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The Wines

70-80% Roussanne (1992), 0-15% Grenache blanc (1940s-1950s), 5-20% Clairette from sand soils on La Solitude (E), whole bunc pressing, new 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 8 months (until mid-2010s Roussanne fermented, raised new oak casks, Grenache blanc, Clairette vat raised 8 months) malo blocked, first wine 2001, 3,000-7,000 b

2017 ()

bold, deep yellow robe, gold implied. The nose shows grilling, pork scratchings, glazed brown sugar derived from its oaking. There is a honey, musky-floral backdrop. The palate gives a cellar-led flavour of toffee, rum Baba, intense white raisin. The texture is close to sticky. This is very stylised wine – you have to like abundant oak and a sense of fat in the cocktail. The close locks down on compressed dried fruits, tart crust notes. Decanting essential, and leave until 2022. It is marked on it toning down and being more interesting in the future. 14°. 2034-36 Oct 2018

2016 ()

full yellow robe; the bouquet is broad, confident, has oaking, with a note of garrigue herbs, petrol, is starting to refine, to have a polished curve on it. It holds well. The palate bears stylish, always flowing content, with ripe jam flavours, a peach heart with oak-brown sugar surrounds from the raising – the latter control the finish, which is layered, oily, capacious. From 2021. This has the richness to handle its oaking, and to be a sensuous, striking, very full glass of white, aimed at lobster Thermidor, sauced veal, pork dishes, also a litany of Vieille France regulars such as pieds et paquets and sweetbreads. There is freshness within a seemingly oxidative presence. 15°. 2038-40 Oct 2018

2015

clear yellow robe. There is a soft aroma of cooked white fruits, lemon, with a zip of aniseed. The palate is reserved, holds tangy white fruits, with a slightly low fermentation, taut take on matters. Leave until 2019 to allow it to re-balance and gain in gras. It’s on the wire at present. 14°. 3,000 b. 80% Rouss, 20% Clairette. Bottled June 2016. 2024-26 Sept 2016

2009

yellow robe; has an air of apricot, white plum jam, hints of vanilla along with oak and spice – its oak is quite prominent, has southern depth. The palate is sturdy, thorough, and is suited to foods with pronounced flavours. The end is wide, sustained, has local power. It presents a pocket of minerality before the finish. Try with soft cheeses, spring rolls, prawn dishes. Good local style – it is hearty. A big advance in the past 14 months. 2022-24. 80% R, 15% GB, 5% Clairette this year. Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ** yellow with green tints. Spritzy, baked hazelnut tart aroma, the fruit is like apricot, glazed fruits. Bouquet a bit light. The train zaps through the station on the palate – wham, and it's all over in a rush. Fresh style, can do minor aperitif duties. Fresh end. Lirac level quality. 2014-15 Oct 2010

2007 ()

pockets of yellow, legs down the glass; has an almond paste, near nougat aroma, which is intrinsically clear, even tense. It is backed up by peanut and pineapple from its oak. The palate is rather strict, upright, has welcome butter in its flavour. It lengthens quietly and steadily on to a discreet finish, which is refined more than robust. The aftertaste is oaked. From 2012. 2021-23 Nov 2008

2006

yellow, glistening robe. Pear-pineapple, ripe aroma with vanilla relaxing in the back seat; a little of a live air on top of its brown sugar air. The palate is more obviously oaked than the nose – has a rich, suave and smooth texture. Agreeably fat wine, bang on with grilled lobster, for example. Rich enough to drink well on its own. It extends well along the palate; there is a hint of power on the finale, but it ends in a controlled way – never overbearing. The flavour reflects banana, pineapple, as per its oaking influence, and exposure to air increases the oak factor. Rich enough for a casserole of lamb à la Grecque, note. Esp late 2009 on. 15°. 2019-21 Oct 2008

2005 ()

buttery, reserved bouquet, with flan in the aroma, while its oak is starting to absorb. There is grip on the palate – it is a dumb wine now, so revert in 2009-10. There is good elegance and nice oak toasting. Has comfortable richness at its heart. Shows a touch of late fire, so the 15° is not a surprise. 2014-16 Oct 2007 Previously Feb 2007 **(*) yellow tints; fresh bouquet, with some oak on the nose. The fruit is suppressed – what there is comes in the form of banana and a ‘classic’ neo-exotic cluster of aroma. Oaked start to palate – naturally – with the glint of some peach flavour. Tightens and shows a nutty, closed-in nature. Oaked ending. In a closed phase, and isn’t accessible for much of a hit at the moment. May – or should - be more on parade from mid-late 2007. 13.5° 2012-14 Feb 2007

2001 ()

firm yellow colour; the bouquet is accentuated by ripe fruit, with melted butter also and lime marmalade – it is quite potent. The palate is unusual – the oak is receding, but the fruit is losing its early vigour. The flavour is of dried white stone fruits. There are oxidative tendencies in the wine, which is clearly at a crossroads. It may revive around 2006, and that has to be the main hope for the future. To 2009-10? April 2004