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The Wines

80% Roussanne (1940s, 1958-60), 15% Grenache blanc (1940s), 5% Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picpoul, Picardin, fermented and raised apart, 65% in vat, 35% in 2-3 year oak 9 months, then 1 month in tank, then bottled, 15-20,000 b

2018

full yellow, gold tinted robe; the bouquet is reserved, but expresses ripeness, a white raisin presence, with infused tea such as tilleul or linden. It has a brioche, glazed brown sugar backing. The palate is rich, measured, pretty dense, moves steadily rather than flows. It’s broad and sustained, the finish aided by a notion of minted, aniseed clarity. This makes no pretence that it’s anything other than a rather stately wine for la table, and best if left into its second phase, since it is closed, and only partly going, now. From 2026, therefore. 2040-43 Oct 2019

2017 ()

rather sturdy yellow colour; the bouquet has presence, an immediate signature of class, elegance, shows white peach, infused tea such as camomile, and a ripe, grapey note. The attack is stylish, sets off well, with a peach flavour, touches of grapefruit freshness developing towards the close, where there is aniseed, cut. This is very well produced given the drought and heat of the year, with a bright countenance and successful, still rather chewy, length. There’s plenty of southern juice in it. Drink now, with a shutdown likely at three-four years. Its richness can allow life towards 2036-39 Oct 2018

2016 ()

fine yellow colour. Ripe pear, with apricot, and a pinpoint of quince-salt show on the nose, which is reserved, comes with potential. There is light oak toast. The palate is juicy, stylish, bears New Wave finesse and deliberate restraint with a highly commendable fresh close, a real dance, is light on its feet. The second half is great, the length good and fine. It has good balance, and the close is neat. Drink now, or from 2021. 2028-30 Oct 2017

2015

shiny, rich yellow robe. Elder flower, white peach aroma with a sub text of mandarin, saltiness, some roasted peanut. It’s a stylish start. The palate is compact, reserved for now, holds trim white fruits, has a floral influence as well. It’s long without being obvious, has a tip-toe approach. Both the attack and the aftertaste are discreetly fresh. It’s a relatively delicate year, even taking into account some late glow. Decanting a good move. 14°. Drink from 2018. 2029-31 Sept 2016 GB £225 6 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  GB/HK £225 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com

2014

full burnished yellow robe. The nose evokes the Mediterranean, via white raisin, peach-nectarine aroma with hints of wild thyme. The palate is fat, cautious, perhaps in transition now. The texture is lissom, and there are notes of camomile with a peach-plum flavour. The aftertaste is low-key, delicate. It has steady length. I would wait until 2019 with this now. Decant it. 2028-30 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 **** quite a full yellow robe. The nose is full of pear fruit, white strawberry, has a glistening fatness, airs of Melba, very thin toast and a curl of aniseed that helps to brighten it. The palate moves with a serene fatness, is oily and smoothly textured. It picks up some increased depth and grip on the quietly wide finish. This is wine that is never in a hurry, and its overt fat will allow drinking with sauced dishes, Vieille France cuisine, sweetbreads, veal. 2028-30 GB £210/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale colour. This has a first air of wax and oak-vanilla, has a latent depth, and breathes a quiet southern intensity, has plenty of scope, and even a floral, buttercup angle. Notes of butter and greengage plum are wrapped up elegantly. This has a firm spine, the white stone fruit is stylish. Plenty of grip and very good length. A slow developer – this will prove to be a very good vintage in time. GB £249/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  £450 12/b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2034-36 Nov 2014

2012

pale yellow. Upscale ripeness leads to an under aroma that is round, glistening with fat, while the top note is still on oak toast, nut, traces of apricot and liquid honey – overall, a pretty wide bouquet. The palate is measured just now, the attack mild; then it builds suddenly after half way, ending on a chewy, more intense marmalade, live flavour. A fine thread of acidity runs through it. This is not a big hitter, but has reserves for the future, and its development. The finale reflects a tone of vanilla from its raising. Just bottled two weeks ago, so that plays a role. Quite a lot here intrinsically, and will fill the glass well. The length is there, discreetly so. 2027-29  Oct 2013

2011

mild yellow; notable wax aroma, with honey, pear some buttery fat – there is a reserved intensity about the nose. The palate emphasizes elegance over power. The flavour is of dried fruits with a note of coconut and banana inside. It ends on a minor show of tannic grip – there is a nut flavour, and traces of power and southern strength there. No Show Biz here – a wine that is subdued post-bottling, but isn’t flashy, either. From autumn 2013, will give early pleasure before spreading a more varied tableau. 2026-28  Oct 2012  

