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The Wines

80-100% Grenache (1915), 10-20% Syrah (1940), 2-3% Cinsault, 1% Clairette blanche from very sandy, also pink clay early ripening soils on lower terraces on Cabrières, destemmed, 17-20 day open vat vinification, manual pumping overs, large 2,000-litre barrel raised 15-16 months (until 2003 used 228-litre casks), unfined, unfiltered, first wine 1994, made in best years for the Grenache, 1994, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2016, biodynamic wine, 1,800-3,000 b

2016

very dark colour. The bouquet is ample, a pile of black berry fruits, along with prune, buffed leather. This has good heart, and proper depth, is a wine that is all together, stands well. I like its thoroughness and coherence, more so than usual, when it can be on the “too much” side. “The 2016 Syrah was jammy, so this is 80% Grenache, plus Counoise and Cinsault, and less Syrah than before. The vintage was greatly balanced, which helped my work,” J-P Daumen. This is harmonious and spherical, remains very Grenache, but with a fresh line behind, pointing to adroit blending. There are fine pockets of clarity along the second half, the length good and sturdy. “It’s rich and charming,” J-P Daumen – I agree. 15.5°. 2046-49 Feb 2019

2015 ()

dark red. The bouquet is layered, has several couches of black berry fruit, some smoke, oiliness, carries potential. The palate is a coated, rolling affair, holds good depth of gras richness with black raisin, prune notes. It has some mobility, is a big wine, but achieves a coherent run. There is a good welling up of matter after half way, and the length is firm and sure. This has a tasty heart, and good pedigree within, the munchiness of it. 15.5°. 2038-41 Feb 2018 Previously Sept 2016 ***** (large barrel) deep, dark red robe. The nose is ripe and rich – there is a sturdy thickness of date and prune; it just escapes baking, excess. There is a soft note of violet, and overall it holds up pretty purely. The palate presents gourmand, pastilles fruit with an easy, delicious sweetness. This is like sucking sweet fruits; it has a plump, wavy character, builds a little tannin that is ripe and round, at the end. It extends on pebbly notes, is structured to the line, the length graceful. It is both finely and firmly juiced. 15.5°. “It is very gourmand, juicy, the tannins make you salivate – you want to drink it,” Jean-Paul Daumen. 2,000 b – the old vines are disappearing, so the quantity is falling. From 2021. 2035-39 Sept 2016

2014 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2013 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2011 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2010 ()

very dark colour. Petrol, crème de cassis de Dijon with prune and a rich, inviting blackberry jam – the bouquet has a very pretty sweet suggestion, nutty notes. There is a sense of murmur of high octane, drinking towards the end of a meal wine on the palate, albeit smooth and refined. It ends on rich, bit prune flavour notes. I think the stems could have been kept on in order to pierce its dense coating and to free it up. The flavour moves around soaked red cherries, griottes, before ending on a crunchy dark assembly of prune and tar. It extends well into clearer, more snappy zones. From 2016-17. 16°. Drink with a chocolate dessert. 2033-35  Dec 2012

2009

dark red, shiny robe; there is a good sweep a cross the bouquet – ripe black berries with mint and prune notes, a tea graininess: it has a generous side, and comes with local, baked garrigue airs. The palate runs with prune, squeezy ripe fruit, its texture smooth. It lengthens steadily, is in fact a whole, without undue power, despite the label saying 16°. It ends firmly and completely, has a lot of flavour and is a serene entity. Successful, attractive wine with touches such as the floral, rosemary-thyme mixture on the aftertaste. Full, well manoeuvred in the cellar. From 2014. 2027-29 Feb 2012

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2007 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2006

full red robe; oily red fruits, laurel aroma that is still tight – the fruits are mulled, and there is a simmering heat in the bouquet. There is a big red fruits, assertive debut, with from half way an entry of alcohol that stokes it up and lengthens it. It ends on some power, with herbs and heat. A high octane wine, which is indeed a feature of some 2006s. From 2011. 2021-23 March 2009

2005

very dark, sustained black robe with mauve present. Oily, inky nose, with an even consistency: has prune and raisin with a lot of suggestive surround. Even though the bouquet is low-key today, it is broad and potentially imposing, and very young just now. The palate carries a very full package of black fruits and berries – comes with real length and purpose, and with tannins well present – the tannins are live, ripe and well-defined. Is not put forward with over-ripeness, thank goodness, which means that it is more decisive than many wines of the Prestige category. Persists all over the palate. Deals out a late burst of laurel, garrigue, thyme and spice. Is a mouth-coating wine, but is not soaking nor oppressive. From 2012, for instance. Maybe drink with simple dishes because it is so rich – reach for the lamb cutlets or the guinea fowl in a chestnut sauce rather than the wild boar. Is over 16° but does not show this. Close to a six star status. 2032-35 This is €240 a bottle . . . Nov 2007

2004 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – the slippage in ripening between the sugars and the polyphenols did not allow a Réservé wine this year

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2001

(casks) very dark, profound bouquet, a pebbly air on top of an oily setting. There are light touches of herbs. While reserved, the bouquet is broad and constant. This is rather big wine, but not obviously so; its texture is smooth, has a dense pocket of black fruit flavour, seasoned by some white pepper. Has good potential. The finish is complete. From 2008, say. 100% Grenache this year. Bottling in 9-12 months’ time, no hurry. 2020-23  March 2003

2000 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

1999 ()

darker colour than the classic, inky tints in the robe. The nose shows extreme blackberry fruit, the oak discreetly there, a smoky topping from that. There’s really good fruit off the bat on the palate, which runs on very well. It’s very long and persistent. The finish is rounded, olives and spice there. It has good fruit extract, some acidity within, is live, with agreeable freshness. There is a note of degree – it’s 14.5° on the label, but that is well integrated. It holds more fat than the classic 1999. 2025-28 Nov 2000

1998 ()

dark, black cherry robe; oily, resin-style aroma, cassis fruit and new oak. The palate is “dark” – seems cellar-pushed, thus there is front of the mouth acidity on the finish, the black fruit appears stretched. It will need leaving until 2005 or so – leave well alone before then. Not typical of its terroir as it is now. 2015-18 Feb 2000

1997 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

1996 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

1994 ()

dark robe, legs. Very stewed fruits aroma, big scale, a lot of blackberry, a dark aroma. The palate is full of blackberry and cassis; it is broad across the palate, the tannins are chewy and mixed in with oak, a bit of sweetness. Like many this year, this does not drum up notions of terroir, with young oak an obstacle. It may tire early. 14°. 2005-07 Oct 1996