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The Wines

40% Grenache blanc, 20% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc, 5% Picpoul, 5% Picardan from sandy-clay, galet stone soils on Pignan (N-E), Les Galimardes (S-E), La Font du Pape (N-E), La Crau (E), Bois de la Vieille (S-W), av age 60 years in 2016, destemmed, 75-80% steel vat, 20-25% new 228-litre oak cask fermented at 16°C, raised 4-6 months, lees stirred, malo blocked, 3,000 b

2014 ()

yellow robe. The bouquet is charming if reserved, presents a graceful aroma of peach with apricot, also roasted nuts. This is a serene wine, with fine white stone fruit and acidity in play on the palate; it runs most consecutively, never a foot out of place, and ends roundly, a note of pear there. It can do the aperitif. 14°. 3,000 b. €24. Bottled Feb 2015. 2021-22 Oct 2015 

2013

bright, pale yellow hue. The nose is herbal, with a touch of mocha oak. The palate is rounded, but doesn’t seem to have the fruit to take the oak. This is diffuse and disjointed.There is a drying finish from the oak. From 2015. 2019-20 JL Oct 2014

2011

medium depth yellow; honey, butter, vanilla-oak airs; there is a note of laurel from the outcrops in the background, some dried apricots. The palate delivers a steady ball of flavour, mixing nut and vanilla. Oak features on the finish, where there is a brioche-toast effect. The fruiting is subdued for now. Steady, unspectacular wine suited to lightly-flavoured foods – it doesn’t have the body for more than that. Effective, a bit arm’s length. 14°. Bottled March 2012, €16. 2018-19  Dec 2012

2007 No Rating

1st bottle: mild yellow; apricot, accentuated orange marmalade aroma, the white fruit ripe to almost being in decline. Tangy fruit similar to the nose on the palate – a sense of mould in this – needs food to compensate for its lack of freshness. Decant this reductive wine which is dry on the end. 2nd bottle: rather pale, legs down the glass. Wax, high tone, honey aroma that is a bit limited. Sticky palate fruit that lacks cut, is uneven, rustic, curls up on the finish, lactic signs here. Oh well, I tried twice. Nov 2008

2006

pale pear yellow; the bouquet initially shows a spiced, fresh top air, with a flan underlay that denotes some ripeness and classic white Châteauneuf varietal use such as Grenache blanc and Clairette. Some apricot and a little honey, then barley sugar also come through. With only around 30 minutes` airing, the bouquet becomes a little flat. This is traditional on the palate – there is nuttiness in a generally fat-textured context. But the palate is also rather flat, a simple country child with no guile. The length is OK, but the wine lacks nuance and core focus of taste. 13.5°. To 2010. Sept 2008

2005 ()

fresh, zappy nose – light spice, dried fruit skins, faint pineapple and varnish. Escapist attack – some light, butter-lime content, but doesn’t have the usual depth of matter one would expect. Spice on the fringes and is very much there for the aperitif. Innocuous, but not thorough enough for me. I wonder how old the Grenache blanc is, plus how ripe the crop. Empty finish. Day 2 – disagreeable. 13.5° 2009-10 Feb 2007