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The Wines

30-40% Roussanne, 30-42% Clairette blanche (co-planted, old vines), 10-20% Bourboulenc, 10-16% Picpoul blanc & gris, Grenache blanc & gris, Clairette rose, Picardan blanc (all 1937 and older) on clay-limestone soils, not many stones on Cabrières (N-W), La Nerthe (S-E), wild yeasts, fermented, raised 50-75% large 12 hl Stockinger oak barrels, 25-50% new-1-4 year 228-litre oak casks (1 new cask per annum) on fine lees 6-10 months (before late-2010s raised 25-33% new, 67-75% 1-4 year oak casks on fine lees 6-10 months), unfiltered, organic wine, 1,300-5,000 b

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; the nose is serious, has smoke notes, spark in it, a good ripe underlay. This is rich, comes in a fluid stream with a tasty centre, is STGT Châteauneuf blanc, the texture and glycerol offering high appeal. It eases along well, is stylish. Its second phase will be great. Decant it. “It’s unctuous”, Antonin Coulon. 14°. From 2024. 2036-38 Feb 2020 Previously Oct 2019 **** solid yellow robe; the bouquet is sizeable, buttery, with airs of brioche, baked bread. It could be more open, so decanting will help. The palate moves well, combines its gras richness with some steady movement, is clear outside its compact content. It has pedigree, definite sureness in its presentation. The aftertaste brings in cooked citrus notes, is long and clear. 14°.  3,000 b. 42% Clair, 32% Rouss, 11% Bourb, 10% Gren bl, 1% each Gren gris, Clairette rose, Picardan, Picpoul bl, Picpoul gris. Bottled Apr 2019. €57. 2032-34 Oct 2019

2017

firm yellow robe. Has a broad, unbridled bouquet, custard, flan airs, cooked lime jam notes, ash of a cigarette. The palate is rolling, savoury, fleshy: there’s a spiced plum jam flavour with cooked lemon, citrus touches before the finish. It has decent drive, so keeps moving, and will be suited to Poulet de Bresse with morille mushrooms for example, tuna, Asiatic, Thai cuisine. 14°. 3,000 b. 42% Clair bl, 32% Rouss, 11% Bourb, 10% Gren bl, 1% Clair rose, 1% Gren gris, 1% Picardan, 1% Picpoul bl, 1% Picpoul gris. Bottled Apr 2018. €55. 2031-33  Oct 2018

2016

full yellow colour. The aroma is suave and serene, shows vanilla, isn’t really out yet, is buttoned up; there are cooked white fruits airs, ripe peach. The palate works on texture, all very smooth, continuous, is solid, until a little note of freshness, detail, on the close. Oak suffuses it, is its current theme, while a grapey flavour is central to it. There’s a note of orange zest on the finish. This needs time to move past this low-key flavour profile, peanut style. The balance is decent. There is a delicate lime thread through it. 13.5°. 2030-32 Jan 2018

2014 ()

shiny yellow robe. There is a mix of flan and custard and their easy depth on the nose, with toast and vanilla, a clear touch of apricot juice also. The palate is making its way for now: there is a pocket of tidy gras and some agreeable juice towards the finish. The oak drives the flavour, with some pear and tobacco on show. It has a nicely sturdy finish. 14°. 1,300 b. From late 2016. 2022-23  Oct 2015

2013

firm, quite full yellow robe. The nose is elegantly full: it presents a suave aroma of pear and peach, is handsome and stylish, comes with potential to go further, has a little air of mandarin freshness. The palate is more obvious than the nose, based on a smoothly oaked compote of white fruits and flan-tinged palate. It is something of a crowd pleaser thanks to the texture and smooth qualities, but the acidity and structure are also good. It is enjoyable, and deserves haute cuisine and a large glass: turbot, halibut in a butter sauce beckon. It is long and well finished, a beau vin with good balance. The freshness is lively, and the lgnt is sound, not great. Day 3: still a fine elegance, with exotic fruits in the flavour. 14°. 2027-29  March 2015 Previously Oct 2014 ***(*) pale yellow robe. Creamy, stone fruit and peach aromas. Palate is rich, sweet and gras, but the winemaking does hold sway (barrel ageing and lees stirring?) at the moment. Plenty of fruit content. Finishes clean and long. Definitely needs time to settle. From late 2015. 14°. 2025-26 JL Oct 2014

