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The Wines

40-75% Grenache blanc (half 1-year oak cask fermented), 0-60% Roussanne (228-litre 1-year oak cask fermented), 0-10% Picardan, 0-31% Clairette blanche from galet stone covered soils, 50% steel vat, 25% new 228-litre oak cask, 25% 1-year 228-litre oak cask fermented at 18°C, 50% steel vat, 25% new 228-litre oak cask, 25% 1-year 228-litre oak cask raised 8-9 months, malo blocked, 6-10,600 b

2018 ()

yellow robe; the nose has a lime, gingerbread aroma, carries southern weight, notes of peach, honeysuckle. The palate assembles well around citrus fruits, lime, has a freshness that keeps it on the go, goes into a clear, up finish. It’s rather stylish, full of beans now, pepped up with a little carbonic gas. There is a nutty note on the aftertaste. It’s a modern take, with a slight loss of body on the closing moments, but for solo drinking, that’s not a problem. There is oak on the aftertaste. 13.5°. 10,600 b. 45% Gren bl, 31% Clairette bl, 24% Roussanne. Bottled May 2019. €34. 2027-29 Oct 2019

2017 ()

steady yellow robe; refined aroma on the nose, hints more than openness, peach and plum drifts. It has the potential to emerge and vary. The palate is stylish, with a most appealing, suave run of mixed white fruits, pear with white strawberry. This is subtle, carries commendable detail given the weather conditions. The finish is rounded, and it’s a wine of serene flow, nothing enforced. 14.5°. 10,600 b. 43% Gren bl, 35% Rouss, 12% Clair, 10% Picardan. Bottled Apr 2018. €29.50. 2031-33 Oct 2018

2016 ()

yellow robe. This has the currently fashionable white Châteauneuf restraint on the nose, which is reserved; an air of apricot-peach peeks out, some glaxed fruits sweetness, aniseed also. The palate mingles sweet plum, spice and vanilla-oak, is suavely textured, has a soft gras. It extends en finesse. This is stylish, unforced. The oak-toffee comes forward on the aftertaste, with a note of cooked orange there. Poulet de Bresse (chicken of Bresse) in a morilles, wild mushroom sauce, veal would be good with this, also halibut, monkfish. I’d like more depth to the gras, so if you drink it now, be ready for it holding back, still tight. Much more advisable is to go in again from spring 2019. 14.5°. 2029-31 Sept 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe, quite deep. The palate is broad, vigorous, has a ripe fruit centre but is pretty fresh at the same time, has an aroma of orange peel. The palate is tightly drawn together, holds a compote of white fruits flavour with some nuttiness in the late stages, the texture smooth. It hits the line running, has sound length. It is traditional, suited to la table, has the body for white meats, for example. As it’s a bit dumb, decant it. 14.5° 8,000 b. 60% Rouss, 40% Gren bl. Bottled April 2016. 2028-31 Sept 2016

2014 ()

bright, quite full yellow robe. Peach, greengage plum first aromas feature in an alert bouquet, which has a suggestion of honeysuckle softness. The palate has a waxen quality about it, and the plum fruit sits comfortably on a tidy finish. This has northern region clarity, like a Saint-Péray. There is a minted quality to it, and the sign-off is stylish and clear, even if its content dips there. 14°. 10,000 b. Bottled May 2015. 75% Gren bl, 25% Rouss. 2026-28  Oct 2015 

2011

level yellow, legs. This has an apricot backed up by banana aroma, comes with vanilla, flan, shows power. The palate starts widely, possesses oak and assertive fruit that I find overdone. There is a crunchy note of near tannin and content towards the finish. It ends solidly, is low on charm for now. It needs to clarify and loosen, show more precision. The longer the wait, the better – a wine for later on, one not made with delicacy. Decant it. From 2015. 14°. 75% GB, 22% R, 3% Picardan this year. €27. Bottled April 2012. 2025-27  Dec 2012

2010

mild yellow, green tints. Cashew nuts, baked apple, light banana note in a sturdy bouquet that is wide, muscular, has oomph. The palate appears to have traditional varieties at its heart, notably Grenache blanc (tasted blind) – it is solid, and grounded, but has the fine qualities of the vintage to offset any potential heaviness. It ends on fine-tuned acidity, so is clear. Suited to foods in sauces, cream-based ones, for instance – it has a slight red wine depth and constitution. There is a taste of dried fruits, apricots, on the aftertaste. 14.5°. 2026-29 Feb 2012

2009

pale, lightly evolving yellow. The nose shows a thickening of its aroma, the fruit resembling pears in syrup, aniseed, wee touches of menthol and also hay. There are airs of Roussanne and oak. The palate holds quince and fine fruit that runs directly, and is more linear than the nose. It drinks well now, has matter, is quite a solar wine, ending on firm, near tannic notes. Serve in a largeBurgundyglass, suited to white meats, sauced or creamed foods. It has real crunchy depth, and is masculine from the vintage. A strong runner. From mid-2014 there will be less oak. 14.5°. €25. 2027-30  Dec 2012

2007

mid yellow; spiced, fresh top note to the aroma – candy, vanilla, butterscotch also, pineapple chunks, a little minerality. There is a definite ripple of depth in this – its fruit combines pepper, quince fruit, then mild nougat and a burst of late hazelnut. The length is sound. It is a bit dour, is a meaty wine, more suited to food than aperitif, its fruit needing to be more vivacious. Oak present on the finish, with restrained gras or richness within. Traditional wine from its grape varieties, less so from its oak raising. Time beneficial for it. From 2010. 2021-23 Nov 2008

2006 ()

mid yellow robe; broad, expansive, buttery aroma. I wonder if there is a bit of SO2 at first. The fruit is ripe, and expresses a greengage, dried fruit air with some zest, a spicy peach. This is full on the palate, with the richness well inset. The middle is plump, then it moves on to greater bite, spice and an agreeably firm, touch bitter ending. Its length is sound, and some good underlying acidity brings some movement, so its power isn't allowed to hang oppressively. A no fandango, wholesome wine. It drinks well with chicken now. I expect it to have an interesting second stage, say around 2012-13. 14.5°. 2019-21 October 2008

2005 ()

open bouquet with plenty of expression – flan, white fruits, tangy. Big wine on palate, with a dense, full-on flavour. Has a tannic chew at the end and a little bitterness. Like many this year, there is some power on the finish. 14°3. 2020-22 Nov 2006 This year 70% Grenache blanc, 10% each Roussanne, Clairette, Picardan, 15% oaked overall

2003 ()

broad, bonbon aroma, butter, light spice also. Flan, apricot, custard flavour at outset, this is fat wine. It tightens a little on the finish - Clairette and Picardan help to achieve that. Dried fruits, fennel mixture on finish. Length good. Interesting wine. So much Roussanne was spoilt by the heat that this is 80% Grenache blanc, little or no Roussanne. “We started harvesting the white grapes on 18 August this year,” Laurent Brechet. 2020-23 March 2005, London

2001

pretty and bright mid-yellow colour. The nose mixes some pineapple and honey with a little flan and butter in support, with dried fruits. The palate is brisk, and flows well. Has a white fruits, flan flavour, and is pretty and very elegant. Good acidity, grip and length, with an easy purpose about it. Is bang on now, with still youthful qualities. 2019-21 Nov 2007