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The Wines

45-77% Roussanne, 0-45% Clairette (each vinified separately, Roussanne 8-10 days ahead), can include 5-34% Grenache blanc, 0-3% Bourboulenc, whole bunch pressing, 50-61% 1-year 228-litre oak cask, 25-50% new 228 or 600-litre oak cask, 14% steel vat fermented, raised 7-8 months (until mid-2010s 100% new oak cask fermented, until 2006 was 50% new oak, 50% 1-year oak cask fermented, raised 8012 months), malo blocked, “drink with foie gras on toast, white meat in a cream sauce”, organic wine, 800-3,200-6,000 b

2019 ()

clear, flinty yellow robe; the bouquet wants to surge forward, has tropical fruit airs such as lychee, grapefruit, toasting from the oak. It carries discreet depth, ripeness that will become more obvious over time. The palate delivers a stylish run of white fruits, is threaded with carbonic gas, with fine acidity keeping the show going, shows the Roussanne in its finesse, with some oily, vinous contributions from the Clairette, as it should be. It merits a large glass, and can develop well, since the balance is good. I note a steady, well tuned build in depth after the mid-point, while the finish lingers, and brings in some welcome citrus tang. 14°. 2032-34 June 2020

2018 ()

yellow robe. Elder berry features on the nose, a note of licorice, sweet toasting, roasted nuts. The palate bears agreeable, neat gras, is soft and slightly spiced. There is a gentle flavour of mixed white fruits, white plum, with fine acidity on the close. It will pair with mild flavoured dishes, pure flavours, Japanese cuisine a good bet. It could have more stuffing, impact, brio. ‘Mild’ is the word for it. 13.5°. 800 b. 77% Rouss, 23% Gren bl. Bottled March 2019. 2025-26 Oct 2019

2017

shiny yellow robe; the nose leads on sherbet, a sense of SO2, has a grainy interior, with apple, white plum notes. The palate has some medium weight content, is loose in its delivery, disparate. There are nudges of lemon curd, cooked lemon, white plum in the flavour. There is some grip, saltiness on the aftertaste. Regular Châteauneuf blanc here. 13.5°. 796 b. 66% Rouss, 34% Gren bl. Bottled March 2018. 2026-27 Oct 2018

2016

(casks) full yellow colour, with shine, legs down the glass. There is an elegant centre to the nose, pear and white plum airs. It also summons flowers, light butter from the oak. The palate glides well thanks to suavely textured, stylish gras richness, a real rolling carpet of pleasure, all en rondeur. This holds pinpoint finesse – most enjoyable that is – and it quietly blooms on the aftertaste. There are dabs of lime fruit along the palate. It has captured a ball of finesse very well, and is tender on the close. Serve in a large glass, and drink with halibut, turbot in due course. It is less oaked, more fine, than in past years. The balance is good. I note that the oak expands with air. From spring 2018. 2024-26 July 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe; elder flower cordial, with a sweetness of fruit, jam-like style, ripe nectarine and peach here, some oak toffee. A touch of aniseed helps to lift a little. The palate bears sweet content, a hum of smooth filling, the flavour resting on subtle peach near the stone, greengage. It ends with a steady grip, coolly, just a little drift there. Decant it. 13.7°. 3,200 b. 60% Rouss, 30% Clair, 8% Gren bl, 2% Bourb. Bottled June 2016. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014 ()

clear yellow robe; the nose is lightly salted, with a white plum greengage fruit aroma, a note of guava. The palate bears soft fruit with a breeze of freshness towards the finish, which has an infused tea nature. The texture is clear, has a rocky note about it. Suggests north facing wines/ Bourboulenc presence through its cut (tasted blind). 13.5°. 2022-23  Oct 2015 

2013

pale robe, but yellow lurks. The nose is very elegant, stylish: it is softly oaked, has a white fruit, wee spice angle, a gentle pear fruiting, a dab of vanilla. This is promising. The palate starts on a carbonated note, injected gas, with an enjoyable mid-palate squeezy gras, a fleshy compote of apricot, banana, and toasting from the oak. It is that oak that runs its fresh finish. It has been made, successfully, to parade or extol an airborne style of neo Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It ends on a pretty, almost winsome acidity, with a lime-lemon freshness. It drinks well and smoothly now, aided by good balance. 13.5°. 2025-27  Feb 2015 Previously Oct 2014 ****(*) pale yellow colour. Zesty pear-nuanced nose with a hint of creamy oak : the nose suggests a good depth of fruit. This is opulent and full on attack. Has super concentration, and that comes with a zesty note that is persistent behind. Finishes long and fresh. Good balance. Not quite the finished article but already drinking well. Needs food.  From late 2015. 13.5°. 2024-25  JL GB £300/6 bots Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Oct 2014

2010

yellow robe, light brown touch to it. The bouquet has a generous white jam, sweet-noted air, cooked banana. The palate kicks off on flavours of guava, exotic fruits, banana – it is just shifting into a second phase. Its length is decent. It ends on dried fruits, spice, tilleul or linden tea notes. It is a bit dumb. From 2013. Decant this. 13.5°. 2020-22 Feb 2012 Previously July 2011 *** bottled last week: bright light yellow with green tints in the robe. Has a smoky, pear front aroma, a murmur of tropical, ripe fruits, guava for instance. The nose is wide, even square for now. The palate is buttery, carries light spice, and does not feel properly formed as yet. Finishes on oak-toast. Taking baby footsteps for now, is a bit clinical. Can improve with time – to ***(*) or maybe ****. From 2015. 13.5°. 2026-28 88% oak this year, 12% vat, 4,000 b. 57% R, 31% Clairette, 8% Bourb, 4% Gren bl this year. July 2011

