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The Wines

60-80% Grenache (1990 and younger, was 90% until late 2000s), 10-20% Syrah (introduced late 2000s), 5-15% Mourvèdre (early 1980s, Le Devès, Cabrières, La Crau), 4-5% Cinsault, 0-5% Clairette blanche from a total of 13 hectares, mainly from Ras Cassa (S-E), from 2011 essentially young vines fruit & fruit from late ripening zones, (no longer includes La Crau (E), Les Pialons (N), av age is 35-40 years, destemmed, 20-day steel vat vinification, concrete vat raised 10-12 months, then 30-60 hl barrel 6+ months, unfined, filtered, the 2nd wine, first made 2002, previously known as Vieux Mas des Papes, 100-130,000 b (up from 65,000 b)

2019 ()

(large barrel) Grenache-inspired quite full red robe; the bouquet leads on an aroma of sweet, musky red fruits with a note of spice, a vegetal tone as well. There is a touch of perfume, the exotic, in it. The palate serves plum fruited content with slightly chewy tannins, a fresh, menthol presence on the finish, a glow of power and a compressed feel there. It’s in a very primary state, but has a forthright character, doesn’t play to the gallery, and will gradually fuse and furnish. The mid-palate works well, with some strength in its juice there. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 6% Mourv, 4% Cins. From 2023. 2039-41 Nov 2020

2018

(barrel, bottling July 2020) red colour, bright hue. Has a jaunty, up and on the go nose, immediate life and impact - most inviting it is, has bundles of red fruits, cherries. The palate bears some garrigue herbs, garrigue influences, garners pepper towards the finish, has a slightly tarry accumulation towards the close. This is w.o.w. Châteauneuf, really in the zone. It ends on some gummy tannins, is full of bounce, verve. There is light crunchiness on the finale, powder in the tannins. All destemmed. From mid-2021. 2039-41 Oct 2019

2017

bright red; the nose carries potential, offers refined red fruits, suave appeal. The palate coasts along with gracious matter, raspberry fruits that have pep, is a good road runner. Its tannins fit well, with just a squeeze of thickness in them. This will please, is a lovely package, very aromatic and fruit-filled, with notes of mystery here and there, a little chiselling of tannin. High entertainment from this. There is a touch of herbs, gorse on the clear zing aftertaste. From 2021, but it drinks well now in its toute jeunesse. Many small details have accumulated to make this as it is. “It has harmony, vibration,” Daniel Brunier. 15°. 2038-40 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2018 ***(*) (barrel, bottling June 2019) bright red robe; the nose is very aromatic, leads on mulled, liqueur red fruits, sweetness implanted – pastilles – has an easy approach, toffee. The palate comes with cosy red fruits, stone fruits, the content flattering, supple, with notable ripeness that is sustained on the red fruits, big red cherries in view. It is dense but aromatic, takes in some late charge. This is gourmand, suave wine. It ends on a note of clarity. It’s not a big horizon wine, but is sympa, is easy to drink. “It is re-closing, tightening on its tannins,” Nicolas Brunier. “It is gourmand,” Daniel Brunier. From late 2020. 2035-37 Oct 2018

2016

(large barrel) dark red. There is a good mix of black and red berries on the nose, inner sweetness, an attractive coulis style in the persistent fruit. There are notes of licorice. It’s rich, its abundance rare for this wine. The palate presents dried herbs, dusty trails with cosy richness, which is nicely thick. It courses along well. Dark fruits, blackberries, some black chocolate feature in a good swirl, with late chalk from the tannins, their powder well present, black olives on the close. It is a good, interesting garrigue wine of heart. It will be raised four to five months longer than usual, with a racking in between. Tannins play a good role in adding density. From 2021. 2038-40 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(large barrel) rather bright red robe. There is a quiet sweep of strawberry with some raspberry across the nose, which has a curvy nature, a little delicacy, and a drift of rose hip. The palate is sympathique, holds plump content based on supple juice, which flows well. It doesn’t have great depth, serves as an early drinking Châteauneuf. The finish gives geranium, clove, rocky notes. The finish is a bit out on its own, is grainy for now. From mid-2018. 2028-31 Sept 2016

