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The Wines

40% Grenache blanc, 40% Roussanne, 10-20% Clairette, 0-10% Bourboulenc from galet stone covered soils on plateau of Les Brusquières (N-W), 75% steel vat, 25% new 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 6 months, malo blocked, 2,500-4,000 b

2018

fine yellow hue; the nose is attractive, open, detailed, offers pure white fruit, notably citrus touches, is good and “up”. This drinks well now, with a very good link between nose and palate, with tidy grip and depth on the finish. It shows well now, is elegant, with fine acidity, detail. The length is appealing. Bottled May 2019. 14°. 2026-28 Nov 2019

2017

shiny yellow; an attractive nose mixes flowers, refined white fruits, a slight note of "high" in the fruit. The palate is juicy, flows well with appealing persistence, the flavour centred on white fruits, white strawberries, peach. There's a good nose to palate link here. This is a good effort in a hot year. The texture does well, is sleek. 14°. 2026-28 Nov 2018 Previously Oct 2018 **** yellow robe, a cream note or two; glazed fruits quiet strength on the nose, some grilling, oak, a hint of cooked apples. The palate has a supple texture and content, gives wavy fruit flavours, picks up ash, pumice stone notes on the finish. I think there is stylish Roussanne present, which brings precision and a note of florality. The aftertaste is gently grapey. 14°. 3,900 b. 40% Gren bl, 40% Rouss, 20% Clair. Bottled Apr 2018. €15.90 export. 2027-28 Oct 2018

2016

fine yellow robe. Has a soft nose, pear, white plum mixed together, and a neat little citrus tang note that adds lift, pep. The palate comes with a mixed white fruits, dried fruits flavour, has a ginger snap thrust on the finish, with some pebble tannin. It’s smooth until the finish, which also has bitter notes. It’s not quite a true aperitif, nor a true table wine, has carbonic gas in it. You could try leaving it until spring 2018. It lacks real mid-palate depth, comes and goes along the palate. 14°. 2024-25 Dec 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe, has depth. The bouquet is softly filled with peach fruit, a light note of hazelnut, has reserves to give more and vary nicely. The palate holds quietly stylish juice, is restrained for now. The length is secure, fresh, in tip-toe fashion. This has understated class, and trim elegance, with good stuffing. Table wine with modern cuisine well on the agenda. High grade white Châteauneuf here. Decant it. 14°. From spring 2017. 2026-29  Sept 2016

2014 ()

handsome yellow robe. Attractive, coolly fruited bouquet that has pep and gives clear, airbone aromas of nectarine, peach, licorice-aniseed. The palate moves with delightful poise and assurance; it is fresh, serene and very stylish. There is a triumphant capture of freshness and refined local depth here. Good length and balance, all very polished. It isn’t yet up to a dish of octopus, but will be around 2017. 14°. Bottled June 2015. 4,000 b. 2023-25  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale colour, almost see through, shows green flecks. Stone fruit and pear-apple nuances on the nose, has some depth. The palate  is soft and supple with adequate fruit. Gently aromatic, and already attractive drinking now. 14°. 2021-22 JL Oct 2014

2012

pale, bright and clear robe; there is an elderberry, licorice combo on the front nose, has an engaging iodine freshness and direct appeal, spring flowers with the added depth of a light cooked banana aroma. The palate has an enjoyable texture that is smooth and nicely oily; its fruit resembles quince, Victoria plums. The sense of good roll along the palate takes it a good, long way. Great now for that ease and texture, no complications. There are edges of lime on the aftertaste. Round, charming, not complex, is very up for cheeses, steamed St Jacques, scallops. 14°. 2019-21  Oct 2013

