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The Wines

from Les Pradel/Coteau de l’Ange (1902 Grenache), Cabrières (1915-1935 Grenache, sand with some limestone-clay, a lot of galet stones), can also include Canssaud (Grenache, Cinsault), total 80-85% Grenache, 5-10% Mourvèdre, 5-10% Syrah, 5% mixed, incl white grapes such as Picardan, destemmed, oak vat & 5-10 new 228-litre oak casks vinified each year, can have pumping overs, then aged new-8 year 228-litre oak casks, 12 hl barrels 18-21 months (new oak up to 20%), unfined, unfiltered, 10-20,000 b


(casks/large barrel) immensely dark robe, almost all black. The bouquet is a sturdy, oaked do, with a firm black Morello cherry fruit aroma at its centre, notes of black olives; it mixes, for now, the cellar and the land. The palate draws on regal reserves of sève [sap] from the old vines, their effortless, über suave richness, with prime, ripe tannins putting a layer of velvet into the finish. The texture is silken, and the depth comes from within, thanks to the old vines. There is fantastic, gliding richness on the second half, the length exceptional. This is a treat, a wine to leave until 2026, say, which will allow the oak to infuse further - if you open it earlier, you are committing a crime, since there will be too much oak. Its elements from the vineyard are top notch.  Another wine for a magnum/jereboam to celebrate an important day from 2019 in 25 years’ time. 2050-52 Nov 2020


(casks/large barrel) very dark robe; has a weighty, deep nose, on black raisins, prunes, mulled blueberries. There’s a hint of musky flowers, which helps. The palate is broad, immediate, seems fuelled with Mourvèdre, is on scale over discretion. It assembles tarry moments towards the finish, in with a flavour of soaked black cherries, a hint of oak. This is a little hollow. There is glow on the aftertaste, and I find it a bit tough from extraction. 15°. 16,000 b. €55. From 2023-24. 2044-46 Oct 2019

2017 ()

dark red; raspberry fruit leads a stylish nose which is floral and pure, has charm and a Pinote angle to it. The palate gives elegant red fruit, content, with squeezy tannins, a munchy close. This has good upholstery, sustains, and shows typical Châteauneuf qualities, good life in its juice, an aromatic tone. It’s unhurried, stylish, cleanly made, and will become more local bit by bit, with fruit quality central to it. 15°. 14,000 b. €57 at the cellars. 2042-44 Feb 2020 Previously Oct 2018 ****(*) (large barrel/casks, bottling May 2019) full, dark red. Has a brewed, beefy aroma, a thorough depth, reserves to come, to emerge. There are soaked black fruits, black olives airs present. The palate bears fluid, sleek richness, a concerted flavour of black cherries, the tannins still a little on the outside. This has good heart, with saline moments in the delivery. Leave until 2022 for more tannin and oak infusion. This is promising, has some stylish content, decent balance. There are pockets of oak on the nose, also the palate. 15°. 11,000 b. €55. 2040-42 Oct 2018

2015 ()

(casks) dark robe. The nose has an interesting intricacy, gives iodine, sea shore airs with blueberry and cassis fruit. It’s pretty deep. The palate also has an enjoyable thread of salted content, with life in its travel. The black fruit rushes around generously. Good southern wine with dashes of northern freshness. It’s good and complete, well balanced, shaping up well. From 2020. 2038-41 Sept 2016 GB Fine & Rare Wines £409 12 b i/b www.frw.co.uk customerservice@frw.co.uk +44(0)207 089 7400 

2013 ()

sturdy red robe. The bouquet has inner strength, gives a cooked large red berry, mulberry aroma, a lighter note of raspberry in the second tier, with oak charcoal. The palate bears gracious, filled content, with a bonny freedom and ping of clarity. This goes well long, really extends with a gloved outer, and a well packed inner. The oak is absorbing well, and only really shows on the late moments now. 15°. Leave until 2020 if you want more return to roots, away from its oak raising. 2036-39  Oct 2015

2012 ()

