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The Wines

5-50% Roussanne (mid-late 1970s), 25-55% Grenache blanc (1997), 9-46% Clairette (1997), 0-7% Bourboulenc (early 2000s) from galet stone soils at La Cousseroute (S-E), fermented 30% new, 70% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks at 25°C, raised 12 months, lees stirred for 2-3 months, malo completed, organic wine, 3,800-6,000 b

2018 ()

full yellow robe; the nose is broad, grapey, buttery, comes with notions of petrol, apricot. The palate bears rather thick richness, maintains that couch all through, is definitely one for la table, sauced dishes on the menu. There is a fine thread of acidity through it. It’s an honest glass of Châteauneuf blanc. Decanting an option. 13.5°. 3,800 b. 55% Gren bl, 40% Clairette bl, 5% Rouss. Bottled June 2019. €33. 2028-29 Oct 2019

2017 ()

full yellow robe; orange marmalade, rich style of bouquet, an interesting note of white strawberry within, peeking out. After that solid, slightly toppy start, the palate is also rich, grounded, requires la table, sauced dishes. It has a honey richness, with some oaking towards the finish. Table wine with a butty strength in it. 14.3°. 5,200 b. 46% Clair, 43% Gren bl, 11% Rouss. Bottled June 2018. €29. 2026-27 Oct 2018

2016

full yellow robe, some gold. The nose is reserved, typical of local varieties such as Clairette and Grenache blanc {tasted blind}. There is a flan, butterscotch, brioche note also. The attack is fat, delivered with a lissom and suave texture, has a plump heart, and develops a good run of tangy white fruits after half way - a change of gear. This is stylish, and it ends roundly, calmly, with finesse. 14°. 2022-23 Dec 2017

2014 ()

fine yellow, legs visible. The nose mixes toasting, nuts, the fruit leaning towards apricot and peach, has some southern depth, airs of flowers. The palate offers appealing gras, holds real good squeezy content, is en rondeur and nicely typical. There are cool lime notes, good freshness. A beau wine for la table, very natural and attractive. It works very well on its texture, with the bonus of a fresh, cool finish thanks to the vintage. 13°. 2023-25 Nov 2015

2011

(casks) oily aspect, mid-depth yellow. Pineapple chunks, butter air here, a note of vanilla, some oak – this shows strength across the glass. This is a sturdy, power wine with alcohol present on the late stages, currently in a young, raw state. Food needed – sauced white meats. It isn’t properly balanced, isn’t a free drinking wine. Decant this. 14.5°. From 2014. 54% GB, 22% R, 19% Cl, 5% B, €30, 5,600 b this year. 2022-23  Dec 2012

2009 ()

opaque pear-cream robe. Has a soft and mild air, cooked white fruits with not a lot of distinguishing features. The palate starts carefully, is tucked into itself, a bit plain. I would say a fair amount of Gren blanc is present (tasted blind). A workmanlike wine that needs food, I find it static in the glass. To 2017. Steep price at €34.50. Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 *** (casks) gold and off white tints in the yellow robe. Has a solid bouquet – shows white fruit, orange, rather oily bergamot airs, best decanted. The palate is rather muscular and wired, works on a big scale, has tannin siding. A big wine – certainly best with food such as mushroom dishes, risottos, white meats. From late 2011. 2020-22 Oct 2010

2008 ()

pale yellow; gently curved, quite full peach aroma, comes with spice seasoning, hazelnut, apricot, vanilla pod, oak – a good start to proceedings. The palate has a honeyed flavour, sound depth. It keeps ticking, gains in weight and power towards the finish, ends solidly, a hint of tannin. Very correct, local wine lies within its oak. Grounded, not flighty – food best. 2018. 50% Roussanne, 25% Grenache blanc, 19% Clairette, 6% Bourboulenc this year. Dec 2009

2007

mild yellow; a close-knit mix of hazelnut, peach-apricot pie, with honey, lime marmalade on the bouquet which has a rich, not overdone face to it. The palate is bulky, spreads itself across, starts in a relaxed, supple way with a somewhat tannic, upright spine, then finishes on honey. A welcoming wine of good harmony that will be good with Asiatic dishes, langoustines, sauced dishes. There are salty moments from its Roussanne. 2016-18 Nov 2008

2006 ()

yellow, pineapple colour; oak front to the aroma, reserved fruit behind – this needs leaving until 2010-11. The palate has a fresh, mobile way about it, the flavour is hazelnut-like. Has a good stretch of fruit, poise, sound balance. White pepper aftertaste. 2018-19. 46% Roussanne, 45% Grenache blanc, 9% Clairette this year. Nov 2008

2005 ()

the bouquet is broad and expresses a tangle of oak, orange marmalade and banana. The palate has a rather angular start, then softens. Has a buttery, spiced end, when the oak resurfaces. Has a nutty aftertaste. 14°. To 2012-13. Oct 2007