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The Wines

50-60% Grenache blanc, 25% Clairette, 15-25% Roussanne (was 25% Bourboulenc, 0% Roussanne until mid-2000s) plus various, 80% steel vat, 20% oak cask fermented 20-30 days at 18°C, raised 7 months (until mid-2000s was vat only, raising 12 months), “drink with fish, sea food, or as aperitif”, organic wine, 2,000-3,500 b

2014

marked yellow robe, almost low-key gold. The nose has a ginger, mandarin quality, a deep seated peach, smoky fruitiness. The palate is tight, also smoky, with some oak apparent. There is a bustling quality about it, with spearmint and a note of pine needle on the long finish, a delightful clarity there. It holds its own character away from the mainstream. Table wine, good with pork, cod fish. 13°. 3,500 b. €22.50. 60% Gren bl, 25% Clair, 15% Rouss. 2023-25  Oct 2015  

2013 ()

fine yellow robe. The nose is subdued, offers drifts of aniseed-fennel, a small saltiness, and delicate pear, a touch of honey. This is very much early, aperitif white Châteauneuf: it drinks well, with enjoyable gras that is fluid. It builds some grip and extra density and a nuttiness as it ends, is clean-winded. There a light flavour of mandarin and white peach. The balance is good, and it is very good example of aperitif Châteauneuf. It is nice and calm, the length sound. 13°. 2019-20  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2014 **(*) yellow robe. Apple and pear aromas on the nose. The attack is fleshy attack on the palate, comes with a green apple flavour, then tails off. The finish is a little sharp and edgy, the acidity curiously marked. 13°. 2020-21 JL Oct 2014

2011

apricot, pale gold, rich looking robe. There is a caramel-linden (tilleul) mix on the nose, with a discreet glazed fruits backdrop. The fruit scents are baked pear and peach, a little mandarin and lime, and there is a wee note of alcohol. The palate is rich in style, but dumb, ending in compact fashion, baked and closed. It shows late acidity, a low-key uplift. The aftertaste combines verbena and nut. Decant this. From spring 2014. 14°. 60% GB, 25% Cl, 15% R, 2,000 b this year. €22. 2023-24  Dec 2012

2010 ()

steady yellow colour; there is a little weight in the broad nose – notes of white raisin, treacle, pear and apricot, although the fruit is not obvious. There is a high, rum baba aspect to the palate fruit: this is a grounded wine, suited to la table. There is a compacted white raisin and nut central zone. It ends firmly, sealed up. Foods required, not solo drinking. Provençal garlic-olive oil dishes would suit. From mid-2012, decant this. 14°. €21 at the cellars. 2022-24 Dec 2011

2009

rich, gold robe. The nose has evolved well into a mixed variety of prompts – quince paste, ginger, cooked orange, dulce de leche, has depth. This is rich on the attack, still close-knit, the palate appearing younger and more reserved than the nose. It has the close-packed, solid foundation of 2009 – the vintage in a nutshell. There’s commendable freshness, which gives it spine and shape, keeping it well in the game. It ends with tangy grip, well. Great wine for Vieille France, butter-based dishes, sauces. There are touches of sherry, Amontillado, but there are ways to go still. 14°. 2028-30 Sept 2018

2006 ()

fresh nose of live white fruits, with a hint of banana, and melted butter. The aroma is not very deep, and comes in the salty, iodine mould. There is a brisk start to the palate, with obvious freshness; it never quite achieves a quiet, reflective moment. It does not feel really cohesive, and ends airily. So time may help, but not by a lot. 14°. 2010-11 Nov 2007

2005 ()

some yellow in the robe; bonbon aroma – ripe fruit from the Clairette, Grenache blanc sources for this fat style, holding butter with a lemon waft and a little earthiness, then spice and honeysuckle later. Rich start to palate, the a good tight middle phase. Pretty good length with a clear finale. I like the fruit that keeps going and its grip. Good, middle range white Châteauneuf – not in the zesty nor in the oaked field, is a good, uncluttered offering, and holds its shape all through. Honest, local, broad wine that is STGT. Good balance, just a pity it’s a wee bit short if one is rigorous in the critique. 14° 2014-15 Feb 2007

2001 ()

fair white fruited aroma. The palate shows stone fruit in its flavour, but is a bit stale. Not for me.  March 2003