find the fruit very attractive. 68% Gren, 19% Mourv, 13% Syrah this year. €7.20. 2019-20 April 2012

2009

70% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 13% Mourvèdre this year: sleek, pretty red colour; polished fruit aroma with red cherry in the lead. Has modern clarity on the palate – good red fruit with drive along it towards the finish. has fibre and good tension in it. It finishes clearly. I note Syrah here. It is a bit stiff for now, so wait until late 2011. 2024-26 Sept 2010

2007

full, dark red. Has a black cherry aroma – compact black fruits, and also biscuity, almost nougat in the air: it is all as one, and not yet really open. The palate leads with ripe black cherry fruit; there is quite a rich inlay – raisin, chocolate notes are present. The fruit is clean, the texture squeezy, and it grips well late on. Expressive fruit and length, a wine that shows well now, but it can improve a notch or two. From autumn 2009. 2022-24 Feb 2009

2004 ()

ripe red robe, legs down the glass. Broad, baked, solid aroma with big shoulders. This is a full wine with a little of the downhome about it – old oak casks; it is big and persistent, but never over-imposing – indeed it has a natural authority. There is quiet display of oily, agreeable richness towards the finish, with a prune taste finishing the journey. A wine for lovers of traditional, genuine wine. 14.5°. To 2019-21 Sept 2009 5,500 b this year