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The Wines

100% Roussanne (1914) from 3 hectares, yields 15-17 hl/ha, fermented, raised 33-50% vat, 33-50% new and 1-year oak, assembled after 6 months, bottled after 12 months, first wine 1986, 5-8,000 b

2018

full yellow robe, gleams in the glass. The noose is typically Roussanne in its early, juvenile offer of exotic fruits, pineapple with a dash of elegant crabapple. There is very neat saltiness within. The palate has the most stylish, silken content and texture, flavours of dried fruits, peach stone, apricot. It carries its weight effortlessly, is a wholesome, pedigree wine, mystery on board. It has detail and complexity. It can be drunk now, but one is only tapping at its front door. Decant, serve ibn a large glass, sit back and enjoy the luxury ride. From 2025. 2045-48 Oct 2019

2017 ()

full yellow robe; the nose has a serene depth, dried fruits, inner richness, a prolonged sense of the ripe nature of the year, apricot, some citrus touches, with oak toasting. The palate is full, grounded, has the strength of the vintage, some kick hovering under the surface, the second half very profound. This is a big, vivid Roussanne VV, one for the longer-term, and well up to sauced dishes, bold flavours. It has a rich, gummy, still slightly square sign-off. This is more concentrated than the classic 2017, carries more ground force, deep roots, with it. From 2020, or leap ahead to 2027-28. 2041-43 Oct 2018

2016

fine yellow colour, legs visible. There is quiet intensity on the nose – peach, nectarine, with some gunflint, cooked lemon. It breathes the vinosity of old vines accurately. It’s wide and not showy. The palate is well enclosed with stylish gras richness, all very orderly, and extending with stealthy depth. The texture is oily, belle, and the finish produces suave gras with discreetly firm edges. I would skip its first youth. It holds fine and concentrated juice on the late stages. The balance is good. From 2021. 2031-33 Oct 2017

2015

yellow robe. The bouquet is fat, sturdily filled with ripe white fruits, cooked pear, flan, a notion of ginger. The palate is attractive, supremely elegant, coasts along on a caressing texture. It’s a true orb from the south, has the effortless sap and elegance of old vines. It’s en finesse on its very long, rounded finish, where there is a note of glow. Up there as a Grand Vin, one for the thinkers. 14.5°. From mid-2017, expect a close-down, then a more complex revival. 2033-35  Sept 2016 GB £220 3 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com GB/HK £220 3 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com

2014

the robe is a full yellow. The nose isn’t yet defined, but has a persistent depth, a sturdy trail of potential. Almond paste, some white raisin show, with a honeysuckle air. The palate combines discreet salting with a wavy fat, gets up close and personal in a refined way. Not an obvious wine at all: tuck it away, drink from 2021, serve in a large glass. It holds fine acidity, good detail if you pause and reflect. 13.5°. 2032-35 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ***** yellow robe, legs visible. The nose is full of potential, aided by a mix of salty freshness and a deep-seated apricot, peach, dried fruits, hazelnut combination. The palate has an effortless elegance, is very much a rounded southern wine with pedigree foundations. The length is marked by a salty, licorice graininess, and increased freshness on the finish. Its ace card is the lingering, quiet tread, of its finish. It will probably amplify, then close, and then become more complex. From 2022-23 in that case. 2034-36 GB £375/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2013

yellow, shiny robe. Soaked pear, banana aromas  - a nose that isn’t quite plush, but is generous, and also trails a little finesse; it prolongs well, with style. The palate is adorned by a firm apricot, dried fruits flavour, with steel and some tannin underpinning it. This is seriously structured, is broad and long, and will age much like a red wine, with a period of closing down. This is up there as one of the best Vieilles Vignes from Beaucastel – it combines freshness with complete matter, a touch of tangerine and nut as it ends. Best to swerve this during its youth, I feel. Take your time with it. From 2022. 2038-40 GB £399/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012

healthy yellow colour. The nose is really broad, has capacity – serve this in a large glass. Has a salty, smoky, dried fruits air, fig and apricot present, with agreeable nut under that. It is bigger, fatter and more striking than the classic 2012 white. The palate revolves around a smooth texture and fluid richness that sustains well into an effortless finish. Oak shows, but the matter goes hand in hand with it, while the finale is a little bitter for now. This extols stylish fat. It would be very pleasing to drink with the best fish and lobster. Similar to which vintage, I wonder: 1982?  1990 perhaps for François Perrin. It has a sunny year’s profile, but is aided by modern ways of cellar work to help it. It travels widely across the palate, and its gras will keep it going. Drink over two years, then forget it until it is then 10 to 12 years’ old. 2034-36  Oct 2013