2010

mild yellow, legs down the glass. Cooked fruits, fruit tart , light bonbon air with a spicy poise. Butter, ripe lime, light banana, has silex, flint top airs that contribute pep. The palate grips well, has deep-seated gras richness and a real good consecutive flow, a steady, smooth run to the finish. Has fine tannin and grip on the aftertaste, and a lightly salty 2010 Roussanne sign-off. Elegant, unhurried wine which possesses good subtleties and detail. There is cut, an aniseed note on the finish. As it ages, it will retain a core of richness. From mid-2012, and it may pause around 2014 or so, then come back from 2018 on. 2028-30 Nov 2011

2009 ()

legs down glass, pale yellow robe. Vanilla pod, bergamot, mandarin peel air – it spreads across the glass nicely. The palate is similar, has that citrus angle, the fruits cooked. Has a supple texture, implies low acidity. There are peach notes towards the finish, an attractive roundness, a bit nutty also, just a touch of bitter. Bottled 6 weeks ago. Can go well. 2023-25 March 2011

2008 ()

pale yellow with glints in its tone. Refined nose – traces of oak, vanilla pod, white fruits, hazelnut and given style by honeysuckle airs. Enjoyable debut to the palate, offers a bonny ball of fruit which extends into a more direct, grippy finish where there is southern glow. Can be drunk now, but will very likely close up in 1 year. “It is salted in nature,” François Perrin. 2023-26 June 2010

2007

steady, low-key yellow. Hazelnut leads the bouquet, with peach airs – the aroma is full, but graceful, shows a brown sugar, buttery side, too. The start is tasty – Drink Me! There is a supple richness, and poised flow, along the palate – the texture is smooth. The length is good. A string quartet wine – soft music in the air. Really bonny and fine wine. 13.9°. Bottled end June 2008. 2021-24 Nov 2008

2006 ()

some yellow in the robe; liquid honey, with some spice and citrus, tangerine and pear notes on the bouquet, and a wee marzipan air: this prolongs well. Immediately fat and round, with ripe flavouring and texture on the palate. Comes very much in the ripe fruit mould, is a wine of southern warmth and roundness, and is marked by ripe Roussanne which is very successful this year. There is some good, little late clarity, with acidity and a hint of pepper, bringing some late grip. Comes in an obvious style this year. 2020-23 Nov 2007

2005

yellow robe; softly melted butter nose, is primary and not offering much aromatic variety today. There is a little honey and beeswax here now. Has a tasty attack, the flavour is of cooked fruits, including banana, and an alluring sweet tone runs through it. Is very harmonious. There is sound grip on the finish, which ends in a tidy way, with a gentle close down on the finish: the length is good. Has a lot of early charm; is less opulent than the 2006. Very typical touch of Roussanne saltiness on the aftertaste. 2020-22 Nov 2007 Previously Dec 2006 **** refined, but latent power in the nose, with peach and apricot and spring flowers. Quite a rich start to palate, always bordered by some mineral. Late on acidity here, with quite a punchy, salted finale. Well directed wine, with a salty aftertaste. “Drink now for about 2 to 3 years to enjoy its floral character, then leave it until around 2012-13,” F.Perrin 2021-23 Dec 2006 Previously Nov 2006, London ***(*) crisp, straight and open appeal on the nose, with fennel traces; is quite a wide aroma. White stone fruits on the palate, with some flan to underpin its richness. Sound length, has good, wide late palate appeal. Is structured, and can certainly evolve well. Is quite chunky in its way, which is no surprise given the vintage. Bottled October 2006. 2021-24 Nov 2006, London

2004 ()

hazelnut, butter and a bit of sherry and flowers in the bouquet. The palate is turned in on itself, is rather dumb. The texture is elegant, and it is nutty towards the finish, resembling the Roussanne correctly, also with its salted, mineral touch. Dried fruits and a little banana in the flavour now. The saltiness plays the role of helping out the acidity, and contributes a good end grip. “I expect this to stay like this for a few years, and then advance again,” F.Perrin. 2019-22 Dec 2006 Previously June 2006 ****(*) banana, lime, refined nose with toast and salty hints. The palate is refined, has a gossamer touch, but is also direct and clear. It is still young and unfurnished on the palate. The length is good, the finale decisive and clear-cut. “I find a little fennel in this,” Pierre Perrin. 2022-24 June 2006 Previously March 2005 (cask) the Roussanne: ripe fruit, honey styled bouquet. Rich, broad palate, brown sugar flavour, length is good, shows a fig aftertaste. March 2005

2003

yellow robe; golden sugar, baked pear, flan aroma. Dried fruits on palate, nutty, dry and mature wine. Works on the glycerol above all. Peachy, almost a red fruits finale, also butterscotch, that vintage imprint again. 2016-18 March 2005