2014 ()

red robe, medium depth. Red fruits pastilles, floral rose-hip and raspberry duo on the nose, with light licorice; it is pretty open, gives easy access. The palate starts in tune with the nose – there is a rounded orb of small red fruits with good breeze from the second half, where energy comes through, and invites another glass. This has late impetus, good saltiness. It is elegant Châteauneuf, without the gras of the leaders. 14.5°. Bottled Jan 2016. 60% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv, 10% Cins/Clairette blanche. From 2018 for a bit more depth. 2027-28 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ***(*) (large barrel, bottling March 2016) clear, bright red robe. Has an open, quite fired raspberry/red cherry aroma, a bonny curve of florality. It is a tender but quietly deep bouquet with some herbes de Provence and a touch of red meat depth. The palate holds good grain, flows with an easy run of red berry fruits, touches of sweetness alongside. This is easy to appreciate. It builds depth, tannin, crunch as it ends. An agile, scented Châteauneuf that offers nicely naked Grenache. The finale is tasty, and can lengthen over time. 15°. From 2018. 2028-29  Oct 2015

2013 ()

(large barrel) pale colour with a very light, almost brick rim. Has a grassy, herbal nose. There are more emphatic plummy, kirsch notes on the palate, but the gras richness and weight seem absent. The tannins are grainy and need settling. From 2016. 2024-25 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

quite a pale red. Red berries, small ones and nuttiness show on the nose. There is attractive juice on the attack; this is plump, holds mild tannins, the length fair. I find it a bit indistinct. The bouquet is building up, though, and the palate has some potential. It doesn’t hand out its wares freely. From 2017. 14.5°. 2028-30  Nov 2015 Previously Nov 2013 *** (large barrel, bottling March 2014) mild, very Grenache red. Busty, forward, round air of red fruit with a liberal dose of herbs of Provence. The palate aims for a floral, rose-peony flower take, bears low slung fruit with immediate, cool grain tannins around it. The finish is smoky, needs to come round as it ages. This needs decanting and smoothing out of its folds. The finish is charged, shows a compressed juice on the end. 15°. From 2016. 2027-28  Nov 2013

2011 ()

plum red colour that is tapering at the top, already. Spice box-cigar box first air with aromas of black raisin, oriental spices. The palate is also spicy, comes with a lot of criss-crossing red fruit, smoky mineral forces. It extends on a grainy burst and is currently a demanding drink. Menthol and a late gasp come along. It really needs time, but I am not sure about its gras richness – how deep and central it is for the future. From spring 2015. 15°. 70% Gren, 15% Syr, 10% Mourv, 5% Cins, 130,000 b this year. Bottled March 2013. 2023-24  Nov 2013  Previously Dec 2012 ***(*) red, Grenache typical robe. The bouquet offers fine red fruit with a light pepper backdrop and a bonny trail of thyme and rosemary. The attack is enjoyable – it holds really bonny fruit, is a wine that is quickly likeable, one with a suave, near silken texture. It gains depth, smokiness on the finish. This will be grand from mid-2014; its length is round and flavoured. I like the dusty, ash-like finish. “It is a pretty wine, a good example of a second wine that displays the vintage in its style,” Daniel Brunier. Bottled March 2013. 14.5°. 2025-27  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(bottling in Jan 2012) bright, proper red colour, legs down glass. Red fruits such as redcurrants in a jelly sweetness on the nose, delivered with a sunshine smile, and a light under breeze of aniseed and licorice, graphite, that adds freedom. Alert debut to the palate that is infused with smoky, flinty notes, ends on thicker flavours such as black raisin and tight red fruits which are attractive. It moves well, is tasty. A good, quite early-style Châteauneuf, likeable wine. From late 2012 it will be on the go. 14.5°. 85% Gren, 10% Cinsault, 5% Mourvèdre this year. 2021-23 Nov 2011

