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The Wines

80-90% Grenache (1920s-30s), 2.5-10% Syrah, 2.5% Mourvèdre, 2.5-10% Cinsault, Counoise, 2.5% Terret Noir from galet stone covered red clay-limestone, some sandy soils on Palestor (N, 1904, 1920s) & Maucoil/Cabrières (N-W), whole bunch fermentation, crop not crushed, Syrah fermented on its own, 3-6 week vinification, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, concrete vat raised 18 months (before new cellar in 2013 raised 9 months), unfined, lightly filtered, first wine 2009, 10-16,000 b

2018 No Rating



(vat, bottling Nov 2019) dark, swirling red robe. The nose has a butty depth, raspberry liqueur fruit, oily notes, prune in with menthol, licorice; it has blood-ink notes, good. The palate has good heart, is full and rolling, a bonny wheel of flavour, texture, being suave all through. The tannins are more on the inside than many 2017s – good work. It builds as it goes, so has classic structure. “I saw people harvesting on 20 August this year, saying it’s 15° - but there was nothing like ripeness at that stage,” Jérôme Grieco. Only 10,000 b, which includes the wine usually in Les Anglaises. From 2023. 2042-44 May 2019

2016 ()

shiny dark red; the nose is reserved, has a silken element, raspberry fruit, isn’t yet much out, has a sweet inlay, notes of mixed herbs. This is compact, well furnished, carries a steady weight, and is on potential. The tannins are streamlined with a little stem-inclusion kick attached. It’s interesting, to be left four to five years, is naked now, and well apart from most obviously super filled up 2016s. It’s slow burn wine, decanting recommended. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Counoise, Terret noir, Cinsault. From 2023. 2045-48 May 2019 Previously Oct 2017 ****(*) (vat, bottling April 2018) dark robe. There is a mulberry-plum fruit axis on a neatly sweet, firm bouquet that also has airs of cooked plums, fine sweetness and neat raspberry within – a flash of light from that. The palate comes with joli gras richness which is well established, thorough, and builds in depth towards the finish. Black olives, and firm blueberry jam feature in the flavour. There are sweet herbs, garrigue in the wine, with a real burst of late freshness and a pebbly, belle texture. It’s a genuine, true wine. “It is evolving nice and quietly; its freshness allows drinking from around mid-2019, but waiting a bit longer is best,” Jérôme Grieco. From 2021. 2042-44 Oct 2017


dark, lustrous robe. Has a basil-pine, black cherry, purely fruited bouquet that is good and clear, offers spice and engagement, has inner depth, notes of black olives. The palate presents crisp fruit, has good wheels, gives great clarity of flavour, has a soft and silken texture before some live grain tannins. Licorice, thyme-basil, cocoa line up on the aftertaste, late grilling. This has dash, “sparkle”, is agreeably wild from the inclusion of the stalks, and full of beans. 14°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Coun/Cins/Terret noir. 2030-32 Oct 2017


(vat) dark, bright, good looking robe. The nose is reserved, has a meat stock centre, a lucid and deep black fruit, a light note of licorice. This suggests a serious, deep wine ahead. The palate is bulky, with fluid black fruit and an encasing of dark, peppery tannin, a complete charge. This has good, naked qualities, a proper intensity. It delivers real wham on the finish. It needs leaving perhaps until 2019, and will be a full, interesting glass, a genuine Châteauneuf, fuller than most this year. 2031-33  Oct 2015


healthy dark red, black tints. The nose gives a sweeping curve of blackberry, with a low-key throb of intensity. It is young and will vary well. The palate bears ample content, washed along by a mix of good gush black berry and live, licorice-inspired tannins. The finish brings a note of violet, bluebell. Has superior body and roundness for a 2013. The tannins are well implanted but their vigour demands this be left until 2018. This has lots of dash. 14.5°. 2027-29  Oct 2015 


