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The Wines

60% Grenache, 40% Syrah from 4.33 hectares on red limestone with some clay, pebbly soils on La Verde & Pavane on the Sarrians Hautes Garrigues, & in 2014 1.45 hectares on Cabane (1960s Grenache), 3 week oak vat vinification, light cap punchings, pumping overs, large oak vat & 600-litre oak cask raising 8-9 months, then enamel vat 4 months, unfined, unfiltered, 2 bottlings, 17-20,000 b

2018

(vat/casks) matt-toned dark red; the bouquet is filled with sweet, red fruit, jam-like in nature. It’s a close-knit, unyielding start. The palate is also sweet, on cooked red berry, strawberry jam flavours. It’s obviously ripe, savoury, with a firm intensity in the juice, ending on a rounded persistence, with ripe and gummy tannins. It’s a Grenache-centric, hot vintage Vacqueyras. 15°. 60% Gren, 40% Syr. €17. From 2022, decant it. 2035-37 Feb 2020 Previously Nov 2019 (vat) clear red robe; the nose is aromatic, with an open air of raspberry, a touch of garrigue. The palate is mild, doesn’t have great depth, is an easy approach Vacqueyras – it’s all about fruit and immediate delivery. 2030-32 Nov 2019

2017

dark, full robe. The nose is charged, brims with sweet toned black stone fruits, hints of salt, gorse, has a raw appeal, a note of reduction. The palate is weighted, wide, carries a succulent lashing of black stone fruit with depth and tar in the tannins. It’s a vigorous, garrigue-referenced Vacqueyras, no hanging about here. I like its primal energy, and it will go well with classic red meat dishes. It’s very long. 15°. 60% Gren, 40% Syr. €17. From mid-2021. Decant it. 2035-37 Feb 2020

2016

(oak vat) full robe. The bouquet is brewed, enclosed, rather massive, on black berry fruits with inner sweetness, notes of black olives. There’s some very ripe Syrah present, with a lean towards jam from that. The palate links to the nose in being rich, filled, dense, has inner force. The tannins bring layers of extra depth, and it unfurls its wares gradually, solidly. This is a ripe, genuine southern ball of a wine, for stews, red meats. The aftertaste is lip smacking. 15°. 60% G 40% Syr. From spring 2019, decanting advised. 2031-33 Feb 2018

2015 ()

(enamel vat, bottling spring 2017) shiny dark red robe. The nose is a smoky, black-fruited affair with a keen freshness, a hum of baked lands lowering the intensity. The palate bears a criss-cross of live black fruits with a salty and spiced surge, and a finale that brings in dried herbs and some crunched tannins. The aftertaste assembles licorice, coffee. It’s a forceful wine in a naked state for now: leave until spring 2019. 15°. 18,000 b. 2027-28 Feb 2017

2014 ()

(vat) sober dark red robe. The bouquet is brewed, mainstream in style; there is a core of blackberry jam, a little density. The palate is compact, packed in with soaked cherry flavours, some distance between them and the tannins. A traditionally styled wine, not fused. The finish gives some Grenache red jam, spice, but it is withdrawn there. This is a bit dull. 15°. From mid-2017. 2020-21  Dec 2015 

2013

(vat) purple-garnet colour. The nose is subdued. The palate is sweet and juicy, and has a firm tannic frame. It lacks some mid-palate stuffing, but is representative of the vintage. 15°. From 2016. 2021-22 JL Dec 2014

2012

(vat) dark robe. There is an overhang of mulled black berry fruit, earthiness, damp soil on the nose. It has an elemental, reductive side, marked fat, a prolonged intensity – this is a wide landscape bouquet. The palate holds rich, ripe fruit – it coats the palate, brings along spice, black pepper, drives forward. It has serious length, sound freshness and potential. Good, really filled wine, lasts on powerful strokes. Drink with sauced meats, and will go well with kidneys, liver. Decant it. From late 2015. 15°. 2024-25  Dec 2013

2011 ()

dark robe. Grilled aroma with spiced red jam present and fundamental-meaty notes, an air of sweetness. The palate is weighty, sweetness and soaking of fruits present. This lacks real lift, has a round, rather clamping texture. It lacks spark, cut, is old fashioned and dull. Perhaps this is the first bottling, and it needed longer pre-bottling. 15°. 2018. May 2013

2010

bright, dark robe. Meaty, grilled first air with reduction in it; pistachio and a combination of blackberry and black cherry follow. This nose suggests a really grounded wine. The palate starts in sleek fashion, bears suave black fruit that picks up tannin and oak as it goes. Modern style, a little arm’s length. It is powerful and shows a little dryness on its extraction and oaking. The oak is on the outside; less oak = better. From late 2014 or 2015. 15°. 2023-24  May 2013

2009 ()

(casks) dark, shiny robe; interesting nose – toasted, crisp black fruits, a little leather, smoky airs. Good, gracious black cherry fruit lies on the palate, and holds up well, runs a steady path. I like the oak infusion for now. More local from 2013. 2019-21 July 2010

2008 ()

quite bright, full red; savoury moments on the nose, sweet red fruit travelling across it – a harmonious bouquet. The palate offers good, accessible fruit and rolls on well, with no false steps. Sympa, w.o.w. wine, an enjoyable drink. Has a drift of late tannin. 2015-16 July 2010

2007 ()

big robe; compact, broad shoulders bouquet that ripples with implicit power, holding prune, “high” fruit. The palate delivers grounded black fruit, a throb of insistence about it: a meaty, gutsy wine with lots of abundance, really delivers – STGT here. It ends on juicy power and lots of pepper. Rock on, Tommy. 2018-21 July 2010 Previously March 2009 **(*) (to be bottled next month) full robe; raisin, sweet, full airs on the nose – date, prune. The palate is rich, lives on its copious bounty, tastes of fig and dates are here. In the really up front style of many 2007s from Châteauneuf. It is hearty, full and rather made up. From mid-2010. To 2014-15 March 2009

2005

moist black fruit berries aroma, with a scented top note. The palate shows soft, ripe fruit – damson jam flavour, with pliant end tannins. Length sound. A good bit of licorice and herbs at the end. Can drink soon. To 2013-14 March 2007

2003 ()

thorough, full bouquet, is ripe with berried fruit, herbs, a sweet, minted aspect. Brewed fruits flavour, licorice edges, tannins are fine, carry a mineral, cool feel. Good local wine, STGT. Esp 2008 on. 2018/20 Feb 2005