2011

yellow with apricot colour. The bouquet shows big promise – pear jam with a ginger-spice tone, an orange marmalade richness, coconut. This is heading towards interesting variety, gives a typical drift of Roussanne salt. The palate is shaped Ω like a Greek omega = it starts tenderly, builds intensity, then ends smoothly. The initial flavour is a soaked fruits salad with white raisin, follows up on cooked citrus fruits, vanilla, camomile tea. A rolled up ball of wine; I find the 2012 more persistent and well spread, even if this is wondering where to go next, pre-shutdown. It bears the fat of 2011, could have greater freshness. Notes of brioche plus flan show on the finish. 2029-31  Oct 2013

2010

attractive, quite bright yellow with legs down the glass and a rich look. Savoury, rounded nose – the classic white 2010 has more obvious snap and flint. The aroma is founded around gently cooked banana, peach and nut, ripe lime juice airs. The palate has a velvet texture, is greatly smooth along it. It creeps quietly forward – no hurry, no false moves. It ends on supple, round gras with a little peanut-nut influence. Very young, not varied at all. Serene, well-balanced, that shows a little grouping of late tannin, a flinty intensity. Destined for fine dishes – high quality fish, fleshy fish such as monkfish, or sea bass with a bit more bite, tang. From late 2012 will please for a year or two, then leave it till 2019-20. Very stylish, measured, symphonic wine with buttery final stages. You must wait if you want more variety – it will be a pity to drink this in its youth in effect. 2036-38 Nov 2011

2009

pale yellow, citrus colour. Pineapple-guava front air – zap – but there is a discreet roll of fat behind that. This circulates well, also has lime and butter showing within, in light touch moments. This bouquet has delightful quality, is very, very refined and complex. After one hour, lime and acacia flowers, also vanilla, come through. Good, generous start to the palate, before a fine line of tannin, a dorsal run appears. It widens, but is still en jeunesse, on its prime youth. It drinks well now, but that is to barely tap into its resources. Gras appears before the finish, then the oak straightens it. Classy wine, that gives the true stamp of its vineyard. Grand Vin, STGT. After one hour-plus, the palate becomes more overtly unctuous, has an apricot skin flavour, is always fine, fine wine. Now to 2013, then wait until around 2020. 14°. “We harvested 18-20 September this year,” Pierre Perrin. 2033-35 Maldives, May 2011 Previously March 2011 ***** yellow robe; sunny, round aroma that bears lavender, a wee salty note. Reserved but promising. The palate has layers of fat, is all very silken, rolls along with smoky notes. It ends comfortably, very set and smooth, has great harmony. Worthy of fine dishes. Bottled 6 weeks ago. Drink around 2011-13. Then wait until say 2018… 2029-32 March 2011

2008 ()

pale yellow, flintstone robe. The bouquet is broad, and really spreads across. It offers a honeyed fullness, has latent depth and power, with a seasoning like a sea breeze with almond behind, and a tangerine or mandarin zest, almost into a fuller Bergamot air. After two hours open, ripe pear pushes to the front. I get the immediate sense that this wine is shutting down: it bears a full gras, but is not very expressive. Its roundness is safe and sound - it carries a dried fruits flavour that has drifts of vanilla in it, with nutty late stages that culminate in a grounded, firm close, a pocket of chew and grip. Hibernation beckons. It is somewhat like a sturdy white Burgundy. Its robust nature is accentuated by air, and it goes well with an egg, quails`egg dish. 14°. 2032-34 Maldives, May 2011 Previously June 2010 ****(*) confirmed yellow, legs down the glass, has a rich aspect. The nose is deep and a bit mysterious, all the better for that: candy, caramel, oak, white flowers, but the fruit not that evident for now. Good balance here – a wide wine whose gras richness is nicely tailored. I find it like a white Hermitage from a rather fat year on the hillside there. The palate is lightly spiced, with the sense of roundness on the finish very accomplished. Needs 1-2 years to call in its harmony, is an aromatic wine in the making. There is matter on the aftertaste – oak, chewiness, almost a tannin present. I find it similar to 1991 – François Perrin agrees. 2028-31 June 2010

