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The Wines

70-80% Grenache, 10-15% Syrah, 8-10% Mourvèdre, 0-7% Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Terret Noir and white grapes Grenache blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul from sites inc La Crau (E), destemmed (Syrah, Cinsault whole bunch until late 2000s), 18-25 day steel vat vinification at 27°C, pumping overs, aged 50-100% large 50 hl barrel, 0-50% concrete vat, 0-50% vat casks 10-12 months, filtered, 65-80,000 b


dark red; this has a subdued, stewed aroma, led by raspberry and a floral note, is a little ponderous. The palate holds cherry fruit, spiced flavours, with an edge in the tannins that can settle. It’s a straight down the line wine in shape for now, can amplify and gain more stuffing. It’s a little on raw power for now. Best to wait until 2023. 15.5°. 65,000 b. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. Bottled June 2019. €18. 2039-42 Oct 2019

2017 ()

(vat/barrel) dark plum colour; has a loganberry-blackberry aroma with a ripe curve, a coulis angle, to it. There’s some lingering intensity, a note of prune from that. The palate bears some smoothly delivered, charged content, a floral embedding in its raspberry-plum flavour. There’s an inner wave of degree as it finishes on an insistent note. The degree is on the upper limit here, but there is body and savoury matter around it. 15.2°. 65,000 b. From mid-2021. 2037-39 Oct 2018


(vat/barrel) full red colour. This has an open and attractive nose which is just on the weighty side, a curvaceous liqueur fruiting present, a mass of abundance. We are in the realm of sipping wine, I reckon. The palate rolls with fleshy content, plenty of savoury appeal, the red fruits, strawberries in syrup, leading the flavour.  The tannins are well buried inside it, while the aftertaste produces a splash of liqueur, mulled fruit. It’s an obvious wine, no mystery. 15.6°. 80,000 b. Raised 50% concrete vat, 50% large barrel. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. From 2020. 2038-40 Oct 2017

2015 ()

the robe looks tired for a one old year wine – it is a sober plum, lacks lustre. There is an obvert red fruited sweetness on the nose, and it comes across as lacking scope. The palate holds juicy content, raspberry fruit, and is on the roll already, with a little tannin to bolster the late moments. This is plain, lacks the stature and depth of the leaders. There is a small knot of graininess on the finish. 14.5°. From spring 2017. 2030-32 Sept 2016


(large barrel/vat) dark red robe, with lustre. This has a nose that gives an immediate blackberry intensity, the fruit like jelly, and shining through. The palate links closely to the nose, with a beguiling and stylish blackberry fruit to entertain. The finish sits down and becomes grounded, persists, and shows local strength. A good, de la terre, rather than of the air 2014. From 2018. 2030-32  Oct 2015


(large barrel/vat) medium red colour, light at the rim. The nose has a plummy, red fruit character, and is quite open and expressive. The palate is light but juicy. The finish is firm finish. This has compact weight and style. Easy but correct wine. 15°. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 10% Mourv. From 2016. Raised 50% concrete vat, 50% large barrel. 2023-25 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

fair to middling red colour; the nose presents toffee-caramel notes, soaked plums, strawberries, baked bread – there is a fat heart to it. This is a simple presentation of squeezy red fruit, has soft sides, a little gummy note from its raising in oak. This is a tame Châteauneuf that lacks horizon, will develop a little, may gain some weight and lengthen. Facile. In bottle already. From mid-2014. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 10% Mourv this year. 2027-30  Nov 2013

2011 ()

dark, shiny red. Red fruit tart and crust aroma with a soaked raspberries richness, redcurrant. There are thyme and garrigue dust airs – a nose of character. The palate delivers waves of liquid, gummy red fruit that is clear overall, has dark spices attached. It ends on a tar, wee note of burn – the length is sound. It is still work in progress, will be approachable. From mid-2014. 15°. 2029-31  Dec 2012


2 bottles tasted blind, neither impresses: bottle 1: modest red robe; the nose is limited, has green aspects, lacks focus. The palate hints at underripe crop, has a chalky, ash-style edging that distracts. It means it travels uneasily. Lacks true core. Bottle 2: is a bit fresher, but still lean, and has burnt notes on the palate. 14.5°. Sept 2011

2006 ()

(barrel/vat) mainly a red robe, suggesting a lot of Grenache. This seems to have an almost southern zone bouquet, which is floral-tinged with some pepper and sweetness – is a bit escapist. The palate carries simple fruit that has no real lasting impression – it moves on through swiftly and does not leave a real footprint. Workmanlike wine for early drinking. 2020-22. 70% Gren, 15% Syr, 7% Mourv, 8% Cins, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Terret Noir and white grapes, 50% large barrel (half new), 50% concrete vat raising 12-14 months this year. Nov 2007

2005 ()

mid red colour; subdued, red fruit nose, with some bite, shows cooked plum, brambly fruits, herbs, maybe some oak. Notably well-knit palate with a savoury flavour, holds its smooth texture all through. Plenty of primary fruit appeal – typical ripe Grenache without excess hang time and all that. Beau, unpretentious wine in the modern style, grows through the palate. Length good. 2023-26 Nov 2006


pale, very Grenache red colour; fleeting aroma that is low-key – maybe some red fruit. Quiet red fruit that shows its cards now on the palate. Fair length, with a little end tar and tannin. Lacks character, limited horizons. 2019-21 Oct 2006