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The Wines

25-40% Clairette blanche (Grand Devès, Les Tresquous (N-W), 25-40% Roussanne (Combes Masques, Les Pradel (N-W), 20-30% Grenache blanc (Les Tresquous (N-W), 10-25% Bourboulenc (Les Tresquous (N-W), from limestone-clay soils, 6 hour cold crop maceration, 60-70% steel vat at 18-19°C, 30-40% new 300-litre oak cask (Roussanne) fermented, raised 5 months, 9-20,000 b

2019 ()

clear yellow robe; the bouquet is attractive, has a bonny weight of peach fruit, apricot on board, with hints of oak that increase its depth. There’s a grapey tone to it,  anote of seaweed. The palate is stylish, enveloping, carries very enjoyable, mixed white fruits flavouring with precise acidity, freshness, and notes of aniseed, clarity, on the close. A little carbonic gas threads it, so there is a hum of freshness from that quarter. The length is very good, refined. This is a most taking Châteauneuf blanc, balance and togetherness right on the money. 14°. 2030-32 Nov 2020

2018

shiny yellow robe; peach, pear airs mingle on the nose, which carries a little southern fullness, discreetly done. There’s a note of aniseed, infused tea that I associate locally, a hint of petrol. The palate engages with its bundle of white fruits, has a small note of tannin towards the finish. It’s a medium weight Châteauneuf with aromatic content, suited to mackerel, cod fish with fennel, for example. The finish is tidy, clear, a note of fluid gras there. 13.5°. 20,000 b. 25% Gren bl, 25% Clairette, 25% Rouss, 25% Bourb. €40. 2032-34 Oct 2019

2017

regular yellow robe; The nose has a blend of elderberry with tropical fruit such as pineapple, passion fruit zest present. It’s nicely weighted. The palate runs with salted threads that bring life all through, a compote of white fruits including pear in the flavour. It ends with trim grip, clearly, has some character. The aftertaste shows a little honey, infused herbal tea. 13.5°. 9,000 b. 25% each Gren bl, Clair, Rouss, Bourb. Bottled June 2018. €37. 2027-29 Oct 2018

2016

clear yellow robe. The bouquet goes for elegance over strength, offers a neat elder flower, peach fruit aroma, a little fringe of saltiness. The palate sequels from the nose in being restrained, with mild depth of content, some grapey tang towards the finish. It’s attractive but rather escapist for a white Châteauneuf in my view, thus is from the New Wave school, an innocuous wine. There is a thread of carbonic gas noticeable inside it, changing its texture away from the fat it could have. With the degree 13.5° on the label, the policy has clearly been to offer a wine for solo, wine bar drinking, not scaring any horses that may stray into metropolitan areas. 2021-22 Nov 2017

2015

bright, quite firm yellow. The nose is broad, has potential; roasted nuts, stem ginger, aniseed, white peach and apricot feature, but it doesn’t come across as an entity just yet. The palate gives an elegant debut, with attractive and enjoyable fleshy gras, white plum and again apricot coming forward. The length is good, and it will fly along with fish such as sea bass, halibut, plaice, as well as scallops. It’s a very clear, consistent flow wine. 14°. 9,000 b. 30% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 30% Rouss, 10% Bourb. €35 at the cellars. 2024-26 Sept 2016

2014

bright yellow robe, ample legs visible. The bouquet comes forward, gives a cooked citrus, mandarin and vanilla air, with a note of peach and peach stone in behind. The palate carries enjoyable, slightly spiced white fruits with a good, creamy surround. The finish is clear. This combines well freshness and graceful richness. 13.5°. 30% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 30% Rouss, 10% Bourb. €35. 15,000 b. Bottled Jan 2015. 2022-24  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

pale yellow with green flecks. Aromatic pear and peach nose. The palate is fresh, balanced, rounded, holds attractive fruit flavours. Probably best to drink on the fruit now. 14.5°. 2019-20. JL Oct 2014

