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The Wines

20-45% Clairette blanche, 10-20% Clairette rose (mid-1960s), 25-35% Grenache blanc, 20-30% Bourboulenc (mid-1970s), 0-10% Grenache gris from Terres Blanches (N), Grandes Serres (S), Les Bosquets (N), Cabrières (N-W), Mont Redon (N-W), La Gardiole (N-E), fermented at 15°C, 75-85% steel vat, 15-25% cask handling - first two varieties raised 15-20% new 550-litre oak casks, rest in steel vat for 5 months, malo blocked, 3,600-6,000 b

2019 ()

shiny, rather fine yellow; the nose carries a note of reduction, so air will help it. There is a discreet pear, flan tone supporting it, the fruit ripe in style. The palate presents a nicely complete opening, with mixed white fruits, compote, pear, with drifts of salt emerging towards the finish, which has a lip smacking, full nature. It’s not quite yet en route, so can be left until autumn 2020, and decanting is advised. It can show well at a second stage, and the length can increase, too. 13.5°. 2027-29 May 2020

2018 ()

slightly opaque yellow robe, makes me wonder if there is Clairette rose in this [tasted blind]; the nose has a discreet air of infused tea, grapiness, with a note of liquid honey, shows a pleasing oiliness of the South. The palate holds appealing, svelt gras, has a nutty, mixed white fruits flavour, its texture smooth. This has character, is for la table, and will go well with tuna, sea bass, holds well on the finish, salted touches there. Decanting not a problem. 13°5. 3,600 b. 25% Gren bl, 25% Clairette blanche, 20% Clairette rose, 20% Bourb, 10% Grenache gris: a good mix. Bottled Jan 2019. €28.50. 2027-29 Oct 2019

2017 ()

fine yellow robe; the nose mixes some herbes de Provence, aniseed, has local colour. The palate is cool, threaded with a chewy style of white fruits, some snatches of saltiness, rockiness along the path. There are hints of dryness in a slightly rugged Châteauneuf blanc here. Food a must. It can evolve, so may be more smooth, varied and enjoyable from 2021. Its local nature is an asset. 13.5°. 5,000 b. 25% Clair, 25% Gren bl, 20% Clair rose, 20% Bourb, 10% Grenache gris. Bottled Jan 2018. €28.50. 2029-31 Oct 2018

2016

pale yellow; there is orange zest with a couch of peanut paste on the nose. It’s a low temperature fermentation style of bouquet. Lime-citrus airs dominate it, and it has a hint of camomile. The palate works on a zesty, direct hand out of tight peach, white plum flavours, aniseed drops on the finish, indicating Clairette. It’s uptempo Châteauneuf-du-Pape without obvious gras, full of the now in vogue “tension”. I find this fails to articulate the superior soils of Châteauneuf as fully as it could, and a Cairanne blanc would give it a run for its money. There is light grip on the finish. It may be under its bottling influence, hence dumb. Try from autumn 2017. 13.5°. 2026-29 July 2017

2015

yellow robe, good sheen. The nose is broad, lucid, still reserved, marked by peach, camomile-aniseed (suggestive of Clairette, is being tasted blind), lightly honeyed airs, an oiliness of the south. The palate kicks off stylishly, bears white fruits with a sweet gras emerging towards the finish. Its acidity is fine, the freshness well captured and defined. The finish is nourishing, brings in fennel, thyme, local colour, is well rounded. I find some STGT here. It conforms absolutely to its profile of the three varieties involved – the blend works very well. 13.5°. 5,000 b. 45% Clair, 35% Gren bl, 20% Bourb. 2028-30 Sept 2016

2014

clear yellow robe. The nose is quiet, gives a slight vanilla and floral aroma. The palate is lined with a flavour of dried fruits such as apricot, has a little honey-nut late presence. It is a little light, so drink as an aperitif or with mild flavoured dishes. 13.5°. 4,000 b. Bottled Feb 2015. €23.50. 2022-23  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale colour, almost translucent. Attractive aroma of pear and citrus on the nose. This is clear cut and fresh. Has a pear and stone fruit flavour. The fruit is juicy, round and precise. Drinking well now but will age. 2023-25  JL Oct 2014

