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The Wines

60-70% Grenache (1920s-1930s, 1947-48), 15-30% Mourvèdre, 5-7% Counoise, 5-7% Cinsault on the 3 highest terraces, north-facing vineyards (officially Cabrières, Maucoil), pink clay, galet stones, quartz, cool soils, some limestone, destemmed, 3 week concrete vat vinification, 1-2 pumping overs daily at first, then every 2 days, manual cap punching in open 50 hl vats, malo in large 25-55 hl barrel where raised 12 months, then 3 months stay in concrete vat, unfined, unfiltered, 2-2.5 gm SO2 applied at bottling, the only use of it, biodynamic wine, 6,000 b

2016 ()

very dark robe; plenty of blackberry is on the go on the bouquet, which is ripe, ample. There’s sunshine and the South here, offers a good curve of appeal. The palate is rich right away, generously filled, on soaked fruits, a sponge-like absorption of fruits. The heart id solid, before a salt touch is a direct close. It’s big wine, but coherent. There’s no heat, just scale. “It has the vintage in it, but also a line of tension,” J-P Daumen. 15.5°. From 2023. 2044-47 Feb 2019

2015

red robe. There’s a blackberry fruit lead aroma on the nose, which is muscular, broad, young. The palate bears compact content that comes in a tight weave, a criss-cross of fresh tannins attached, pebbly content, stone fruits. This is very typical of its place, the Grenache heart is true. It ends on grippy tannins, quite a lot of them. 15°. From 2021. 2036-38 Feb 2018 Previously Sept 2016 ****(*) (large barrel) bright, dark robe. There is a good free wheel of bright fruit on the nose, lots of vigour, salt-iodine present, cool blueberry, licorice. This is stylish, offers pebbly red fruits, plums, has salted late dabs. It runs with a consistent flow, holds suave and nicely deep gras, that is well measured, has a good welter of content. It builds well to a garrigue style finish. The limestone and cool soils contribute to a mineral clack on the close. 15°. From 2021. 2035-38 Sept 2016

2014 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED: acid rot, too much rain.

2013 ()

dark red, healthy robe. There is good curve and depth in a handsome mix of black fruit and flowers, black cherry on the nose; it’s wide, too, carries slight reduction. Off we go on the palate: this is striking, wholesome, has good intensity of juice, ends on ripe, firm tannins. It kicks off very well. It’s very good, has a tasty, sustained heart. It is a major, high grade Châteauneuf, with character. There is concentrated balance here, and it has the richness to expand over time. It’s very long, and ends on gorse, rosemary associations. I call this a Thinker’s wine. 14.5°. “It’s very tight knit, has garrigue in it,” Jean-Paul Daumen. The crop was under 15 hl/ha this year, and the Mourvèdre was 30% instead of 15-20%. 3,500 b, down from 5,000-6,000 b. From 2019. 2034-37 Sept 2016

2012 ()

dark red robe. The bouquet is very juvenile, the blackberry fruit intense, well clad, full – it breathes a sunswept picture via its touch of sweetness. The nose has hardly started out, but will vary well. The palate has an enjoyable debut, is easy to like, gives coated red berry fruit with a good run of inbuilt tannin helping its route to a complete finish.  This hangs together well, is good Châteauneuf with terroir in its veins, and has enough body to handle the degree. 15.5°. Harvested 15 October this year. From 2018. 2033-35  Nov 2015

2011

(concrete vat, bottling spring 2013) good, dark red. Has a blackberry aroma, deeper than the Trois Sources 2011; it shows jam fruit with a saline side, crunchy fruit, light baking, and spreads across the nose well. The palate is profound, has three-quarter depth, darkens towards the finish, takes on a licorice depth, intensity. Shows Mourvèdre length, is a backward wine of good structure that needs patience. Has a crunchy end, oak influence there. From 2016. 15°. “The use of a 25 hl barrel only 4 years old has marked it,” Jean-Paul Daumen. 15°. 2029-31  Dec 2012

2010

dark, full-up robe. Walnut, dark fruiting on the nose which holds a firm core of blackberry, shows polished leather, mineral from dry rocks. The palate starts on tightly-knit black berry, sustained depth with crunchy, lingering tannins . .  the interior is deep and mysterious, and it persists on notably big fruiting at the end. Chewy finish – almost a meal on its own there. There is salted cut in its tannins which travel far thanks to the Mourvèdre, and the exit is fresh. This is a good quality wine. From 2016. especially good around 2021. I find carbonic gas on this – Jean-Paul applied 400-450 mg of it. 15.5°. 2034-36  Dec 2012