(casks, bottling June 2014) dark robe; the nose has several airs contributing to it – baked, brioche bread, cooked red fruits, a line of spirit power, licorice and sweet herbs. The shape is upright here, closed in. It bears a direct line of subdued fruit for now, starting on low-key red cherry, followed by grainy tannins with spark in them on the end, which is crunchy. Not yet smoothed out. From mid-2016. 14.5°. 2033-36  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(casks) shiny, quite dark red. This has a genuine Grenache red berry fruit air with a smoky, herb backdrop, and traces of licorice and fungal notes. There are minor oak traces. This has good local character, is a typical Châteauneuf-du-Pape bouquet with a potentially very good, mixed bag of aromas set to emerge. The palate has a nicely loose, open roll of red fruit, with flinty, minty sideshows. It ends on a rubbed stones cut and freshly clear red fruit. The tannins and their dusty outcrops need another 2 years. The menthol, mint finale is very local – this lingers long in the glass. It will be STGT from 2016 or so. 2032-35  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(casks) bright, dark robe, legs down the glass. Has a chunky, rather chocolate-like nose, is scaled up, shows black raisin as well. It is a little clinical, not really displaying a lot of fruit now. The palate has a tasty, black cherry flow along the palate, a savoury affair it is. It is meaty towards the finish, ends roundly and textured, with tannins inset. This needs time, can get there. The aftertaste is chalky, chiselled. From 2015-16. 2036-39 Dec 2011


(casks) full, red plus black robe; ripe, glowing red fruit aroma – there is plenty of sun here, traces of spirit. Well integrated palate that holds polished fruit with freshness inside the fruit. Good length, ends on a crisp licorice tang. It is well presented, and needs leaving for three years to allow the tannins to get inside it – the finish is tough for now. 2034-36 Oct 2010

2008 No Rating



full red robe with purple in it. The bouquet is smoked and oaky – there is snap from that, also pepper, licorice and a couch of herbs and baked stones. The palate sets off with a fringe of oak that frames a squeezy red fruit with licorice notions within. The length is sound, even if that is propped up by the oak for now. From 2014 – this wine always needs a good, long time to integrate and gain more local feel. Has a good heart. To be bottled May 2009. 2032-34 March 2009 Previously Nov 2008 *** (casks) fair depth red colour; herbal, baked stones aroma – red jam such as redcurrant; the fruit holds up well. The palate gets off to a gentle start – its slightly liqueur red fruit flavour is still a little taut in texture. The Grenache at its heart is quite potent, just under wraps. It ends on a pushy note for now – has fire in its belly. Can move up a level. From mid-2010. 2029-32 Nov 2008


dark, full matt red robe; ample, wide, sustained depth in the bouquet – the air of soaked fruit, cocoa from its oak. The palate has oak woven into it, and the style of a modern vinification wine. Its lines are clear, and it picks up licorice as it goes, along with further oak influences. It ends cohesively, is collected on the finish – good late pebbly moments there. From mid-2011. 14.5°. 2029-32 “We didn`t do any pumping overs this year because the wine was already well concentrated,” Daniel Coulon. Dec 2009.

2005 ()

good condition, dark red; the nose releases raisin airs before a sweet prune, cherry cake aroma, li orice and low-key violet also. The fruit is even-toned and balanced on the palate – it sits within big matter that shows its meaning via grip and tannin and oak late flourishes. The oak is well blended in with so much rich core content. Solid wine that at heart is fine, and not that obviously Grenache-influenced (tasted blind). Good potential, a wine that will please as it ages. 14.5°. From 2011. 2030-32 June 2008 Previously Nov 2006 ****(*) (cask) dark red with some black in the robe. Tight nose dominated by a ripe grapes aroma. Full palate, with firm fruit and oak-led tannins. Good end juice, is herbal. At a smoky stage now from its cask raising. From 2010-11. 2029-31 March 2007 Previously Nov 2006 ****(*) dark colour; creamy, black berry, roasted and oaked aroma that is open and savoury and promises plenty for the future. Accomplished black berry fruit with smooth flow. The oak and tannins need leaving until 2010. Well structured to live. The balance is good beyond the oak. This will sing a sweet song, is gracious, Beau Vin. 2026-28 Nov 2006


rather hidden bouquet – I can detect black berry fruit, coffee grains. Tight but elegant start to palate – there is a good progression, as the wine gains “weight”. Interesting, shows the character of the vintage, and is made with a sure touch. Palate is more open than bouquet. Good sinew, some end heat, no oak signals today. Beau vin. Esp 2009 on. 2025-28 March 2007 Previously Oct 2006 ***(*) dark robe; brambly, oily aroma that will be varied by mid-2008, at a tight stage now, but I reckon it could get funky with some age. Full palate, a little on the alcohol now, with subdued core matter. Fruit is a pungent red berry. A solid, chunky wine that has decent balance. Licorice-tar finale. Esp 2009 on. 2024-26 Previously July 2005 (cask) **** solid aroma, will become gamey. Black berry, ripe fruit flavour, tight texture from the oak (was fermented in new oak because cask newly bought in 2004), wide towards finish. 2010 onwards. 2024-27 Cabrières (cask) black fruits, violet aromas. Supple, soft flavour, fruit is juicy, squeezy, really tasty, frank and well-filled. Licorice at end, some oak. Final assemblage Boisrenard likely ****(*), 22-25 yr wine. July 2005