2012

shiny, fine yellow colour. Salt tang gives the nose a first, bracing air, a mild apricot, lemon peel aroma behind that, appealing clarity and expectation. Could serve for the aperitif. The palate connects well to the nose – it offers enjoyable fruit, quite acidity, the gras shapely. Good length. It centres on pear fruit, nectarine. Bonny, w.o.w. wine, although there is a gain in sweetly aromatic notes at the end, also setting it up for foods such as a confit of tomatoes, soft cheese. A good example of 2012, and modern, polished Châteauneuf blanc. 13.5°. 2023-25  Oct 2013

2011 ()

fine yellow, legs. Has an enjoyable aroma pf lime, spice, pear – this is a good, open, fresh start. The palate is close-knit, under wraps, as if moving into a second phase now. The palate is free rolling, has a juicy flow, and an attractive, supple texture. Varied flavours will emerge as it evolves, and it can now be left until winter 2013. 13.5°. €21, bottled Feb 2012, 4,000 b this year. 2020-22  Dec 2012  Previously Feb 2012 ***(*) pale yellow, flint tone. Has a smoky, fine nose with light airs of flan substance and a mix of honey and flowers. Attractive gras richness on the palate – access to this is easy, it lengthens well. Good length, nice late grip. Gives a good aperitif. Spot of late heat in it. Continues the good run of whites from this domaine. 2019-21. 45% Clair, 35% Gren bl, 20% Bourb this year. Feb 2012

2010

mild yellow; the nose is typical – breeze of the garrigue, small flowers, lime and light honey, a pretty Provençal debut. The palate is wide, holds plenty of ingrained gras and develops firmly as it goes through the palate. The finale is complete and compact. Good style and truth here, a touch STGT with its clean lines and pure herb-fruit expressions. An excellent ensemble, a long wine. 13.5°. Has zoomed along post bottling. 13.5°. Retains the tradition of STGT wines here, notably this white. 2026-28 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 *** pale yellow. Harmonious, floral, white plum tart air with soft hazelnut influence. Green apple debut to the palate; a wine of simple virtues, a soft texture. Bit of aniseed on the finish – clear, rounded there. Bottled one week. To 2022. March 2011

2009

fine yellow robe; has a welcoming, bonny nose that mixes apricot and honey airs, with vanilla – it offers variety and is really fresh and light touch. The palate holds secure white fruit at its core, the gras is measured, not showy, all is in order. It runs consecutively through the palate, mixing freshness and content. The finish is fine. Really good white Châteauneuf. It can be a full aperitif, or is suited to quality fish such as turbot or Coquille St Jacques, soft cheeses. It ends on nougat and honey, then a flourish of pear. Lots to enjoy. I sense it could be closing a little. Has balance, harmony and local ID, STGT wine. Has made strides in last 14 months. 2023-25 Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ** yellow, green touches. Hazelnut-apricot aroma, a bit of cardboard, so decant this. The palate gives dried fruits, has a safe mid-palate, but lacks real zap of expression after half way. It continues on a plain, light honey-brioche baked bread run. Final notes reflect white raisin. The second half is flat. 13.5°. 2019-21 Oct 2010

2008

mild yellow, flint colour. Has a honey, light pear drop aroma, mandarin fruit comes through and holds up well: it is welcoming. The palate has a waxen, almond flavour – an interesting wine here, with a varied palate. There is a bit of burn within, though, that leaves it rather heated. It ends freshly, length is OK. Apricot and aniseed on the aftertaste – fish such as monkfish, sea bass good with this. 2018-19. Nov 2009

