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The Wines

80% Grenache (1950s) from Sorgues (S-E), 20% Mourvèdre (1970s-1980s) purchased crop, 1993-2004 was 100% Grenache from Pignan, aged 1-2 year oak casks 12-18 months, unfined, unfiltered, name since early 2010s is Secret de Léonce, 4,000 b

2011

dark red; blackberry aroma with a touch of sweetness – this is a supple bouquet of nice depth, has licorice notes. The palate holds comfortable fruit – this represents a ride in a well upholstered 3-litre saloon car. The tannins are round. This is likely to evolve quite quickly; the fruit is ripe, the acidity quite low. It is wine in the here and now, tasting of black fruit pastilles with a tea-mocha note at the end. From mid-2014. 14.5°. 2024-25  Dec 2012

2010 ()

fairly dark, rather sombre robe. The nose is wide and stiff – shows crunchy, oaked black fruit, along with smoke and licorice. The palate is tight, oaked, reserved. The shape is upright, structured – a hands-off wine for now. It ends on a tight, somewhat cellary-like note, the fruit taut, and intervention rather than the vineyard in mind. Decant this. From mid-2014. 2026-27 Dec 2011

2007 ()

firm, quite dark red; interesting bouquet – has a red fruit or raspberry core, with floral, baked stones touches. Has a ripe raspberry jam, red jelly flavour, all close-knit, is sweet throughout. Not yet given to nuances, but there are some herbal moments on the finish, which shows orderly, largely ripe tannins, leaving a rich, raisin finale. Plenty here, a wine of character. Good length, drink from late 2010. 2019-21 Nov 2008

2006

full red, dark traces; measured, reserved red fruits nose with a bonny, poised fruit curve, a hint of the raspberry eau de vie. Has a compact, wide-shouldered palate, with its fruit freeing up towards the finish, in favour of more robust, wired elements – notably alcohol and power. That power is never far away on the palate, and more flesh would be welcome to go with it. From 2010. 14.5°. 2018-19 Nov 2008

2005 ()

steady, largely full red; raisin, railway cake aroma that is wide, rather sweet, and promises to develop variety – it is a good, complete package. Has a robust, honest start to the palate – the rugby player in a glass – lots of straightforward depth and muscle. Well woven tannins lend end punch – this is authentic of its vintage, and is showing good local feel as it matures, the oak being the agent that softens the finish, providing a smooth couch. From 2010 for more variety, but the length is good and this has local feel. 14.5°. 2019-20 Nov 2008 Previously Nov 2006 ***(*) full Grenache red colour; red fruit, plum, baked tart in a full nose, is herbal and shows some weighty, quite sweet black fruit with pepper. Sappy, squeezy flavour of black fruits, and ends with prune and toast from the oak. There is a little lightening up of the décor right at the end, giving way to a floral, red fruits aftertaste. 2009 on. 2019-22 Nov 2006

2004 ()

clear, Grenache red colour; spiced, a little dusty, reserved aroma – holds a red jam air with some mystery, as if the spices are waiting to get out. The palate is steady in its reserved Grenache flavour, with a couch of tannin bringing some dryness. Not 100% clean for some reason. Doesn`t really extend on the finish. Try in 2008. 2015-16 Oct 2006