2012

attractive light yellow robe. Dried fruits, apricot, orange zest and vanilla pod aromas, a little appealing buttery depth beyond them. The nose has style, and nice airborne qualities and breadth. It is stylish, switched on, modern, holds well. The palate gives vanilla, greengage plum fruits with a very joli acidity to keep it fresh and fluent. The attack is elegantly plump, then the finish provides subtle grip, focus and clarity. It is a tiny bit saline at the end. This gives a very good aperitif. Also drink this with fine fish. 13.5°. 2018-19 Dec 2014 Previously Oct 2013 *** quiet yellow robe. The aroma is subdued – it shows a light floral drift, lemon pie, a wee note of aniseed cut, compote of white fruits, pear and peach. The palate has a fine grain texture – it has a finesse of matter and acidity as well, that works on a low-key register. You, the drinker, have to seek it out rather than vice-versa. Gentle, measured wine with decent length. An early, aromatic style of Châteauneuf, rather than one based on power. Aniseed and greengage plum feature on the aftertaste. Good now. “The Roussanne was a bit too ripe, so wasn’t oaked this year. It was more expressive, and is closing now,” Didier Couturier. 13.5°. 2018-19  Oct 2013

2011

shiny pale yellow. This is a bonny nose – displays apricot, flan, banana, has a hum of power, but there are also welcome touches from flowers such as freesia and honeysuckle. The palate is tight-knit, has a waxen flavour which is under wraps, not expressive. This needs decanting. It has a sturdy heart, is a food wine, solid, with a firm couch underpinning it, a slight nutty note. Has the potential to go on. I like its core. From late 2013. 13.5°. €27. 30% GB, 30% Cl, 30% R, 10% B this year. 2023-24  Dec 2012  Previously Sept 2012 *** medium yellow; has a broad, fat aroma – it shows a buttery, ripe face, has airs of nut and verveine (verbena) as well. The flavour combines peach and hazelnut, is rather weighty. It finishes roundly, is fleshy there. Better with foods than aperitif. A touch obvious, but agreeable. 2019-20  Sept 2012

2010

pale yellow, a pear tint to it. Floating, airy nose of subtle appeal, starkly different from the weighty 2009, and is vintage correct. Projects a little citrus, citronelle, soft spring flowers, along with peanut and almond paste. Day 2 – the aroma reflects lime. Nutty, grippy debut to the palate – the flavour is based on white raisin, baked brown sugar. The acidity is low-key, as if the crop was picked when the domaine was seeking extra ripeness that didn`t quite complete its route. The length is OK. Middle of the road, a safe sort of Châteauneuf blanc. Day 2: more body, it is gaining in weight, is more knit. 14°. 2017-18 Sept 2011 Previously April 2010 *(*) pale yellow. Subdued, reductive air – decant this. The fruit within is ripe, perhaps a low-key pear aroma, is not fresh. Downbeat palate – candy and confection style, lacks cut and poise, has brittle sides. Lacks flair. Post-bottling blues? 14°. To 2017 April 2011

2009 ()

pale, fluid yellow; curvy, supple aroma, ripe fruit such as banana and notably pear, comes forward, with tiny spice in back, is nutty also. The fruit is high in nature. Day 2: ripe fruit, some dampness. Easy, textured, drinkable wine with secure body, an agreeable middle before it shortens on the finish. Shows a bit of late heat. Food will sort out the finish. marks for a supple, enjoyable texture. Finishes quite clearly, with a dash of mineral. It lengthens with air, will please drinkers. 14°. 2017-18 Sept 2011

2008 ()

undecided robe – yellow traces. Has a cautious, varnish-led bouquet whose fruit is not spotless, as if there were ripening difficulties, the crop not 100% healthy. The palate is dumb, even a bit severe. It lacks a moment of fragrance, is stern towards the finish, the flavour bitter at its core. The final moments are tough. Hard to envisage a risurgimento here. To 2012. Nov 2009

2007

pale yellow; buttery, but live nose – has a fresh, salty top to it – is airy. The fruit and its acidity combine, making it drinkable now, does well as an aperitif. Not that full. There is assertive late acidity that needs to settle. 2012-13 Feb 2009

2006

pale yellow colour, with legs running down the glass. Soft, melted butter aroma, with a cool second stage – lime, dried fruits with some sea salt: a good, wide enough and regular bouquet. The palate is also buttery, but has some spine; the taste reflects dried fruits, hazelnut. It is easy to drink now, with a supple largely inviting texture. Ends on a little point of grip – a precise final clinch. Can be drunk solo, or with gentle foods – cold dishes, chicken, hors d`oeuvres, salads, Spanish omelette, humous, cold lentil salad with onion, tomato, coriander, cumin. Very pleasant but a touch simple. Has a bonny honeycomb finish. 13.5°. 2012-13 July 2008