2011 ()

this keeps improving! shiny, mild yellow, legs. Orange zest features in a lightly fragrant bouquet – it has bright fruit that suits aperitif drinking, shows a light air of petrol, Riesling. This is charming wine, based around an attack of dried fruits, fresh quince and strawberry fruit; it leads into a tangy, wider, more collected finale. Very good. All together, classic, pure Châteauneuf-du-Pape for the aperitif and fine flavoured foods. There are grand notes of mint and linden (tilleul) on the aftertaste, is very drinkable, spot on w.o.w. wine. 14°. 2020-21  Dec 2012  Previously Feb 2012 **** fine yellow robe. Nice, oily and wide bouquet – wax and apricot feature. The palate is full and stylish, carries shapely fruit, offers good drinkability. There is a fresh run through it, and it ends nice and live. A great aperitif, a w.o.w. wine. Very good acidity – this is an open and willing wine. 2018-19  Sept 2012  Previously Feb 2012 **** bright, pale yellow; fresh, salty, breezy air, nice foundation to the bouquet that gives a light sense of pear, buttercup, lime. The palate is a great partner for the squid, right in step. The matter is elegant, the acidity fluid, the length attractive. Good poise in this wine, provides effortless drinking, discreet body. 2019-20  Feb 2012

2010

attractive, fine yellow colour. The bouquet shows the jam of white stone fruits, a bit of varnish, acetate, and a mild air of verbena and citrus, along with lightly cooked pear: it has some class, but is not fully on show. The palate is a cautious do – the balance is good, the acidity helpful, but its fruit is subdued. It offers some taste of dried fruits, has a waxen sort of make-up. A sophisticated style of white Châteauneuf, modern. The palate is broad, and there is a show of honeycomb on the aftertaste, some mystery there. Decant this. 14.5°. 3,000 b this year. 2020-21 Feb 2012

2009 ()

shiny pale yellow colour. He first aroma is lime in a bright air that carries an undertone of ripeness and richness with a notion of tobacco: a stimulating start. Has a banana, cooked pear flavour, with a fine acidity after half way. There are hazelnut-honey touches on the aftertaste. Nicely done, precise wine with no exaggeration. The finish is good –it has nerve, length. Can be drunk solo for now. An accomplished, STGT wine (tasted blind), and is adding local authenticity to its repertoire as it evolves a little. 2021-22 Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ****(*) mild, glinting yellow; immediately good and appealing bouquet – has a fresh top air and a sound, well-filled underlay of flan-like aroma – I like its fresh strike. Has a peach, apricot flavour, plus some cooked banana. Good harmony and balance in this really appealing wine – finesse wins over power. Shows subtle licorice late moments. Glows on the aftertaste. Now good, and yes, also good for the aperitif. w.o.w wine, a real winner. 14.5°. 2018-19 Oct 2010

2008 ()

flinty, green tints. The nose is soft – offers flowers, breezes of warm weather, a little dried fruit. The palate fruit starts agreeably and openly, then tapers and withdraws on the finish. A freshly styled wine for early drinking, including the aperitif, or food outdoors. 2014. Nov 2009

2007

pale robe; piano, cardboard top air, but there is gracious white fruit below, and spice attachments. The palate gives an overt, immediate kick of spice. It is rather plain as it goes along – the fruit flattens. The length is fair. May be more perky from mid-2009. There is sinew in this, but it seems rather cellar forced. To 2016. Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 **(*) quite bright, mid-depth yellow; has a mild nose that veers towards flan, bonbon sweets, baked fruits, has a little “up” note in it, but is largely smooth across the glass. Compact palate which is a bit reserved, halting. Has a pungent, overdone note that lacks coherence. To 2013. June 2008

2006

yellow, pale pear colour; the bouquet has a zesty top air – comes with vitality and spice, but there is a good foundation. It also shows some lime, glazed fruits and greengage. The palate starts prettily, gains as it goes, fleshes out and broadens. The length is sound, and there is a crisp finale marked by some flan or crème patisserie. A good little ball of richness lies snugly in this, with the able counterpoint of a fresh outer edge that keeps it live. After 20 minutes, it rounds and softens and rolls with a lovely smoothness. Has a real sing-song, is a wine of character. 14.5°. 2012-13 July 2008

2004 ()

nutty, white stone fruits, compact aroma. The palate has a decent rich, rounded start, and now it has aged, is supple. There is good late grip, a mineral tone mixed with a nutty effect from the oak. A quietly firm wine of good length. 2012-13 Oct 2007

2003

broad, warm bouquet, buttery and wholesome. Palate - fat, round and rich, tone of bouquet continues. Some chewiness near the finish, though a trifle burnt right on the end.