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The Wines

65-70% Grenache (1920s-1930s, 1947-48), 10-12% Syrah, 10-12% Counoise, 10-12% Cinsault on the 4 lowest terraces, north-facing Cuvée Réservé vineyards (officially Cabrières, Maucoil), sandy, warm, early ripening soils, destemmed, 3 week concrete vat vinification, 1-2 pumping overs daily at first, then every 2 days, manual cap punching in open 50 hl vats, large 25-55 hl barrel raised 12 months, then 3 months stay in concrete vat, unfined, unfiltered, 2-2.5 gm SO2 applied at bottling, the only use of it, biodynamic wine, 9-14,000 b


full red robe; cooked plum on the nose, which lies in wait, isn’t open yet, shows cassis bud, licorice, mixed herbs, is broad, quietly intricate. The attack is sturdy, nicely fluid, gives a very good stream of spice-pepper, sark red fruited content, with trim tannins that fir snugly. There’s a good cool tenor through this, it’s a superior 2017. I note just a nudge of dryness in the tannins, but the vivacity of the fruit goes a long way to help the wine overall. 15°. From 2023. 2044-46 Feb 2020

2016 ()

full red; the nose is promising, shows raspberry but discreet airs of rosemary, also licorice, its depth sure. It can develop well. Good nerve runs through the palate, which is always on the move, has brightness, isn’t a static 2016, carries fibre – its texture is like that. It’s structured, a wine for time, with the tannins building a rocky finish. Red fruits are its central theme. Leave until 2022. Bottled spring 2018. 15°. 2043-45 Feb 2019


dark red. There is slight reduction on the nose, which comes with briary, garrigue airs, rosemary and sweet herbs, some meatiness. The palate goes off with a fresh charge, strides out, but there are husky notes on the finish, furry tannins. The centre is on dark red fruits, raspberry. I am not sure how clean this is, with the dry finish. The fruit at its centre is enjoyable. 14.5°. Bottled March 2017. 2032-34 Feb 2018 Previously Sept 2016 **** (large barrel) dark red colour. There is early brightness on the noise, with yeasty, baked, crushed black berries, light sweetness with black raisin, black cherries. Good variety is building up here. The palate bears concentrated juice – compressed juice ekes out of its rocky-pebbly garrigue surround. Cooked plums, fig fruit tart touches come through in its flavour. It’s pretty big. 15°. “It has sève [noble sap] and a vinous side,” Jean-Paul Daumen. From 2020. 2034-37 Sept 2016

2014 ()

dark red, a clear robe. The nose has good clarity, pepper, raspberry, damson plum, comes with good heart, and a charming curve to it. The palate is juicy, very enjoyable – here is the finesse of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with early silk, ease of flow, then a second stage of flowers. This is very fine, has attractive, belle balance, good late detail. This has a Pinote nature, is a winner, very belle. 14.5°. Only half size crop due to the rain and rot. From mid-2018. 2033-36 Sept 2016


bright, shiny red robe. The nose is restrained, offers well tucked in raspberry with a dance of sweet herbs, a pleasing and involving intro it is. It’s still tight. The palate gives cool red fruits, purity and a near Pinot association. It lengthens into mineral, sealed red fruit, carries a naked late stretch. It’s very much a wine for middle age, not before. From 2019-20 to access more open and more flesh. One for the True Enthusiasts. 14°. 2030-33 Nov 2016 Previously Sept 2016 ***(*) dark plum colour. The nose has an attractive, black-fruited early aroma, with some reduction from the Syrah. The black fruit jam air is rounded, and there is a hint of raspberry and flowers: it’s a bouquet of promise. The palate gives a mix of pebbly, black fruit jam with black olives. This has fine acidity, carries cool red fruits, delivers late glow. The tannins are gummy. This has truth. 14°. Only 9,000 b, down from 12,000 b due to coulure on the Grenache. From 2019. 2032-34 Sept 2016


shiny, full red robe. Garrigue herbs, rosemary and laurel come bounding out of the bouquet, a stylish dark berry fruit within, lots of clear appeal, with flowers also: it is a good bouquet. The smoky berry fruit moves easily on the palate, takes on a kirsch, more spirit side on the second half. The fruit is polished, tasty, resembles soaked red cherries, griottes. The worry is its degree to some extent, with its spirity connotation. The close is lucid. Not really a full ensemble now, and not sure about its balance. 15.5°. From mid-2017. 2029-31  Nov 2015


plum red colour. Air of high, soaked red fruit, damp forest and beeswax on the nose, which has an earthy nature. There is some reduction. The palate is moving between youth and the next stage (early twenties?) It centres on some rich, openly fronted plum fruit which presents a baked angle after half way. It sustains well. There is a touch of tea and also chalkiness on the aftertaste, the finish compact. A low-key note of gras and toffee appears as it ends. It should now be left until 2017. £320 12b i/bond H2Vin www.h2vin.co.uk orders@h2vin.co.uk 2028-29 Nov 2014 Previously Dec 2012 ****(*) (concrete vat, bottling spring 2013) (concrete vat, bottling spring 2013) shiny, dark red; has a lying in wait air of salted plum, prune, black fruits that have good cut and lift, and also features violet and drifts of barbecue smoke. The palate is light on its feet, does a good job, is fresh and tasty, more linear than round, has gras and extends well. Very good; the black fruit is tasty, flinty. Very drinkable, pure, long wine. Its dark finale is good. From late 2014. 15.3°. 2028-29  Dec 2012


shiny, bright and inviting robe. Has a cool and calm bouquet that is quite open already – it gives menthol with grilling, smoky tea, violet and leather, is a good mixed bag. The palate offers fine juice black fruit, comes along in a sure, wavy way, picks up crisp tannins, a dentelle effect near the end. Interesting wine that has different facets; it possesses very good airborne qualities, and impresses me, as did the 2011; I really take to its purity. Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a Burgundian vein here, has chalky cut on the finish. Very good, stylish and classy. It is close to 6 stars. €40 at the cellars. From 2015. Bottled April 2012. 2034-36  Dec 2012