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The Wines

33% each Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette (all late 1970s) from sandy soils on Roumiguières (N-E, near village), concrete vat fermented at 13°-15°C, concrete vat raised 3-4 months, malo blocked, “drink as an “aperitif, or with fish, shellfish”, 2,500-3,500 b

2016 ()

pale, flinty yellow, a bright robe. Has an overt, zappy, fresh nose that gives pear with lime-mandarin, orange peel airs, white flowers, a burst of fennel. The palate runs with lively purpose, holds fluid content, some shapely, easy gras richness, all upbeat with late spicing, ginger, and sound, clear grip on the finish. This is low temperature fermentation Châteauneuf blanc, and I would prefer it when it is just touching its second stage for more variety and nuance. It’s racy as it stands now. It will be liked now, but will be more interesting from spring 2019. 13.5°. 2023-24 Sept 2017

2014

yellow robe with a little thickness in the colour. The nose is attractive – pear, white peach, dried fruits, salted notes. The palate starts in elegant fashion, gives soft white fruits with enjoyable fleshy, plump content, ending roundly. This is a cosy southern orb of charm, is gentle and stylish, with lovely fine notes near the end. Aniseed touches, fennel suggest Clairette – hence the smooth texture and elegance. There is light grip, tang on the aftertaste, peach and nuttiness there. Table wine, really suited to local Provençal dishes, and very good with a daurade now. It has amplified over the winter. 13.5°. 50 cl bottle at La Maisouneta, good value restaurant, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 2021-22 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 **(*) pale yellow robe. Salty, still quite strict aroma here – it is very much on fruit with cut, white plum, greengage, and a tang of licorice. The palate is easy to drink, if a little lightweight in a southern Rhône context. One of the now much found cool, clipped wings whites, where the objective is to rival the finesse of the folks up north. The finish drifts, is tame as the wine falls away. 13.5°. 2,500 b. €15. Bottled Jan 2015. 2019-20  Oct 2015

2008

pale yellow, bright. Reticent bouquet – aniseed, hazelnut, nougat, a touch of white fruits. Subdued fruit at first, but moves up a gear with air, opens out. Traditional style, quite firm on the palate, needs food. Balance is OK. Decant this. From mid-2010. 2016-17 Dec 2009

2007 ()

gracious, pale yellow robe; the bouquet is sympa – there is a gracious display buttery, lime white fruits, with pockets of spice. The palate has a white stone fruit flavour, and acidity that I take stems from the Bourboulenc: it is a wine of some drive and purpose. The aftertaste is clean, and this would make quite a zappy aperitif, since it is intrinsically a full affair, but has the outer energy. Modern, well made Châteauneuf white, that is also wide on the finish. 2018-20 Nov 2008