2007

yellow traces in the robe; honey and light oak on the early bouquet – the oak renders pineapple, while there is mineral here too, a heightened air of dried apricot, wax and Indian spices. There is an interesting bundle of varied flavours and stimuli on the attack – dried fruits, honey, nuts, white raisin. Has very silken texture, is a classy wine. It ends on the grip, with a salty, slight bitter point which is good. The supple aftertaste reflects white flowers, a pretty leave-behind. From now to 2011, then 2018/20 to 2031, say. “I find it combines richness and freshness, which is a rare combination, also oriental influences,” Marc Perrin. “It has good balance; if the malo had been done, it would have been a bit flat,” François Perrin. Malo not done this year, 14.5°, pH 3.80. Nov 2008

2006 ()

pale gold glints on the robe; baked fruits such as apple on the nose, where there is an extra intensity not apparent on the Trad cuvee. This bouquet is prolonged, with an apricot, barley sugar (an English sweet) and sweet spice air. Ample, rich, almost a New World fatness on this, its axis turns around the gourmandise. Has a mix of baked fruits and honey late on. Overtly fat, ample matter here, with a smooth texture all through. Persists pretty well, has a scented peach aftertaste. It will tick along, but its acidity is not very evident. 2021-23 Nov 2007

2005

quite a full yellow; the 2006 is more opaque. Spiced, ripe pear aroma, reflects stone fruits and has alight flan note and some oak. Rich, savoury start to palate. Is quite broad, and later on dried fruits, and golden raisins appear. Pinches a little towards the finish as it the crop was very ripe, and ends with brown sugar notes. Not that cohesive, and needs tracking for the best moment to drink it. Has receded since I last tasted it. May be a wine for 2011-12 onwards. I sense that the 2006 Roussanne ripening was more easily achieved than in 2005. Maybe to 2021-24 on this showing. Nov 2007 Previously Dec 2006 ***** marked yellow robe; melted butter, spice, white fruits led by pear on the nose. Round, nicely full start: this has real dash and length. Very beau, rich and sustained, and appealing richness that is openly delivered. Buttery towards the end, but still clear there. 2025-28 Dec 2006

2004

ripe fruit aroma, almost in the melon league, plus the salted side of the Roussanne, with pineapple and hazelnut, too: this persists well. Real good width on the palate, the texture is round and elegant, and the wine continues well, showing a little chewiness towards the finish. A mix of honey, raisins, dried fruits and nuts in the flavouring. Gracious, round and harmonious. 2021-23 Dec 2006 Previously June 2006 **** yellow tints in the robe; has a ripe, broad and even aroma, led by melon with some Roussanne saltiness. The palate texture is rich, almost glossy; then it calms and quietens, and is a bit hidden. This is not a powerhouse, but has plenty of richness to amuse drinkers. It is fat and round, with flavours such as flan and melted butter. 2022-24. “It will drink openly for another year, to mid-2007, then some oxidation will come into it stylistically,” François Perrin. June 2006 Previously March 2005 (cask) honeyed, elegant bouquet. Notable finesse at the outset, rolls smoothly along the palate. Rich, no trace of heaviness, good promise here. Rich and oily finale. March 2005

2003 ()

refined and rich bouquet - buttered, coconut, some exotic fruits. Very appealing flavour, has round, suave togetherness, and lasts very well on the palate. Pear flavour shows through at this stage. Great finesse entrenched within its round appeal, and the oaked areas at the end form a coherent part of the wine. 2025-28 March 2005

