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The Wines

100% Roussanne (mid-1980s) from galet stone soils on Les Serres (S-E), 1-2 week vinification, 50-80% in steel vat, 20-50% new oak, raised 5 months, lees stirred, malo blocked, has been called L'Insolente, 1,200-1,500-2,000 b

2019

firm yellow robe, nice and inviting. The bouquet is low-key, but has an even depth, with notes of peach and brioche baked bread, a hint of oak. There is an implied weight, with elegance aiding its levity. The palate links very well with the nose, offers a gliding run of white fruits with a supple, classy texture, and a refined, rounded, slightly grapey finish. This conveys the finesse of the Roussanne with great accuracy, and its detail sets it up for refined dishes, steamed cuisine, Japanese dishes springing to mind. 13.5°. 2027-28 July 2020

2016

full yellow. Has a nice, bold, open bouquet, airs of orange zest, ginger, white plum; it carries good southern ripeness, with caramel-oak present. The palate is tangy from start to finish, the tang approaching bitter towards the end. Orange and peach feature with grippy lining on the second half; there are salt touches on the aftertaste. I’m not quite sure why it’s so near bitterness. The aftertaste brings in a little tannin, plus spearmint. 14.5°. Try from spring 2018. 2021-22 Nov 2017

2015

fine yellow robe. The nose is very elegant, not a note out of place, even if it’s quiet for now. White peach, white plum, light licorice mingle for now. The palate has an airborne nature, a flavour of greengage, then lightly roasted nuts towards the finish. It needs time to emerge and show more obvious definition. The length is attractive, brings in a little note of toffee-oak, subtly so. Decant. 14°. From mid-2017. 2026-27 Sept 2016

2014 ()

quite a full yellow robe. Pear, beeswax, varnish airs feature in a nose of depth, and still on the hidden side. The palate is broad, and pretty well filled; there is fleshy gras richness, and the texture is rounded, suave through to the finish. Genuine white Châteauneuf, suited to tuna, sauced fish, poultry, John Dory. From spring 2016: there is a moment of dip just before the close. 14°. 1,200 b. €21.50. 80% vat, 20% oak. Bottled Feb 2015. 2023-25  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

fuller yellow hue than most. Slightly clumpy apple and herb aromas on the nose. The palate has plenty of glycerol and fat, but the fruit seems rather dull. This stays within itself. Alcohol the dominant factor on the finish. 14.5°. 2020-21 JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

pale yellow; has a bonbon, candy aroma across the bouquet, a little nutty snap in its white fruit jam. The palate is subdued but full. There is plenty here – it shows most of all towards the finish. Has gras, and a similar texture, is suited to foods. It is rich for now, needs to vary and gain nuance. From 2012. Decant this. 15°. 2,000 b, €20.50. 2019-20 Feb 2012

2010

sound yellow, legs down the glass. Has a pear, baked fruit such as apricot aroma, an acetate feature, and a mix of ripeness and tang that is like a lemon curd paste (a lemon thick jam). The palate is dense from a near cooked sugar flavour, sits upright in the glass, has red wine features – a tannic trail at the end. There is a pastry note on the finish, and the aftertaste is toasted. Not much fine subtlety, merits drinking with robust country foods. Decant this. 14.5°. €20.20 at the cellars, 80% steel, 20% oak, 1,500 b this year. 2019-20 Dec 2011

2009 ()

full yellow, minor gold traces; peach-apricot mix on a honeyed nose, plus a flan air – ripe white plum fruits. This has been constructed for foods, is rich, with oak implicit, before it gets into a clear, spiced home straight. It is nicely wide and artful, with a tang of orange marmalade on the aftertaste. The palate is fine and polished, the finish stylish and spiced. Best with foods. Drink from 2011. 2019-20 Oct 2010

2008

minor yellow shades in the robe, legs down the glass. The nose reflects fruit that is on the turn, drifting into a hammock of decomposition, an air of lime behind it helps it. Compact, fairly solid palate – gives baked white fruits, a flavour of white raisin and a line of tannin at the end. This will go well with the sweetness of Asiatic foods. It ends on a minerality that I find a bit chemical. 2015. Dec 2009

2007

mid yellow colour; has a pretty thorough nose led by baked fruit tart, and also dried fruits and fennel, while traces of toasting float in the air. Expect honey and salted aromas to come along as it evolves. The palate runs in a buttery, fairly full, round manner. There is a good little spot of acidity at the end, and the wine lengthens quietly to reveal a little gourmandise. The aftertaste is a touch heated. It is a high 14°. Bottled March 2008. 2015-16 June 2008