Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

26-45% Roussanne, 6-35% Clairette, 20-52% Grenache blanc, 0-6% Picardan from La Crau (E), Grand Pierre (N-E), Bois Sénéchaux (N-E), whole bunch pressing, Roussanne, Clairette fermented 77% used 550-litre oak cask, 23 % concrete vat, raised 45% 1-3 year 228-litre oak casks, 23% used 600-litre oak casks, 23% concrete vat, 9% new 228-litre oak casks 8-9 months (some Grenache blanc oval concrete vat fermented, raised 8-9 months), malo completed on the oak part, 2,075-3,400 b & 60-300 mags

2016 ()

served blind at lunch with the Guigals: yellow robe. This is soft, pure and easy, has a soft compote or stewed fruits air, and the palate is similar. It’s silken but tame, low on character. 2023-24 Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2017 ***(*) shiny yellow robe. Peach with pear show in an attractive bouquet, helped by its neat ripeness and sweetness. There’s variety to come with time, good, small prompts. The palate is also elegant, bears rounded content, a juicy gras, with a good development of fresh, dried fruits, nut paste, towards the finish. It’s pretty streamlined as a style, in the New Wave manner. Peach fruit with liquid honey appear on the aftertaste. This has fine acidity, is a pared back southern wine, its wings clipped to some extent by the current fashion for tension over fat. 14°. 2024-25 Oct 2017 As a p.s. the Guigals served this to me blind at lunch in Nov 2017, and I found it tame once more, only to have them announce that it was awarded a Platinum at the Decanter Wine Awards in 2017. WHAT IS THAT???

2015 ()

yellow robe. Orange peel, peach airs feature in a well rounded bouquet, has a calm depth. The palate gives tangy white fruited content, with some kick along the palate, as a southern wine. It finishes on a savoury gras, a nice fleshy continuation. Good with veal, sweetbreads, pork. It’s thorough, and very long on the close. STGT influences here. 13.5°. 3,000 b. 46% Gren bl, 28% Clair, 26% Rouss. Bottled July 2016. 2026-28 Sept 2016

2014

shiny yellow. Peach softness with greengage, aniseed on the nose, and the oak influence via vanilla-oak, toffee. The palate shows some early oak, holds attractive fine gras, is very suave, really beau for la table, fine cuisine. There is light spicing. It is super elegant, with nudges of oak, has very good fresh length. It will become more mineral if you leave it – drink from 2018. 2027-28 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ***(*) clear yellow robe. The nose is fragrant, redolent of spring flowers, freesias. There is a soft plum-pear undertone. It is attractively rounded. The palate sets out a delicate tableau, bears fine gras richness, and runs with steady appeal. A charming wine, if a little in the “don’t scare the horses” New Wave camp. Drink with turbot, halibut, steamed foods, or serve as an elegant aperitif. A changed blend this year: 52% Gren bl, 36% Rouss, 6% Clair, 6% Picardan. 14°. €32. 2,075 b & 60 mags. Bottled 11 June 2015. 2020-21  Oct 2015 

2011

pale, flinty yellow. Cooked apple, soaked pear aroma that is “high” offers white raisin, sweet notions and a note of banana, as if the cellar is prominent. The palate starts on a white jam taste, while a rather discordant acidity goes in and out of it. Not much action here. It was bottled six months ago, and seems dumb. It gives the sense that it can lengthen and define further – it is fenced in for now. 14°. €31. 40% R, 30% Cl, 30% GB this year. 2022-24  Dec 2012

2010 ()

pale, lime yellow; a minor air of reduction is set onto a broad, round and plump white fruit setting on the nose, comes with hints of varnish, garrigue herbs, pear jam. The palate is tight and reserved on the debut; it is graceful along the palate, bears fine acidity. It is not all as one now, and is still searching for its focus and equilibrium. There is some late charge or burn, a feature found with some 2010s at present. From 2014. 14°. 2020-22. 47% R, 25% Gren bl, 25% Cl, 3% Picardan, 88% cask. 12% concrete vat, bottled July 2011 this year. Feb 2012

2009

gleaming, rather pale yellow. Banana-apricot-pear ensemble on the nose, which has a cosy ripeness within serving to soften it. The palate has a direct debut – off it goes. A little of an acetate tang to it; it ends on white jam, peach flavouring, has an aftertaste of white strawberry with dried fruits, vanilla pod. There is acidity evident. It is a bit limited in length, and narrow on the palate. €29. 2019-20 Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ***(*) pale yellow; fine, agreeable nose – citrus airs, salted celery and spice. The palate has a briefly sealed up debut, has an orange marmalade tang in its flavour. It builds in depth and weight as it goes, ending on relative power across the palate, a bit four-square for now. Decant this. A good, steady operator that has some deft touches. Understated wine with a clear aftertaste. 2018-20 Oct 2010

2008 ()

pale yellow; oak-pineapple, rather cliché nose – banana, flan – with oak in behind, honeycomb traces: it is quite agreeable. The palate is fresh in style, its length aided by oak. Respectable gras in this, so it is up to drinking with poultry, steamed fish, vegetable pasta. Not a profound wine. 2016-17 Dec 2009