2002

full, elegant nose, soft brown sugar, caramel, banana, persists well. Palate shows sinew, body, a near tannic dimension, with baked fruits and a salted, clear finish. Less open than the 2003 today. 2022-25 March 2005

2000 ()

pear, nearly an exotic fruits aroma with lacing of oak. The bouquet is very ample, this has a really vast aroma with traces of flowers and spice. Refined start to palate, then along comes the oak. There is always the finesse here, even in a very rich, fat vintage. Delicious taste, though just a bit compote, a bit stewed. A luxury style wine. 2016-20 “We harvested the grapes for this 3 times, as there was just the start of some drying in the grapes (passerillage) and they were losing water. Then we found that the ripening was spread inconsistently across the vineyard, so we picked a second time after 10 days, then 18 days later. The grapes have a touch of over-ripeness this year,” Jean-Pierre Perrin May 2001

1999

tight bouquet, almost some lemon cake, and a marked floral air, too. Fabulous style on the palate. This is very concentrated, with a flowing elegance. Very good, its content is great, its length excellent. 2019-24 “It has more vivacity and a bigger palate than the Tradition white 1999,” F.Perrin. 50% vat fermented, 50% 1-year oak fermented and raised this year, as usual. Nov 2000

1998

good depth in quite a springy nose, shows fruit and not flowers, and is quite fat. There is a nice early life on the palate, but it is more square than the 1999. A bit reserved now, has some spice towards the finish. Stops a little early now, but can develop. 2016-19 “I find this comes in a more modern white wine style this year,” F.Perrin Nov 2000

1997 ()

touch of exotic fruits in the aroma, guava fruit, other white stone fruits, too. Very fat and enduring on the palate, this is very round. Has soaked up its oak, so rich is it. Wonderful fatness and roundedness, all delivered on a large stage. 2015-19 April 1999

1993

nice, full apricot colour that is rich to the eye. The bouquet is a wonderful, varied ride – vanilla, linden (tilleul) , lavender, honey, intense white peach, honeycomb – all cast in a complete, elegant setting. The palate is fresh, and that is its strong impression. It has a supple, flowing texture, and is very, very long. It shows good grip on the finish, is really decisive there. It has menthol and snap in it from the vintage. The aftertaste brings in nut, apricot jam. A highly interesting, compelling wine. 13.5°. Can keep ticking over. 2021-23 July 2012 Previously June 2010 ****(*) the robe has the extraordinary sheen of old Roussanne – this can turn brown, as the 1990 did for a while, then revive back to where it is now – a ripe, rich gold, with apricot tints – "pas comme les autres", indeed. Pear, baked pear aroma that is at first very reminiscent of Viognier. It has a graciously mild air that brings in extra sensations as it breathes (has come straight from the cellar) – barley sugar and mandarin, then it develops honey, apricots, orange marmalade. It is a fresh, full wine on the palate, comes with a tang of bitter, a grip to it – the freshness defies its colour, don`t be put off. Decant it, since it needs waking up, is tight as a drum. Has a smooth and stroking texture –it glistens as it goes, is long and satisfying. Impressive and arresting wine that is delicious with roast leg of pork, the texture like stain ensemble. There is a fine and persistent line of acidity through its calm, steady richness – this is a typical Rhône off-vintage success. Delicious, warm and friendly, with just that rainy vintage tang of bitter at the end indicating a slightly below par crop. Has a warm glow on the aftertaste – very southern. 2020-23 June 2010 Previously March 2008 ****(*) apricot-gold robe that looks very mature. There is a honeyed, some would say maderised note in the bouquet, but it is still rich and sweetly-toned, like a lime marmalade; also has the old white Rhône damp wool airs. The texture and flavour are rich and on the path to dessert wine. Tightens with a little Roussanne grip, and shows salty touches at the end. Finishes clean as a whistle. Is rich all through, the sort of wine for foie gras, or rich, cream-sauced veal or chicken, for instance. Is a deliciously textured, sensual wine, still has ways to go, despite the outer appearances. 2016-19 March 2008

