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The Wines

20-60% Grenache blanc, 20-60% Clairette, 10% each Bourboulenc, Roussanne, 1982 from Relagnes (lot of clay), since 2005 a faster process before bottling, direct pressing, 16°-18°C steel vat fermentation 8 days, raised 4-7 months (was 8 months), malo blocked 2,750-4,000 b

2019 ()

pale yellow, green tints in the robe; the bouquet gives a peach jam aroma, a curl of sweetness, with notes of primrose, gentle flowers and infused herbal tea. The palate is marked by the Clairette, with carbonic gas in evidence, has a patrol of aniseed-fennel within, a nectarine, grapey surrounding, the finish curved, smooth. There are rose petal affinities within that bring character. The aftertaste is lip smacking, a bit pleasurably cheeky. It’s a neat, straightforward drinking Châteauneuf blanc, not quite as deep or interesting as some. 14°. 2027-28 Nov 2020

2018

firm yellow colour; the bouquet has weight, but is reserved for now. There are white peach, nutty airs circulating. The palate bears compressed richness, is nice and thorough, with a fresh revival as it ends. This combines good local weight with freshness, works well as a table wine with ageing potential. It’s more complete and together than many this year, has style, the length very assured. 14°. 4,000 b. 60% Clairette, 20% Gren bl, 10% Bourb, 10% Rouss. Bottled Apr 2019. €33. 2032-34 Oct 2019

2017 ()

yellow robe with a pale rim; the nose is sturdy, square, based on brioche bread with a note of orange marmalade, sea salt. The palate is traditional, grounded, a little dumb; it holds good glycerol-based content, is well couched, ends with a firm squeeze. There are citrus, orange zest threads along the palate that perk it up. This is good, has character, is a superior 2017 for la table. Decant it. 14°. 4,000 b. 60% Clair, 20% Gren bl, 10% Bourb, 10% Rouss. Bottled April 2018. €33. 2030-32 Oct 2018

2015

fine yellow robe. The bouquet is quiet, but potentially charming, elegant. It is smoky, shows greengage, kiwi fruit. The palate bears attractive white fruits with a neat freshness running all through. It captures genuine southern depth with precise detail attached via its freedom and lift. It’s up market, classy white Châteauneuf, deserves a bonne table. 14°. 4,000 b. 60% Clair, 20% Gren bl, 10% Bourb, 10% Rouss. Bottled April 2016. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014

mild yellow robe, legs visible. Roasted almonds, salty first aroma here – a note of beeswax as well. This suggests a traditional style of Châteauneuf blanc, since it isn’t fruit that is foremost. The palate delivers right on cue – a lovely consistent run of shapely, nicely rich content, compote of white fruits with an elegant freshness. Absolutely STGT wine, the place present in my glass. It has been made without hurry. The finish is well defined, complete. This really hits the target – balance, length, sense of place. 14°. 2027-30  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

pale, clear yellow robe. Has a floating, rather escapist nose, gives a drift of possibly pear fruit, a light aniseed and salt backdrop. This is immediate Châteauneuf white with rather a cellar-induced style, which means it is on the wire, the low temperature fermentation acting against some of its potential local gras. It is rather taut. It summons a little spot of richness just before the finish. The aftertaste brings in camomile, infused tea, honey. There is a little nuttiness in the flavour. The degree is quite high for its taut, tight character. White wine isn’t a standard bearer for Pegaü. It suffers from a lack of true interest. 14°. 2020-21  Feb 2015 Previously Oct 2014 **(*) bright, translucent hue to the robe. Slightly sweaty, bruised apple nose. The palate seems disjointed : it holds plenty of gras richness, but has stewed aromatics and strident acidity (acidification?). Needs to be revisited later. From spring 2015. 14°. 2019-20 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

pale robe. Rather high fruit first air, damp wool notes, peaches on the turn, stewed apple, nutty and oily notes. There is an early sense of limited richness on the palate, followed by a rather burnt stretch. It then eases a little on the aftertaste. There is a tannic casing here and there, and it isn’t wholesome or an ensemble in the final stages. Can it meld? The aftertaste is rather vacant. Try in six months. For now it is 2.5 stars. Bottled June 2013. 14°. 60% Clair, 20% GB, 10% B, 10% R this year. €24. 2019-20  Oct 2013

2011

shiny, pale yellow, legs. The nose features a mix of mandarin and hazelnut, the nutty side foremost, also a note of cardboard, honeycomb. The palate lacks a real note of harmony in its flavour, and the palate mixes some sweetness with toffee. There are rather burnt moments towards the finish. An uneven ride here. This exists too much on its alcohol and clumpy fat. Food is required. There is a modest glow at the end. The problem here is one of alcohol and a relative lack of depth. 13.5°. 60% Clair, 20% GB, 10% B, 10% R this year. €26. To 2018.  Dec 2012

2010 ()

pale robe. Zesty, upfront nose. The palate is fresh, a wine suited to aperitif drinking. There is a good run of fine, live white fruit, and an agreeable spot of late gras richness. Mixes the freshness and the freedom with light gras. 1,800 b this year. 2020-22. March 2011

2008 ()

light yellow colour; the nose is fragrant –presents flowers, white fruits, an air that drifts gently across the glass. The palate is also very tidy and becoming, gives a quiet landscape of white fruit, a self-contained local depth, all in harmony. It drinks easily now, runs on harmony over power, widens late on, retaining its gracious nature there. There is rather modern polish on top of refined local strength. It grips well late on. Its quality is under the radar, especially in relation to the so-called fine wine winners of white Burgundy. 2020-22  Oct 2010  Previously April 2009 *** (steel vat) pale robe; clear, fresh nose that reflects the presence of Bourboulenc, has pear in it. The palate is pretty, has good length. This is charming, mid-weight wine that would make a bonny aperitif. “It took two weeks to vinify rather than the usual one week this year,” Laurence Féraud. Nov 2008

2007 ()

(vat) quite open, expressive, nutted white fruits with some power inside the aroma. Rich toned palate of white fruit with a sidekick of marzipan, almond. A little late honey comes through. Sound length, fairly rich wine. 2020-22 Nov 2007

2006

pale robe; apricot, dried fruits and a little honeysuckle in the bouquet. The palate has a tight weave, with quiet richness in behind, a moderated intensity. The flavour is of white stone fruits, the length is decent. A little lacking in flamboyance and deep-seated fruit width, shows a certain steel. Better from 2010. “It has passed its first phase, and become more subdued,” Laurence Féraud. 2018-21 Nov 2007

2005

fresh, direct and clear nose of white fruits. Fruit is ripe on the attack, and decent richness here. Length is OK. Subdued from its recent bottling. Have added some margin for that. 2020-22 Feb 2006

2004 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – the white crop went into the red wine