2007

steady yellow colour; varied nose – lime tart, menthol, some mystery. Air brings out a dart of dried fruits, floral and buttery notions. This has an enveloping, encompassing richness on the attack, like a squeezy satin cushion. It has a suave bonbon sweets, butter flavour. As it airs, it shows a little muscle and tightens, without losing its curve of appeal or its fleshy nature. Beau vin, very much w.o.w. A real treat with refined foods such as simply cooked sole or monkfish, or maybe Meunière, and a wild mushroom or cèpe mousse, where it took the earthy saltiness in its stride. 13°. 2017-19 Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 *** mild, even aroma, with lime and traces of honeysuckle flowers – is a tender do. The palate has clean-cut white fruits – this is nicely weighted and the length is sound. Clear, balanced wine, good for aperitif. 2016-18. 45% Clairette, 35% Grenache blanc, 20% Bourboulenc this year. June 2008

2006

creamy, rounded and comfortable aroma with light peach and flowers. Very bonny palate, is a mix of white fruits, honey, runs along a generous road. Has a nice richness that runs all through it. Tidy, circular finish, this has a lot of charm. 2016-19. “This is rich. I put more Bourboulenc, around 30%, in the 2005, and I rate 2005 as a better wine to keep, for around 6 to 8 years,” N. Boiron Nov 2007 Previously Dec 2006 (example – 50% Clairette, 40% Grenache Blanc, 10% Bourboulenc, the vat only portion) generally rich, open nose. Clean fruit straight off the bat, wide and pronounced, there is volume here, the length is good. “There’s good balance in the 2006 white,” N.Boiron

2005

lime and salty aroma, with some melted butter from its richness, thanks to the Grenache blanc – the saltiness is marked on the final stages of the bouquet. Crisp attack with rather a tight mid-palate, then emerges with a honeyed, rather fritzy-spritzy finish. Apricot skin and zest on the finale. Seems made for early drinking. Reasonable with seafood. Overall is disjointed. April 2007

2004 ()

pale yellow, lime glints; the nose is evolving nicely – gives a “high”, damp white fruits aroma, a layer of high tone wax also, indicating southern ripeness. The palate is delicate, measured. It runs along with quiet white fruits present, its length is OK. It isn't arresting, but with precise food partners, will do well – grilled bass with fennel in it, herb flavoured dishes, even grilled veal in its own juice – since it has a little bite in it. There is a touch of now calm heat on the finish, and it is “only” 13.5°, which adds to its appeal. To 2019-22 Sept 2009

2001 ()

a little caramel on bouquet - its age has brought some white truffle and iodine. Pretty palate – harmonious and very good cut, shows dried fruits with a nutty underlay, is still fresh. Very classic in its lively 2001 vintage style. Palate is fresher than the bouquet, and there is a lot of richness within it. “I would eat Coquilles St Jacques (scallops) – either gratiné or in a light cream sauce, or a sea bass." Maurice Boiron. A salmon tartar with this broadened the wine and added a salty depth to it. 35% Clairette, 35% Grenache Blanc, 30% Bourboulenc. 2019-21 Nov 2006

1999 No Rating

quite pale; zesty, springy, very primary nose. Palate is raw, rather violent. Not for me. Bottled this week. For the first time, 25% new oak for a mix of the Clairette and the Grenache blanc. Fermented at 17°C, finishing at 21°C. 3,300 b. Feb 2000

1997

½ bottle: medium yellow; rather nutty air, with a hint of lime – it is aromatic. The palate is tight, has good sinew in it. The style is tight, and it together, close-knit. Very clean. The length is sound, its matter enough to go on. Flint notes on the aftertaste. 2007-09 Oct 1998

1996 ()

½ bottle: medium to pale yellow. Drifting nose of light dried fruit, a little honeysuckle. Just starting to open on the palate, is quite tender, holds white fruits. The style is firm rather than easy, and has more bite than the 1997. “We reorganised the whites around 1983 – we used to keep at 15-17°C throughout the fermentation, but now we let the vat revert towards 20°C at the end to get more richness out of the Grenache blanc; the cool start to it gains aromas,” Maurice Boiron. 2009-11 Oct 1998