2009

subtle red robe, not a Big Boy. Brioche, baked red fruits aroma in a compact, reserved nose; it reflects 2009 depth, is a youngster and gives hints of licorice and fennel, and cool red stone fruit. The palate gives a muscular, close-knit line-up of red fruit Grenache with a big run of firm flavour. Has a red berry, slightly nutty finale of good depth. Genuine wine, good length. It gains weight and drive as it goes. Decant this. From 2014. 14.5°. 2025-26  July 2012  Previously Oct 2010 **(*) matt style plum robe; local, herbal-red fruits nose that is just a bit simple, will evolve quite fast. The palate is easily-fruited, is near to ready. Has a plum flavour with moments of light, quite fresh tannin. Fine-textured, has freedom. Not that deep, but runs OK, though it doesn`t spread across the palate very much. From mid-2011. A bit plain. 2018-20 Oct 2010 Previously June 2010 ***(*) (vat) bright red robe; mulberry, lime tree flowers (tilleul), really abundant air to the nose – red berries that are simmering on the stove, baked stones present. This has the 2009 concentration on the palate, via its compact red jam flavour and plenty of tannin from half way. It ends on mature fruit, with the warmth of the year present. Has a herbal, southern, pebbly finish. A big, full wine, Grenache on parade – the first vintage of 100% Grenache, a good year for that. From 2013. 2027-29 June 2010

2008 ()

this was bottled in Feb 2010, four months earlier than usual. Grenache red robe; the nose has sweet backing to its red berry jam air, is quiet willing, lightly sunny. The palate moves in the direction of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape roundness, but lacks real body. Has a glisten of late tannin – one senses the fruit is almost, but not, 100% ripe. The mid-palate shows wee richness, but either side of that is less certain. It ends on a pebbly note: needs 15 months to establish its length and to settle the finish. 2020-22 June 2010 Previously Dec 2009 ** (vat) red with a few black tints in the robe. Very primary, first stage bouquet that is more handsome than the palate – marked blackberry, softly sweet aroma with nutty airs within. Easy going black fruit lead on the palate, but it clamps down and takes on a stretched aspect after half way. Has fair guts or matter, but is clumsy for now. Honest wine, from late 2010. 2017-18 Dec 2009

2007

(vat/barrel) red, bright robe. The nose displays red jam aromas – the fruit noticeably ripe, and long hang time on the vines – there are mulled, liqueur tendencies here. The palate holds rich, forward fruit, similar to the nose; has a raspberry, unctuous flavour – a fruit coulis with sugar in it. Pleasant wine that could have more cut in it. Tannins gather at the end. To 2018-19 Nov 2008

2006

(barrel) this year 75-80% Grenache, rest Mourvèdre, Cinsault: bright, quite red robe; has an easy, soft fruit nose with herbs present and smoky airs. Holds a squeezy, accessible start to the palate, its red jam lingering a little. There is spice towards the finish, and pretty ripe tannin. Has a very Grenache style, with its red fruit and late fruit gum taste. Can be drunk pretty early, this – from 2009. To 2018-20 “We want a quaffing wine with often young vine fruit at its heart, vines that are under 20 to 25 years`old. That means there will be less concentration in the wine and more rapid pleasure for the drinker,” Frédéric Brunier. This to be bottled January 2008. Tasted Nov 2007

2005

(barrel) quite dark; rather soaked, black fruit with latent power in the bouquet, is broad and reflects late harvesting, very ripe crop. Red fruits with a marked tannic thread on palate, comes in a punchy, vigorous state. Needs leaving until mid-2009 to settle and integrate better. Length is OK. 2019-21 Nov 2006 Previously Oct 2006 **(*) (barrel) quite a bright medium red colour; live, red cherry aroma, with some baked stones, garrigue presence around the fruit. Direct, clean red fruit on the palate: no great depth, this runs straight, its end fruit is clear. Not very arresting. 2015-18 Oct 2006

2003

herbal, upright, cherry fruit in an open bouquet. Pretty thorough, compact palate – solid, mature and spiced red fruits here, with some end tar. A touch firm. Esp 2008 on. 2016-19 Oct 2006

2002

rather fragile red colour. Baked, marzipan bouquet that is earthy, gaining a fungal presence. Tenuous red fruit on palate, though texture has some oiliness to salve it. Uncomfortable - mixes up red flavours, spirit: is not harmonious. Bouquet has appeal, curiosity, palate less so. Red fruit, nougat finale. Drink now best. 2009 September 2005, London Previously March 2005 *(*) mild red robe. Light, smoky, red berry fruit aroma. Direct, peppery palate, fair length, licorice tint in it. Light wine, no real richness. Is a quaffing, early drinking, barbecue wine. 2007-09 March 2005, low pressure, rainy day in Bédarrides, Very little Syrah, a lot of crop sold off, Grenache at least 70%, Mourvèdre 25%, Syrah 5%, barrel raised 7-8 months