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The Wines

95-100% Grenache (1880-1948), 0-5% various (1920s and older) from clay-limestone, galet stone covered soils on Palestor (N), Cabrières (N-W), 20 day vinification at 30-32°, daily cap punching, concrete vat raised 12-14 months, unfined, filtered, 2,200-7,000 b

2017 ()

dark red colour; red meat, red berry fruits mingle in a dense, sturdy bouquet. The palate has a thread of liqueur fruit, a plush side to it, developing tannins that are a touch angular on the close. I suggest that the raising could have lasted another winter, the second half more generous as a result. It’s not all together. It has a close to cough medicine flavour as it ends. 16°. 2,200 b. 100% Grenache. Bottled June 2018. From 2021. 2037-39 Oct 2018

2016

(vat) quite a dark red robe. The nose has cool tenor, with inside an air of blackberry lozenges, some marjoram, rosemary, sweet herbs. It’s going to put on a good display in time. The palate is compact, knit together around black stone fruits with muscle, inner strength that just murmurs under the surface. It has an intricate composition, and requires patient cellaring to crack its promising code. There is just a cautious release of juice late on before the finish, which is knuckled, pebbly from the rather rocky tannins. There’s nothing overdone here. From 2021-22 to allow the tannins to soften. 2040-42 Oct 2017

2014

(concrete vat, bottling Apr 2016) dark red robe. The bouquet is attractive, presents a considered raspberry and cassis fruit with some reserves and mystery. The palate starts on gentle, assured depth of raspberry fruit and takes on ripe, mild tannins with a good, bendy quality about them. Calm in style, nicely unforced. The finish is round, fresh, a little savoury. Bonny wine. 14.5°. 3,500 b. €56. From 2018. 2027-29  Oct 2015   

2010

rather full robe; dark, almost inky nose – beef stock and deep-set black fruit, comes with tar, sustained airs of licorice, sweetness present. The palate is more open than the nose, has a free note on the attack – oily black fruit with sweet herbs in it; a wine that delivers texture. It takes on active, slightly acidulous tannins on the second half, which line its sides and dominate the finale. A bit disorderly now. From 2015. Bottled Sept 2011. €56.40 at the cellar, no thanks. 2033-36 Dec 2011

2009 ()

full plum red; the nose is broad, latent, has a brewed black fruit fullness. The palate is beefed up, has a persistent and insistent nature, is chunky. Grounded, full wine. A bit common, ends on a disquieting dryness. That needs to be resolved. 15.5°. Skip its youth, go for the middle age. Try from 2014. 2028-31 Sept 2011

2007

bright, dark robe. Sultry nose – this needs decanting – is on a leesy, raisin trail now, is reductive. There is a sweet core to the palate, presents ripe fruit with a savoury, blackberry build-up and a wide final stage. Sweet black fruit lies at its heart, is in a primary state now. Fruit pastilles, black fruit coulis flavour here. Is not a finesse wine, but is one that drinks soundly. From late 2010. 2024-27 Nov 2009