1990 ()

firm colour, yellow. the bouquet is very ripe, deep, with a solid fruited aroma, new oak present. This is very rich, corpulent on the palate; it's big wine, very typical of this extremely ripe vintage. It's not yet formed together, and is a bit like a Chave Hermitage in style. Called Vieille Vigne, in the singular. It has the body to age well. 2014-2018 Dec 1991, London

1989

clear, middling depth yellow colour. The bouquet is fresh, more fine than the 1990 tasted alongside it. There is a finesse in the white fruits, but I reckon it's just on the retreat now towards a dumb period. The palate is very calm, also shows it is about to enter a quiet phase. The balance is good, but it's retreating now. It is fine above all, has a lovely, delicate complexity. It will emerge to show greater depth in a few years, five more, say. Called Vieille Vigne on the label. 2011-14 Dec 1991, London

1988

a tiny bit paler yellow than the 1989 tasted with it. The nose is very classy, has a very good citrus and apricot thread in it; the aromas hold up well, are promising. The attack is quite firmly weighted, comes with some oak support that declares itself on the the finish, which is chewy. This is a firm wine that is likely to stay well, being rather robust. It's between 1989 and 1990 in style. 2008-11 Dec 1991, London

1987 ()

pretty robe: is yellow, not golden. Salted, salted bread, graceful aroma, and it is fresh. Also is toasty, as if it had just received some oaking. After 90 minutes, more pear present on this toasted bouquet. Mineral-tinted wine, with direction about it; shows crisp, dried fruits and has a clear, dry finale. No sense of alcohol here, is almost like a Coteaux du Layon. Very little change to this after 90 minutes: some hazelnut and damp wool come forward. The finish is fresh, very Roussanne. 2015-17 “I would eat a rich fish such as daurade, sea bass or also lobster cooked in olive oil, with this. I certainly would not use butter in the preparation, since it demands acidity in the wine,” F.Perrin Dec 2006 Previously Dec 1991 ***(*) very pretty, enticing, lustrous robe. The bouquet is showing early breadth, is sustained and carries finesse as it leaves a long trail. The palate is still quite reticent, bears delicately woven flavours, sustains itself, the length very good. This definitely breaks the southern whites mould - it is much more fine than is normalyl associated with this category. 2010-13 Dec 1991, London

1986

the first vintage made, called Vieille Vigne. Opened last night – now 10.15 am. Full yellow, with a shimmer of gold. The bouquet shows baked tart, brown sugar, is still very rich – there are no fireworks, just a very steady aroma, with a late touch of damp wool (also found with old/very old Viognier), and a salted (very Roussanne) side, and Comté cheese from Savoie or Switzerland. There is an oxidative tendency on the attack, rather like Fino sherry, but the second half of the palate is clear, and the wine ends tightly and freshly. Delightful second half on the palate, has lovely lift and the finale is a joy, fresh as a daisy. Drink on its own with symphony music, a good view and good friends. This bounce back from oxidation is a frequent phenomenon – I have experienced it with my 1990s whites that were an atrocious colour around 2002-04, but have now come round again. To – well, whenever: but note that the vintage held good acidity at the outset. “It was brown in colour around 2001-02, and now it is yellow, with just a bit of gold,” François Perrin. Nov 2008 Previously Oct 1998 ****** dark, attractive yellow. Maybe an air of grilled almonds, white flower, coconut and quince jelly on the nose – the bouquet is nice and oily, but has cut. There is a great array of flavour on the palate, an extraordinary taste – this is truly broad, too. There are notions of vanilla and mineral on the palate, and the flavour is exotic – toast, ripe citrus, lychee. There is a drying note near the finish, and this can live and soften further. There is too much acidity as it were for black truffles, but it would be great with cheese, Oriental food. Best to be decanted. Very good – complex and interesting. 2013-15 Oct 1998 Previously Dec 1991 ***(*) mid-depth yellow, quite firm colour. The nose has a burnt angle, a little apricot, toasting from oak, legs down the glass. It's a very ripe bouquet. The palate has good depth, is again pretty ripe, like the nose. It's well moulded, has fair length, is still sorting itself out a little. It just lacks a little thoroughness of flavour on the palate, the finish a bit hot. 2009-12 Dec 1991, London