still full, quite dark red plum robe; there are oaked, thus chocolate, barbecue smoke and charcoal top airs with some prune and ripe black fruit inside. This is just starting its second stage variation – damp woods, olives. The palate still comes in a square-shouldered shape; however the black fruit runs along for a middle phase before the entry of the tannin and oak that serve to close it down. There is good core richness here, and if left, the wine will gain in harmony. Has quiet class, which is an achievement in this most extreme of vintages. From spring 2010. 2028-31 June 2008 Previously July 2005 *** dark, cherry, beef stock, smoked bouquet, persists, has a herbal content. Attack of black stone fruits, plenty of depth, tannins grow and declare. Licorice/oak aftertaste. Tannins need four years. 2026-29 July 2005


red robe still nicely full; despite being open 90 minutes, it has a pongy, reductive nose, with a toffee-treacle mix from its oaking, and something of the sweaty saddle. Red fruits lurk within, which is no doubt a relief for the reader. The palate fruit is clearer, has an intense core, is a gentleman with muscles, mixing polish and brawn. It is clearly textured until the arrival of oak and tannins on the end – they require another two years or so. The length is sound. I reckon it will be better than this – since there is a good tune of fruit inside it. International for now. From 2011. 14.5°. 2029-32 Nov 2008


a robe of dark plum suggests non-Grenache grapes in this. The wine has a compact aroma and reflects some oaking, and an ingrained, steady black fruiting, with crackly black pepper that is moving towards a violet stage and some gaminess. The palate starts with black, peppered fruits that possess an organised, compact texture – they are still tight-knit. Traces of oak at the end lend a slightly firmer, drier note. This is still working itself out. Its length is good, and the oak largely well handled. It is a touch tight, even tough now, but I reckon it can make it: try from 2010 for more wholesome integration and open pleasure. Rated on its potential for 2010. 2024-26 June 2008 Previously Nov 2002 **** pretty dense colour; hazelnut, cherry fruit lead in an overall reserved nose. The palate is rather brewed up, comes on a Big Scale. Oak is mixed in with a lot of volume, the tannins are overt, as is the oak. Its taste resembles chocolate, and it is distant from its terroir in this state. From 2007-8 to allow it to free up. 2022-24 Nov 2002, Paris


attractive and full dark red; cleancut, slightly dusty aroma that needs to disengage and open; it is red fruited but reticent, tucked away. There is also a light meaty side, and almond nutes together, unusually. The very clear fruit start captures 1999 well; the quality of the tannins is also very high – they lend a shoulder to the fruit. This is moving into an elegant phase. It has an almost Bordeaux-like structure through the palate, and would appeal to only occasional Rhône drinkers. The aftertaste expresses cherry fruit. Can still be left, drink from 2008. It needs to show a bit more terroir to really hit the mark, but the passage of time can only help to move it in that direction. 14.5°. 2025-28  Nov 2006

1997 ()

this is singing just now, has praiseworthy freshness to the extent of being a w.o.w.  wine, even though it is 10+ years old. The bouquet is oily, earthy – the red berry fruit within is clear, shows garrigue, is broad. The palate fruit hints at secondary moments, comes with a small underlay of game. There are a crispness and content that I wouldn’t associate with 1997, however – the fruit is always present, doesn’t dip. Elegant wine. Good with Osso Bucco, for example, suits refined flavours. 2021-24  Oct 2007, Copenhagen

1995 ()

(casks, bottling in one year) very purple-black, dense robe. Big heat and dark aromas on the nose, is ripe and southern in tone. The palate scale is vast at the start, what a Big hitter. There is plenty of power but it hangs on to a run of black fruit though it, to its credit, and shows a lot of juice on the finish. Tannins are all over it at present, including new oak also. Heady wine, with very much a Cuvée Spéciale feel. From 2002. 2023-26  Oct 1996


quite dark robe; warm, expressive nose that is showing outwardly already, has nice jam fruit airs, good warmth. The palate links well – it is warm, bears attractive fruit on the attack, is rounded before a more weighty, tannin-marked finale. Bonny persistence here, into a clean finish. It is not too ambitious in its making, and comes across well. From 2000. 14°. 2020-22 Oct 1996