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The Wines

95-100% Roussanne (1990), 0-5% Clairette blanche from sandy soils on Les Blaquières (E) & Le Cristia Sud (N-E), destemmed, fermented 19°C, raised 20% new, 80% 1-6 year oak casks 6 months on lees, malo not sought, 1,200-3,200 b

2019

jolie robe, green tints, yellow; there’s a ripe curve to the bouquet which has a creamy, flan aroma with lift, distinction, very neat precision, quince plum, a hint of aniseed. It has a genuine Roussanne nature. Notes of carbonic gas run through the palate, which carries an excellent suave texture and a seamless flow, running well into the finish, retaining its shape well, the length good. Its soft gras is tasty, has pinpoint appeal. The balance is good, and it’s nicely complete, deserves good fish such as halibut and turbot; for now, it explodes on the finish when paired with wild black bream, like cordite in it, lighting it up, bringing out the strength. 14.5°. 2030-32 May 2020

2018

yellow colour; the nose has an engaging freshness, notes of cooked pear, cooked lemon, is a bright start, with a fine local depth. The palate offers a free run of white fruits, orange in the flavour, ends with a little mineral note that invites a second glass. It’s on the button Châteauneuf, stylish and attractive – a good, true example of Roussanne off sandy soils. 14.5°. 3,200 b. 100% Roussanne. Bottled Feb 2019. €32. 2028-30 Oct 2019

2017 ()

solid yellow colour; the nose has a cooked pear, candy fruit air, a note of tangerine, white raisin. It’s a pretty solid start. The palate is savoury, ripe, on cooked white plum fruits and spicing, with a tendency towards a tang-bitter, assertive ending for now; that would be handled by a dish of monkfish, tuna, soft cheese. It has quiet authority, but the slight power syndrome on the close is an issue. 14.5°. 2,760 b. 95% Rouss, 5% Clairette. Bottled Feb 2018. 2031-33 Oct 2018

2016

yellow robe. The nose has inner roundness, a toast-vanilla and compote of white fruits – stewed fruits - duo centrally, with a fringe of mandarin, lemon. The palate has a bounteous debut, holds fleshy content, willing gras with a juicy, smooth texture. It possesses refined acidity, and is stylish, truly southern in its shape and make-up. It finishes nice and widely, and will do well with fine fish such as turbot, halibut, sea bass. There are some intricate details here; it’s a deft southern white, notable for its style, length and balance: a beau do all round. 14.5°. 2026-28 July 2017

2015

firm yellow robe. The nose shows oaking, white raisin, white fruits jam, peanut paste. It’s assertive, more so than most this year. The palate bears traditional, closed-in and firm gras, with a vintage strength in its close-knit make-up. The length is steady. Very much a candidate for decanting, but also leaving until 2019, and getting into its early secondary influences. It has good body, proper depth. Drink with sauced dishes, Vieille France cuisine. 14.5°. 2,750 b. 100% Roussanne. Bottled Jan 2016. 2027-29 Sept 2016

2014

pretty full yellow robe that suggests a big wine ahead (tasted blind). The nose is broad, ample, flecked with oak. There is an air of roasted nuts, a ginger tang, some compote of white fruits. The palate hangs together well, presenting a fluid, slightly spiced white fruits flavour with a little note of petrol and tang as it closes. This is broad, solid wine, shaped and tasting correctly of its garrigue lands. The gras extends until the finish. Great with ris de veau, sweetbreads, pieds et paquets, offal dishes. 14.5°. 2,500 b. Bottled March 2015. 2026-28  Oct 2015 

2013

quite deep yellow/gold colour. Rich, peach, stone fruit nose. Palate holds gras richness, is sweet with a rich swathe of glycerol. Some oak and lees stirring for richness? Just a hint of alcohol on the finish. Imposing. Reserved for food. From spring 2015. 14.5°. 2023-25  JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

yellow robe, wee apricot tints – a rich aspect. This has a big, broad bouquet – gives an air of rich, orange marmalade, plus a little ginger and spice, with a banana flambé air. This resides more in the cellar than the vineyard. The palate has a richly coated texture, a flavour of white raisin, peach, laced with brandy. This is a food-only wine, suited to cream sauce dishes, Vieille France cooking, or dishes with grapes in them, Sole Véronique, even curry. There is a note of oxidation, but the wine lives, and will live, thanks to its glycerol. It has character. 15°. Bottled March 2012. 2020-21  Dec 2012

2010 ()

green-tinted pale yellow colour. Has a smoky, flan air of instant appeal and the promise of variety to come: there is an interesting mix of lime, white stone fruits such as plum, vanilla and iodine. The palate mixes gras with a fresh sinew, is not straightforward, and weaves around. There are rather tough, burnt moments towards the finish; I am not sure it will get there, but leave until mid-2014 and hope it can loosen and gain appeal. The promise of the nose is helpful. It's high at 15° on the label, a policy decision. Marked on potential. 2020-22 Feb 2012