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The Wines

25-30% Clairette blanche, 25% Bourboulenc, 22-25% Roussanne, 20% Grenache blanc, 2-3% Picpoul blanc, Picardan from sandy, clay-limestone, galet stone soils on Cabrières (N-W), La Nerthe (S-E), Terres Blanches (N), fermented at 18-20°C, raised 80-90% concrete vat, 10-20% 3-4 year oak casks 6 months on fine lees, malo blocked, organic, biodynamic wine, “drink young, or after a few years”, 9-14,000 b

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; the bouquet is discreetly sturdy, lined with white fruits, has fat. The palate has a sparky flavour of lemon, dried fruits, a little camomile present. It finishes freshly, and is just moving into shape. Its freshness will help it to partner fish such as cod, haddock. It’s quite refined, a little brief. 14°. 11,000 b. 30% Clair bl, 25% Bourb, 22% Rouss, 20% Gren bl, 2% Picpoul bl, 1% Picardan. Bottled Feb 2019. €36. 2025-26 Oct 2019

2017 ()

firm yellow colour; peach, note of varnish, hints of glazed fruits on the nose, which is broad. The palate bears comfy content, a squeezy feel, nice and fleshy, up for white meats, sauced dishes. It is traditional more than sleek, gathers a little acidity towards the finish. There’s just a lack of that bit more here, isn’t as refined as the leaders. 14°. 11,000 b. 30% Clairette, 25% Bourb, 22% Rouss, 20% Gren bl, 2% Picpoul bl, 1% Picardan. Bottled Feb 2018. €31. 2026-27  Oct 2018

2016 ()

fine yellow robe. The nose is attractive, pear and peach to the fore, with an assured elegance, a trim sweetness. It’s charming and well rounded. The palate is zesty, citrus filled, with a plump ball of gras at its heart. Its juice is lissom, constant, the finish quiet in expression. There’s a touch of fennel-Clairette towards the finish. I would take time with this – it can be drunk now, but it only knocks softly on its door. It is a little New wave. I’d expect it to show more over time, and maybe go to **** then. 14°. From 2019. 2025-27 July 2017

2014 ()

yellow robe. There is a nicely brewed depth to the nose, a full peach and nectarine fruit, a hint of guava, the exotic, ginger. The palate bears the vanilla of its oaking, with a flan richness, and some late aniseed, white tobacco, honeyed moments. The texture is supple. Drink with Dover sole, chicken, mushroom dishes. 13.5°. 2022-23 Oct 2015

2013

quite a sturdy yellow. Has a charming, fresh nose with lime and apricot fruit airs, the fresh subtlety appealing, a delicacy that shows how far southern whites have come, its depth gentle. The palate is also delicate, with a smooth gras running through it. There is fine acidity present, and the close is refined, all in order. I find it a bit subdued, perhaps in a dip as spring beckons – it could go longer. There is a touch of compote of white fruits and a note of aniseed clarity as it ends. The balance is fair, as is the length. It lacks flair, is mild. 14°. 2022-23  March 2015 Previously Oct 2014 *** bright robe, with a pale gold nuance. The nose is dominated by vanilla oak at the moment with a hint of stone fruit behind. The palate is full, round and supple. It holds plenty of gras and glycerol, but the wine needs to settle. The oak is less evident on the palate. 14°. From 2015. 2023-24  JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

peach and pear fruit feature in the bouquet, which is rounded. The flavour picks up on hazelnut, dried fruits, flowers and has a light citrus, salt influence to freshen it. This has grip and a gentle spread of gras richness towards the finish. It is rich enough to be suited to foods, but also elegant enough to be an aperitif. 14°. The finish will be a bit softer in 2013. Bottled March 2012, 9,000 b, 82% vat, 18% oak this year. 30% Cl, 25% B, 22% R, 20% GB, 3% Picpoul, Picardan, €26. 2022-23  May 2012

2010

rich looking, even yellow robe. Pear, cooked pear front aroma, with also airs of baked green Bramley apple and cooked bananas. The palate is firm, and closed now. It has a solid heart, is tight-knit. The flavour involves a little aniseed and white raisin, with tannin on show towards the finish. A wine built to last and to evolve. It needs decanting. From 2014. Will impress and please when set alongside good cooking. 14°. €25 at the cellars. 2026-28 Dec 2011

2009

bright yellow; brooding, solid nose – shows hazelnut, nougat, spots of honey and fennel – good start. There is a healthy mix of clarity and body on the palate, suggesting good life ahead of this. The flavour resembles dried fruits. It finishes very well – clear, firm, tangy. From late 2011 for more freedom. Can be decanted. A serious wine. 2020-22 Oct 2010

2008

bright light yellow with green tints. The bouquet is fresh on the outside, but contains sound white fruit within, delivers more weight there – apricot and varnish feature in this fragrant, graceful nose. There are clean lines along the palate as well as the nose, and the texture is sympa. There is a little burst of tannin at the end, while the length is good enough to indicate it can evolve. Its depth is subtle, this is harmonious. Food best. 2018-19 Dec 2009 Previously March 2009 *** (to be bottled next week) honey, baked apple aroma that displays a low-key sweetness. The palate has a rich style, is fat and round, and suited to drinking with food – it has richness and width. Agreeable wine. 2015-16 March 2009

2007

hazelnut, nougat and honeyed nose with a welcome spark from lime and salty notes. This is a grippy, thorough wine, with a good line of active tension running through it. Good aperitif drinking. It drifts a little towards the finish, though there are a few honey notes there. A respectable do, has withdrawn over the winter and lost that easy flow for the moment. To 2016. Feb 2009 Previously Nov 2008 **** mild yellow; candy, honey, lime, also a little honeysuckle in the nose – has a pretty variety about it, says “come here”. The palate has an attractive texture, a gracious flavour, its refinement obvious. Flows really well. Offers honey, honeycomb on the aftertaste. Good, complete wine, all as one. To 2016-17 Nov 2008

2006

pretty bouquet here, especially because it is clear, and shows dried fruits with a nutty, almost Northern Rhône air: its lightly scented pear has a very pretty, floating quality. The palate also has refined, well-presented white fruits with grip and a clear finish. There is a lightly supple, white fruits start, and there is a lot of elegance and length. Drinks well now. 2015-17 Nov 2007 Previously March 2007 ***(*) pale colour; smoky, nicely fruited, persistent aroma with floral trimming. Good early fruit strike on palate, a wine with good boy and grows well through the palate. Fresh, but elegantly full also. Ends cleanly with a bonny mineral tang. To 2015-16 March 2007

2005 ()

white fruits skin – apricot notably – with a spiced top note on the bouquet; is nice and wide, with a tang of salt, and crystallized fruits. Good grip on palate, this is well sustained and thorough. Contains bouncy and expressive fruit, laced with spice and some freshness from the Roussanne. The flavour is direct, but tapers a touch after a few minutes. Good typicité, is a representative, balanced blend of classic varieties. Nice, easy, positively loose structure, so is a pleasure, easy drinking wine. 13.5° 2013-14 Feb 2007

2004 ()

fresh, quietly warm backdrop to bouquet, is citrus, grapefruit, verveine, a mixed ensemble. Assured depth on palate, grows nicely through it, length is good. Pretty depth with clear cut finale. Fruits are white peaches, apricots in style. Touch of tilleul at end ("tilleul often present" Daniel Coulon). Esp 2009-10 on. 2017-19 July 2005