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The Wines

50-80% Grenache blanc (Cabrières, N, 1950s), La Cabane (1970s), 15-45% Clairette (Cabrières, N, 1950s), 5-10% Bourboulenc (Cabrières, N, 1950s), soils are sandy-limestone with galet stones, 50% steel vat, 50% used 228-litre oak cask fermented at 14-16°C, raised 6-7 months, daily lees stirring (until 2014 was mostly raised in vat, a little oak), malo blocked, “in the past there was normally no wood, since I seek freshness, drink as aperitif, with fish, cheese”, 800-2,200 b

2018 ()

clear, pale yellow; the nose lies low in the glass, has a note of greengage plum, aniseed, a drift of citrus and vanilla. The palate is a little on the edge, has an acidity that is noticeable, with medium weight content attached. It lacks real definition in its flavour, but has a certain vinous quality where texture takes a more prominent role. Leave this until 2023, and I suspect there will be more to appreciate. 13.5°. 2,200 b. 60% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 10% Bourb. Bottled Feb 2019. €24. 2029-30 Oct 2019

2017 ()

fine yellow robe; lightly buttery, gently floral bouquet here – nectarine, pear, a touch of melon, salt in the mix. It’s an elegant start. The palate flows with attractive ease, holds also stylish, very trim content with notes of aniseed, nuttiness towards the finish. This is a sophisticated, graceful Châteauneuf blanc, has been well made, will please. 13.5°. 1,800 b. 60% Gren bl, 30% Clair. 10% Bourb. Bottled Feb 2018. €23. 2025-26 Oct 2018

2016 ()

clear yellow robe. The nose is attractive – appealing fruits led by apricot and peach come along, with spicing and a little citrus freshness. There is good charm on the bouquet – very inviting it is. This skims along on the palate, with oak-vanilla, nut paste overtures around its mild gras content. The white plum fruit flavour is mild. It ends with good life. Marks for style, and it’s light n’easy enough for a sophisticated aperitif. Several hours’ air brings out caramel-oak on the aftertaste. 13.5°. 2022-23 Aug 2017

2015

yellow robe. The nose gives an elegant air of hazelnut, smokiness also, and ripe nectarine, greengage. The palate has cooked citrus influences on the attack, runs directly, with a fine line of freshness, white flowers towards the close. This works well on its twinning of southern content and refined clarity. The finish has a gently oily texture, and sets it up well for sea bass, turbot and other noble fish. 13.5°. 1,600 b. 50% Gren bl, 40% Clair, 10% Bourb. Bottled Feb 2016. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014

shiny, bright yellow robe. The nose is broad and weighted, if not showing great detail today, possible pear and peach present. The palate holds a comfortable gras richness, and runs with clarity towards the finish. It has ways to go, combines a sensible ripeness with an understated freshness. Suited to turkey, rabbit dishes, also fine fish such as turbot, soft cheeses. 13.5°. 1,600 b. €21. 60% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 10% Bourb. Bottled March 2015. 2023-25  Oct 2015 

2013

bright, translucent colour. Steely apple and pear aroma. Slight oxidative nuance on the palate. It finishes in a brisk and sharp manner. Light and aggressive in demeanour. 2019-2020 JL Oct 2014

2011

mild yellow; wax, nut airs along with glazed fruits, pear drop sweets, en easy roundness in the nose. There is a light display of fruit on the palate with an emerging bitter, more charry tone after half way. There is a lack of real depth through the palate. The finale is lightweight. Short-term wine. 14°. €19. 2017-18. 50% GB, 45% Cl, 5% B, some oak, bottled Feb 2012 this year.  Dec 2012

2010

pale yellow robe, legs. The nose is nice and free, offers stylish, elegant fruit – lime with a floating quality that invites aperitif drinking, also shows spice and white pepper, is crisp. The palate is more deeply founded than the nose, has a grainy, earthy note, a southern grounding. It ends on hazelnut paste flavour after a citronelle, verbena connection that is “up” on the attack. A wine of two halves. It is mild, friendly, a bit limited. Decant. 14°. €19 at the cellars. To 2018-20 Dec 2011

2009 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – white crop in the red wine

2007

pale robe; citrus, fresh and appealing bouquet – nice and fine. The palate is similar – has a steel grip from its steel raising. Tangy length to this. Ends clearly. 13.5°. To 2013-14. “Good with fish or as an aperitif,” Albin Jacumin. Dec 2009