rather full plum red robe. Has a smoky, interesting nose, one that bears good and clear dark red fruit, gives airs of licorice and cocoa. The palate is expressive, delivers a tasty stretch after half way, and lengthens with crisp purpose. It runs its own race, builds tannins of some drive towards the finish. It is commendably fresh and long. STGT wine. “It has opened since mid-March 2015,” Jérôme Grieco. 2024-25 Apr 2015 Previously Nov 2013 ****(*) dark robe, good looking, multiple legs down the glass. Has an upstanding bouquet, one of oily promise and mystery in its ranks, fluid black fruit, scented flowers hover, also licorice. The bouquet is big, broad and has very good potential to become a great ensemble. The palate is tasty, supple, generous, offers very engaging fruit on the attack, an explosion of black berry; it develops a mint-malic undernote, has a smoky tobacco, China tea take. The mid-palate is very good, while the finish for now is a touch dry and exerted in with its chewy, meaty notes, but that can be resolved. Serve this striking wine in a large glass. From 2016. 14.5°. 8,000 b. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 2% Cins, 3% Mourv, Terret Noir. Bottled Aug 2013. BIG VALUE at €17. 2026-27  Nov 2013 Previously Dec 2012 ***(*) (vat) dark robe; smoky, blackberry, low-key sweetness on the nose; the nose is earthy, grilled, has good heart. The palate has a solid, square shape with nice central intensity of black fruit, a ripe focus. The tannins are tasty, with grip and crunch. Floral and pepper touches on the finish. Has potential. 2023-24  Dec 2012


bright red colour, slight ease at the top. The nose gives black cherry with a game undertone, has a sultry, southern second level, shows flowers-roses, licorice also. This starts directly on the back of lively, well-cut black fruit; it serves itself freely, picks up some herbes de Provence, rosemary, towards the finish. It’s on its toes, mobile wine – it will fuse further over another two years. It’s on track to be an interesting, unfettered Châteauneuf. 14.5°. 2026-27 March 2016 Previously Dec 2012 *** good, shiny red robe. Open, raspberry fruit air that is nice and clear, has a subtle earthy undernote. There is a quiet mulled fruit depth, with some note of licorice. The palate gives jolly, spiced and scented red fruit; the early fruit has a brisk line about it, before a spiced, nutted finish. Could be drunk solo with saucisson, for instance. The spice gets going quickly. I like the good, running, tasty fruit – it is a direct wine, nearly simple, nearly w.o.w. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Cins, Terret Noir this year.  2020-21  Dec 2012


dark, comfortable robe with black tints. Has a rolling air of blackberry fruit – a soft, lightly sweet floral note in a curvy shaped bouquet. The palate is juicy, spiced, brings black berry, cassis fruit, tobacco, has a smoked style. It is closing down now, stopping early, but there is wine here, and it has length, is like an unsigned document. A purposeful Châteauneuf-du-Pape, not a scaled-up one. I like the acidity, while the fruit rolls quietly around on the aftertaste. From 2014. 2023-24  Dec 2012  Previously Dec 2011 *** dark red; rather oily, black berry fruited aroma, raspberry and also the presence of polished leather. The palate fruit is bright, immediate, and there is vivacity in its tannins, plus a little scratchiness. The flavour has a scented side to it, inside the raspberry fruit. A workmanlike Châteauneuf, has a low horizon of evolution, but is correct enough. From mid-2012. 14.5°. 2018-19. Bottled July 2011, early in my view, €15 at the cellars. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 10% Cins this year. Dec 2011

2009 No Rating

same as before: 2 bottles tasted blind in London, now: green, edgy, geranium. Cannot be marked. Sept 2011 Previously Oct 2010 NR 2 bottles tasted in Châteauneuf: 1st bottle: dark red, brewed nose that is ample, rather gummy, has farmyard, possible Brett, instincts. The palate lacks lift, is gummy and struggles for clarity. Bottle 2: largely full robe; the nose is different, strange – cold tea, but grainy, baked fruit airs. The palate fruit is brewed, flat, lacks freshness, and is clumsy alongside its peers in this blind tasting. The finish is meaty, and it gets dry very quickly, even after 3 minutes` open. 14.5°. €14 Oct 2010