2011

yellow colour; banana syrup, pear drop, candy air, a suggestion of peach, pear aroma. The main impression is of late cropping, overripe conditions. Has a banana, vanilla ice cream flavour, soda pop time. The acidity on the finish is outside the main frame, and a touch of tannin underpins the finish. Raw goods now. Wait. From 2016. 14°. €40. Bottled June 2012. 40% R, 40% Cl, 10% B, 10% the rest this year. 2025-27  Dec 2012

2010 ()

even, mild yellow robe. There is a prominent first nose of oak, then that is followed by a honey-nut second air that shows smoke and white raisin as well. The palate is shapely, the fruit clear and stylish; this is rich in an effortless way, and lengthens steadily. It has good balance, can absorb its oak, which is less marked on the palate. It gives the prospect of full, classy drinking. One quality is that if you don`t mind oak on the nose, it can be drunk now. 13.5°, so balance all round. €40, which is justified. Bottled June 2011. From 2013-14. 2023-25 Feb 2012

2009 ()

pale, flinty yellow. Spiced, bright nose – a lime-pear mix, a fine air with honey and toast – it is a young affair, with firm but shapely oak present. The palate reflects the finesse of the nose – it is all in a well shaped setting that has a good complete side and a low-key silken angle. The flavour resembles dried fruits, with vanilla later. Just starting out – a refined, stylish, discreet wine that has a lovely texture of fruit within its oak. The oak supports its finish. Balance is good. 2025-26. Moving up a good gear already. Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 **(*) glinting yellow; fresh nose, with honeycomb, saline influences, is on a lively trail. The palate spreads out well right away: it is solid, and so in the eye of the vintage. It ends firmly and completely. The aftertaste is tangy. The taste is not clear-cut. Is a grinder sort of wine, not a speed horse. Lacks mystery and nuance. The vintage marks it with that open book nature. From spring 2011. Probably most interesting after four or five years. 2018-19 Oct 2010

2008 ()

bright, light yellow with green tints. Fresh outer air to the bouquet, but sound white fruit within, has weight in behind. Apricot and varnish feature – this is graceful and attractive. There are clean lines through both the nose and the palate – the texture is agreeable in this wine of subtle depth and harmony. There is a little burst of tannin at the end, the length good enough to suggest it can evolve. Food best 2018-19 Nov 2009

2007

full yellow, apricot tints. Vanilla pod, oaked influence nose – banana, passion fruit – keeps on a mineral line. The palate is reserved, holds a dried fruits flavour such as apricot. Is lying low, not yet open. Sound, calm length. From late 2010. It extends minerally with a raviolis of sea food or fruits de mer, is beau with that. 2020-23 Dec 2009

2006 ()

steady yellow robe; vanilla, toasted nose – white raisin, wafts of honey. The palate gives first stage oak and pineapple flavours. The texture is tight, the wine runs along steadily. A fine wine by nature that has a little of a red wine in its structure. The length is good. It drinks freely now, but there will be less oak and more variety and glamour around 2011-12. 14°. 2019-22 Nov 2008 The malo was half completed this year.

2005

buttery bouquet with some suppleness and roundness in it, isn’t showing that much; interesting, tight weave on the palate, the oak dominates but not excessively. White fruits – plum and lime also in the flavour. The content is secure, there is a bit of heat on the finish, often found in the 2005 whites. It is rather vacant on the finish now. From 2008 spring time onwards. 2015-16 March 2007 the malo was completed this year

2004 ()

(cask) banana, petrol aroma, rounded and Riesling style, good fat. Immediate hit of round, buttered flavour, with spice. Oak tightens it towards the finish. It's rich throughout, with some mineral. Will live, helped along by its glycerol and richness. Ideal with grilled lobster (no sauce, beef carpaccio served with olives, sea salt. Really beau wine. 2018-21 Oct 2005

2003

a little reserved bouquet, but nicely mixed aromas - floral, honeysuckle, lime, apricot jam. Comfortable, round wine, well and elegantly presented. Still young, with a quiet tannic bearing towards the finish. Peach finale persists, shows some oak. Esp 2007 on. 2021-23 15 hl/ha, normal is 20 hl/ha July 2005

2001 ()

big bouquet - fruit tart, pineapple chunks. ("bouquet normally shows white truffles from Alba" Daniel Coulon). Intense flavour, quince jam, stone fruit, some elegance. Also has a tannic side from the grapes rather than the oak. Rolling along well now. 2013-15 July 2005