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The Wines

30-40% Clairette blanche, 35-40% Bourboulenc, 10-20% Grenache blanc, 10% Roussanne, 5-10% Clairette rose from 70% galet stone soils, 30% limestone soils at Chapouin/La Gardiole (N-E), Coudoulet (N-E), concrete vat fermented 17-21 days at 18°C, vat raised 4-5 months, malo blocked, organic wine, 6,000-7,000, can be up to 30,000 b

2019 ()

steady yellow robe; the nose is rounded, has a sunny curve, discreet pineapple, a touch of cooked lemon, comfortable depth. It’s not showing a lot now, but has foundation. The palate has a savoury style, presents a broad front with a wave of rolling richness and its suave texture. It lengthens with a sure hand, is a child of warm lands, is solid, land-based wine with a firm generosity, builds into a full finale. It has white raisin, herbal infused tea notes, the second half wide. It’s weighty, but genuine. 14.5°. 2030-32 May 2020

2017

rather full yellow; broad, buttery nose, shows butterscotch. The palate is fat and rolling, a little charged in the vintage vein. It has a gras content that is a bit sticky towards the finish, with some tannin there. It’s plain, a yeoman of a wine, the degree on the high side for its balance. It definitely needs food, rich dishes. 14.9°. 8,000 b. 40% Bourb, 30% Clair blanche, 10% Gren bl, 10% Rouss, 10% Clairette rose. Bottled Feb 2018. €18. 2024-26 Oct 2018

2015

firm yellow robe. The nose is dumb but pretty well filled: there is a discreet air of nuts such as cashew, and a fennel, camomile tea, white peach back drop. The palate is shapely, reserved, interesting: there are moments of greengage plum fruit with precise acidity and accompanying gras. This is stylish and true white Châteauneuf, nothing flashy at all about it. It can be decanted, and also left until spring 2017. 14.5°. 6,000 b. 40% Bourb, 30% Clair bl, 10% Clair rose, 10% Gren bl, 10% Rouss. €17.90 at the cellars. Bottled March 2016. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014

yellow robe. Peach with apricot front aroma, a light backdrop of ginger. The palate has a comfortable depth and spreads agreeably across the palate. The finish is slightly bitter, evoking orange marmalade, something that falls apart from the main body of the wine. Fair length. 14°. 40% Clair, 40% Bourb, 10% Gren bl, 10% Rouss. Bottled Feb 2015. €15.50 at the cellars. 2021-22  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale yellow colour. Lively, well fruited nose, the aroma resembling peach and pear. Discernible gras richness and fruit weight on the palate. The fruit holds to the finish. Drink now with food but will keep going. 14.5°. 2022-23 JL Oct 2014

2009

mild yellow; spiced, lightly nutty aroma with some scope to develop. The palate builds into a bonbon, brioche, fruit tart flavour with local glow as it ends firmly. Has a pretty fresh finish, with tannin implicit. Slightly tame length. From mid-2011. Decant. 14°. 2018-19. €13.80. Oct 2010

2007 ()

mid-depth yellow; stinky, rather heavy nose – ripe white fruits, fruit on the turn – it droops rather. The palate has rich core – is a wine of ripeness, cards on the table. White fruit lies at its heart, has muscle in it, and a hazelnut, light flan finale. There is power late, bonbon sweets in the flavour. Could have more lift. Chciken dishes, food rather than aperitif. 2015-16 Nov 2008

2006 ()

steady yellow colour; has a ripe lime aroma, that comes with some tang and hazelnut – perhaps some SO2 floating around. This suggest the palate will be direct. There is a little florality in a delicate bouquet here. The palate works as an aperitif – it holds a mandarin orange flavour with some late grip; there are down-the-line citrus flavours with a degree of richness that helps to provide some roundness. Its acidity, indeed some spritz, is evident. Agreeable for solo drinking – it is not a wine of any great structure, and fades a bit on the end. Rather an induced wine. 14°. To 2011. Oct 2008

2005 ()

pear mixes with apricot, nuts in a clean, nice and clear bouquet, a little bonbon also – makes it rounded and pretty. Rounded texture towards the mid-palate, but some burnt outer edges that settle after a while. Lacks sustained depth, making it narrow towards the finish. White fruit with a little tang of apricot, and a thread of late alcohol on the aftertaste. Not sure how good this zone is for whites, unless low yields, old vines and probably less hot and dry vintages. The pretty bouquet is ahead of the palate. To 2010 July 2007