2000

ample, overt nose with rounded, ripe fruit present. The palate delivers good white fruit with a tender edge. The finish reflects melted butter. Sympa, full and southern white wine, with very good length and a sense of butterscotch in the flavour. “It has been open like this since the start, but expect it to tighten up,” François Perrin. 2016-19 Nov 2002 Previously May 2001 **** very rich, very vintage 2000 on the nose, with a mixture of fat aroma and some menthol. The palate is also very rich and plump. There is a lot of matter here. Its malo was not completed this year, so it may rock on better in time. A little flourish of alcohol on the finish. Bottled 3 weeks ago. 2012-14 “Its fatness is maybe like that of 1990,” Jean-Pierre Perrin. 10% new oak this year, 30% oak altogether. May 2001

1999 ()

good depth of aroma in an elegant, charming bouquet, some oak influence apparent: is at quite a discreet moment. The palate is rather hidden right now; attack suggests good fruit. Overall, is charming, stylish wine. Tender and classy. Very good around 2004. 2014-17 Nov 2000

1998

bright, bold yellow; acacia, vanilla aroma that is very ample and broad – shows a little crème patisserie, then after 10 minutes along come white truffles and damp woods. After 1 hour, marmalade and spice show – there is great variety of aroma. The attack is broad, with good, clear sides. At first, it tapers a little towards an alcohol mark at the end, where there is less fruit. Then it revives and rolls with a richer finale, its length well achieved. Beautiful late acidity and length, with vanilla present (that 20% new oak still hanging around?). A fascinating, diverse wine. 2019-21 Dec 2007 Previously Nov 2000 ***(*) rich, dried fruits bouquet with a solid air to it; its oak is still integrating. Suave, stylish palate. Is more square in shape than the 1999, and ends firmly. 20% of the Roussanne new-oak fermented and raised. 2010-13 Nov 2000

1995 ()

bottled Aug 1996: yellow robe; the nose is marked by a honeyed aroma, white fruits and flowers in support, is charming. The palate is very dense, has a lovely style, good length. Its fullness is confirmed and shapely, and it shows what white Rhônes can do – mixing depth and elegance. There is a final note of apricot. “I would want to eat dishes with plenty of flavours with this, so Mediterranean cooking,” Jean-Pierre Perrin; “this can live easily for 18 years,” François Perrin. In these days 20-25% of the total wine was cask fermented, only Roussanne, with yields around 26 hl/ha, and there could be some new oak used in that proportion. 2016-19  Oct 1996

1994

the robe is less full yellow than the 1995’s. Sunny, ripe air, with dried white fruit skins, nuts present also. The palate is tender, led by an elegant attack. However, there is poised richness in behind, in what is a very fine, very good wine. It has greater style than the 1995 with its overt fullness, and has a tremendous finish. There is a lot of lovely matter in this, great width and a juicy texture. “1994 was a colder year, so there is greater elegance in the whites compared to 1995,” François Perrin. 2016-19  Oct 1996

1990 ()

quite a firm yellow colour. The nose is reticent, lacks clear fruit for now, can develop. The palate is tasty enough, comes with decent ripenesss, leads into a warm finale. This isn't all as one yet, and also shows some of the inner power of this ripe vintage. Table wine, best in its second phase, so wait until 1998 or so. 2010-13 Dec 1991, London

1983 ()

firm yellow robe; the nose is rounded, assured, shows lime fruit that is ripe. Peach fruit flavour leads the palate – it is very rich, has lovely balance and a good, clean finish. The fullness on the palate is notable, and very wide. 2002-05 June 1986

1980

yellowed robe, nice lustre. This has a quite full lime scent, gentle aromas that are still well together. The flavour resembles the skin of white fruits, is full and round, handles goats cheese comfortably. The later stage flavour is a marked preach. Good style and southern warmth, has a very clean, well prolonged finish. 2010-13 Oct 1996 Previously Dec 1991 ***** this holds 40% Grenache blanc: the robe is attractive, rather pale, looks young. The bouquet offers ripe fruit, is discreetly on show, fine and complex. The attack is lovely, has great roundness, is very fine. Excellent balance and finesse here, good length into the finish, a clean sign-off. This is lovely now, impressive. 2005-08 Dec 1991, London

1962

this is 60% Grenache blanc, 30% Roussanne, 10% Clairette blanche, Bourboulenc, Picardan [by 1980 it was 65% Roussanne]. It has a ripe, old gold colour. The nose changes radically with air - snap your fingers, and it has moved. There are dried fruits, pressed flowers, nuts. Alcohol emerges, is unmasked on the nose, as it airs. The palate has good, ripe flavours [the harvest was brought in extremely ripe in 1962]. It runs on to a pretty persistent finish. This started out fresh, well-balanced and rounded. There is a lovely saltiness, tang, on the finish - it is delicate with a crayfish sauce in thyme,  and excellent with the saucisse of guinea fowl at Menage a Trois in London. Dec 1991