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The Wines

30-40% Grenache blanc, 20-30% Clairette, 10-20% Roussanne, 20% Bourboulenc (all late 1980s) from galet stone covered soils on Le Revès (S-E), 3 week vinification at 16-18°C, 50-65% steel vat, 35-50% new oak casks raised 8-10 months on fine lees, "drink with fish, white meats, goat cheese, Mediterranean dishes such as tuna à la Provençale, cold ratatouille”, 6,500-8,000 b

2019

fine yellow robe; the bouquet is assembling its deck of cards still, has airs of elderberry, white peach, suggests a stylish future with a well judged depth. The palate is also restricted in its delivery, but is tuneful and detailed, has attractive breadth, with finesse in its white fruits, and droplets of juice that appeal. The finish is precise, well together, accumulates a neat extra layer there. The flavour carries peach, white plum, with a note of infused herbal tea close to the finish. 13.5°. 30% Clair, 30% Gren bl, 20% Bourb, 20% Rouss. 50% steel vat, 50% cask. From spring 2021, can be decanted. 2029-31 Aug 2020

2018 ()

rather deep yellow colour; the bouquet is broad, reserved, has an intensity of the garrigue and warm lands, comes with infused tea – camomile - and peach airs. The palate coasts along well, unfurls attractive gras and continues well, the finish clear and purposeful, invites a second glass. It has the depth for fish such as sea bass, daurade, and for aged Comté cheese, for example. It ends with some thrust, has inner power, which I like - it states where it is from. 13.5°. 30% clair, 30% Gren bl, 20% Bourb, 20% Rouss. 2033-35 Oct 2019

2017 ()

full yellow colour, a big robe. The bouquet is a big affair, toasted and fat, with a peach essence, a note of rhubarb tang. The palate is broad, thorough, carries a dried fruits, compressed flavour with some citrus edges, notes of ginger, near bitterness. This is scaled Châteauneuf blanc, an impact wine for Bouillabaisse, garlic, southern dishes. The finish could be more refined. 13.5°. 6,500 b. 40% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 20% Bourb, 10% Rouss. Bottled May 2018. €25.50. 2026-28 Oct 2018

2016 ()

rather pale yellow colour. There is a twinning of honey and mandarin fruit on the nose, which has discreet substance, and also shows a note of vanilla. The palate bears attractive white fruits, is lying low today, not revealing much detail. There is a line of steady richness through it, and it will be best served à table, with white meats, firm fish such as daurade, sea bass. There are floral-citrus notes late on. Decanting helpful for this currently subdued wine. 13.5°. 30% Clair, 30% Gren bl, 20% Bourb, 20% Rouss. 2028-30 Nov 2017

2015

yellow robe. Cooked pear, a strong sense of apricot, some candy show on the nose; it’s a broad start. The palate bears ripe fruits with a plush style, does more on the attack than the finish. It drifts towards the finish, but drinks easily. It lacks the authority of the best, is a little flat, piano. 14.5°. 6,500 b. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014 ()

steady yellow robe. The nose has a lucid quality, the fruit peach-like, just a hint of deeper toffee from some oak, white raisin and roasted nuts behind. The palate is compact, in on itself for now: there is a baked brioche, vanilla angle to it. This will do well over time – there is plenty of content, and it speaks well of a traditional, proper Châteauneuf blanc, suited to sauced cuisine, strong flavours, garlic, aioli, Provençal dishes. A smudge of oak features on the aftertaste, which is complete. Really accomplished. From 2017. 2029-31  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

pale yellow robe. Lively pear, mandarin and citrus-inspired nose. The palate is rich, fat and full, has a succulent peach and stone fruit flavour. Appealing now, but the density of fruit and glycerol suggest ageing potential. 14°. 2024-25 JL Oct 2014

2012

low-key yellow colour. Zappy first air, lemon tart, peach and pear, white strawberry – it is appealingly clear. The palate is tight, promising; it holds a flan-brioche flavour, with a near juniper tang in it. Good acidity keeps it ticking over kindly; it will show more from spring 2014. It may close down, but can live. Its matter is very stylish, the gras a real winner. 14°. 2027-29  Oct 2013

2011 ()

glinty, pale yellow. Has a dried apricot-peach, pineapple crumble aroma with ripe banana present. The palate sets out on a flavour of banana (which should disappear) and pear, then it tones down, becomes monolithic just when one is hoping for variety, expansion. Tame, rather commercial wine that ends on a light note of flan. 14°. €21. 50% oak, 50% vat this year. To 2021.  Dec 2012

2010

bright, pale yellow. Fresh greengage-pear drop aroma, a shade sulphurous, apricot and dried fruits present, too. Crisp outer to the palate, with fat inside. This straddles food and aperitif drinking; perhaps it is a bit sturdy, as a traditional style wine, for the apero. The length is fine, the finish solid, with some tannin and heat there. 14°. 2021-23 April 2011

2008 ()

promising, pale yellow, green glints. Perky, flan-custard backing to a white fruit, peach outer aroma, a little beeswax, almost the air of Marsanne here (tasted blind, but that is what it resembles). Dried fruits lead the palate, has a sound depth of gras; the texture is rounded at the end, but retains a fine thread of freshness. Quietly classy – not big weight wine, but all working parts are in order. The finish will be more expansive from mid-2011. 2020-22 Nov 2009

2007 ()

yellow tints in the robe; has a baked fruit tart, pineapple chunks aroma with a little vanilla and high tone – it is a bit demanding. The palate shows a big, full and modern wine with plenty of guts. At present, it is enclosed by its oak. The one moment of liberty is the aftertaste, where the richness breaks out and the taste becomes honeyed. Wait until 2010. 2022-24 Nov 2008

2005

some marked yellow in robe. Exotic, coconut style bouquet, there are nutty aromas, with hints of crème patisserie. Rich, stone fruit flavour at start, is a solid wine. Seems like late picked Grenache Blanc on show here, with a slight oxidative side. Traditional school approach, this can tick along. 2020-22 November 2006

2002

bottled two days ago: compact, rather sweet aroma. The palate fruit is rather sticky, a difficult cohesion about it. 67% vat, 33% used oak casks. Best to try autumn 2003. To 2011 March 2003

2001 ()

medium depth bouquet, a little sweetness of fruit. The palate gras is also a bit sweet, and it isn’t entirely convincing. From spring 2004. 2012-15 March 2003