2009 ()

the robe is moving to a glistening, mild yellow. The nose is dumb, shows an aroma of flan and cashew nuts that is just detectable, hints of pear. The palate is also wrapped up, has a rather firm heart, lengthens with a line of tannin, a spine. Elegantly presented wine that will drink best when mature, when it has opened up, gives more and is less cautious. From spring 2012, can be decanted. “It was more expressive between January and March 2011, and may stay like this for a few months more,” Christian Voeux. 13.5°. 2025-27. 57% R, 31% Clairette, 8% Gren bl, 4% Bourb, this year. July 2011

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2007

steady, quite bright yellow. Lime and fruit near the stone airs, mature butter, a tiny sweetness with toast and honeysuckle flower airs. The palate is starting to bend, soften – the texture shows that, but its flavour is not yet established., There is prominent smoky oak on the final part. Decent width of acidity, a wine that can live. It needs less of a surge of oak – try from 2014. Respectable wine, but needs time. The finish is rather ordinary. 2024-26 July 2011 Previously April 2011 *** full yellow, green tints; white plum, aniseed, pineapple plus oak in the bouquet, also vanilla. Notable texture on the palate, very smooth, is now shutting down. Oak is prominent on the late stages, dominates there and takes over. There is vinous content, gras and it improves with air. From 2015, post shut down. 2024-27 April 2011 Previously Nov 2008 *** has a rich aspect, quite a full yellow-lime colour; The bouquet bears crisp fruit with oak evident – it has an upright shape now, and is peppered from its oaking. The palate has a gourmand, rich texture – this is not a wine of energy, is one for reflective drinking. Honey and dried apricot feature in the taste. It is still finding its path, the length is sound and it is intrinsically rich. Oak in the form of vanilla is woven into the finish. “It needs four to five years – it runs on its richness and volume for now,” Alain Dugas. A wine that does well in USA and Asia. 13.5°. From 2012. 2020-23 Nov 2008 55% Roussanne, 40% Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc this year

2006

steady yellow colour, legs down the glass. Has a honey-pineapple with a little pear, gradually evolving nose that is refined – the palate turns out to be more robust. This is interesting - the wine grips right away, and has a wholesome core. The oak is fusing, and the salty, firm Roussanne aids it end robustness. There is a lot of wine here on the palate. Copious, big and involving wine with good length. This is ahead of the 2007. From 2010. 2020-23 Nov 2008 58% Roussanne, 42% Clairette this year

2005

this won a Gold Medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2010: gold, apricot tints – Roussanne leads the colour. Baked apple aroma, has an oxidative style, but is very precise, not at all loose, resembles Bual Madeira or fino sherry, is also herbal, Provençal. A good, provocative start. The palate has oak within a sherry amontillado richness and texture, but the wine ends freshly, note. Again, Roussanne plays a key role. The air keeps it going, serving to extend and finesse it. The finish is aniseed. The length gains as it airs. Bring on a variety of dishes – Asian spiced food, Comté cheese, for instance. Really good. Decant this. Will tick over for a good long time. 2021-24 April 2010 Previously Nov 2006 ***(*) round, nicely persistent nose with some banana, oak, vanilla – the Roussanne brings life and a salty tone. The palate shows soft and supple white fruits, with tannic traces. The length is sound. A little dried fruit, and also pineapple at the end from the oak. Esp 2009 on for integration. 2017-19 Nov 2006 58% Roussanne, 42% Clairette

2004

wide, oaked nose with honey and baked apple tart underneath. There is a tucked away preach-plum flavour on the palate. The oak is in residence. The finale is rich, promising. This will be expressive from 2009 on. 2015-17 Nov 2006. 48% Roussanne, 43% Clairette, 7% Grenache blanc, 2% Bourboulenc

2003 ()

marked yellow robe – it is shiny, shows gold glints, like a young barsac. Damp wool, rich air to the bouquet, with a peanut, flan backdrop and ripe jam – its width is elegant. The palate is at a calm moment – it delivers oaked and exotic fruit flavours, but the surprise is the presence of the oak, with its tight presence. It is a dense wine, with late oak and heat, the oak a distraction. Put it to one side and hope the oak recedes – it`s certainly taking its time. From 2012 – it could suddenly throw off the oak. 56% Roussanne, 26% Clairette, 17% Grenache blanc, 1% Bourboulenc this year. 2020-22. “I find quince liqueur here on the palate,” Christian Voeux. “I would eat a fish in sauce, chicken or white meats, or steamed foie gras,” Alain Dugas. Nov 2008 Previously Dec 2005 ***(*) December 2005, CdP

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2001

yellow robe. Tight, discreet nose shows tilleul (linden), herbs, white fruits, also oak. This is good, tight, rather creamy wine with agreeable flan or custard taste and filling, then notes of toast from its oak. Very young – it is a touch firm, but is clear on the finish. Quite elegant, needs leaving until 2007-08. Some gras figures on the finale. 2017-19  Feb 2003

1999

yellow robe; the nose is a bit dumb – suggests cooked fruits, saffron, spice. The palate is directed, goes down the line, has fair weight. There is some mid-palate gras, a mix of salt and warmth on the finish. It is still reserved, with oak bringing some dryness as it ends. The aftertaste is chewy. Esp drink from 2006. 2015-17  Feb 2003