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The Wines

30-60% Grenache blanc, 20-35% Roussanne, 10-20% each Clairette blanche, Bourboulenc (mid 1970s), Roussanne & Clairette 1-year 228 & 600-litre oak cask fermented at 17°C, raised, the other varieties steel vat fermented at 16°C, raised 6-8 months, malo blocked, 4-5,000 b

2016

shiny yellow robe. The nose is fragrant, peach stone, soft spring flowers, a note of liquid honey lined up, a hint of aniseed. The palate drinks with stylish ease, has a cosy roll of silken content, and discreet length, nothing in a hurry. This is for early and very enjoyable drinking, a well concerted blend of the four varieties. The flavour is gently cooked white fruits, white plum and peach. I like its finesse and serenity. 13.5°. 30% Gren bl, 30% Rouss, 20% Bourb, 20% Clair. 2024-25 Mar 2018

2015 ()

shiny yellow colour. The nose is just shifting backwards in on itself, has some of the strength of the vintage in its tightness. There are airs of nuts, dried fruits, a touch of grape essence. The palate has a cool take, with white plum and a note of light mandarin in the flavour, infused tea such as camomile towards the end. The finish has grip, with a firm little richness. It’s a trifle wiry, is more compact than the 2016, which has better balance. Come back to this in mid-2019. 13.5°. 30% Gren bl, 30% Rouss, 20% Bourb, 20% Clair. 2026-27 Mar 2018

2014 ()

bright yellow robe. This has a clear bouquet, with soft airs of pear, peach, greengage and salt in the mix. The palate picks up the salty baton and produces a vibrant run of white fruits, with a spring flower aspect, a little daintiness or precision. The finish is nearly effervescent. A go-go style of immediate Châteauneuf, with enough depth to suit mild dishes as well as the aperitif. 13°. 5,000 b. €32. 35% Gren bl, 35% Rouss, 15% Bourb, 15% Clair. Bottled May 2015. 2021-22  Oct 2015

2012 ()

yellow-tinted, some green notes in the robe. Vanilla and apricot first aroma, greengage plums with them – this has the flint-like clarity of 2012 above a local weight. The attack is careful, works well on a supple texture, has compote, white fruits jam in it, an extra spur at the end of lime, chicory. A sound duet between gras and freshness. There is a small show of glow on the aftertaste, and that can be ushered inside the wine in six to nine months; for now, it gives the wine depth. 13.5°. 2021-23  Oct 2013

2011

quite a bright, mild yellow, legs. It is exotic guava-mango jelly time on the nose; it suggests big, fat Roussanne which has received prolonged ripening, has an air of cooked limes also. The flavour combines pear-peach, vanilla, all in a fat context. It flirts with its degree towards the finish, and it is potentially heady unless served with lobster, sauced fish Thermidor, the cuisine of Escoffier, for instance. Has a gummy, round finale, linden tea, some grip there. A mature, ripe wine that demands foods, not solo drinking. 13.5°. 35% GB, 35% R, 15% B, 15% Cl this year. Bottled June 2012, 4,000 b, €30. 2020-21  Dec 2012

2010 ()

fair yellow robe; citrus breadth, lemon curd or jam on the nose that has a smoky core with a little flash of flintstone. The palate is bendy, wavy in nature – its cooked fruits are expressive, and the texture reflects good, sunny conditions. Lots of appeal for local flavours and dishes – tapenade, brandade, soupe au pistou etc. Good length. 13.5°. €30. 35% Gren bl, 35% Rouss, 15% Clair, 15% Bourb, bottled May 2011, 4.000 b this year. 2023-24 Dec 2011

2008

pale robe; gassy nose – “off” fruit, is reductive and leesy at present. The palate strides out better – has sound grip, measured white fruit. It ends tight, rather austerely – narrows down, takes on acidity in a sharp style ball. Decant this. From late 2010. 2016-17 Nov 2008

2007 ()

(the final assembled wine, to be bottled in 3 months) there is a buttery width on the nose, with honey and white raisin in it. The palate is suavely textured and refined – nicely rich, with a comfortable ease in it. The richness is pretty, without any forcing. Good length, beau vin. 2013-14 June 2008