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The Wines

90% Grenache (1950s) from 70% galet stones down to 5 metres or more depth with red clay and sandy soils on the high plateau of Les Pialons (N-E) at 129 metres, 10% Mourvèdre (1970s) from sandy soils on Pignan (N-E) from a total of 13 hectares on (N-E) & Pignan (N-E), neighbours are Les Clefs d’Or and Le Vieux Donjon, 70% destemmed, part wood, part steel vat 35-40 day vinification, daily pumping overs, vat raised 12 months, then aged 60 hl barrel 10-12 months, unfined, unfiltered, released 2 years after harvest, “more elegant than La Crau, though the soil is similar”, first wine 2011, 35-40,000 b

2019

(barrel) tender red robe; the bouquet exudes a perfumed, rose-laden aroma that is redolent of pot-pourri, dried flowers and scented baskets, with a spiced interior, plum fruit central. It’s full of character, intrigue, finesse, as per this wine’s usual profile. The palate is a detailed affair, goes pitter patter along its path, with engaging, gourmand Grenache fruit, notes of still compact, compressed tannin in the second stage. This is a wine with leaning towards Burgundy, a Pinot take, as can be found with the Grenache when handled considerately from old vines. There is a very correct uptake of depth as it finishes, with a cendré, ash-like sign-off; the future is good – this will arrive at your door bearing mystical gifts. It deserves a très belle table, with lamb the immediate thought. 14.5°. From 2023-24, decant it. 2046-48 Nov 2020

2018 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED: "the mildew was violent on the plateau of Piedlong. We wanted to stay organic, so lost the battle. The Piedlong wine, about 100 hl, went into the Télégramme, forming around 15% of it," Daniel Brunier.

2017 ()

red robe; violets, floral airs feature in a sultry, inviting nose. It spreads its perfume with quiet generosity, has strawberry present, gives a true picture of Grenache on sand. The palate is rich, still making its way, has inner density, prolongs with a sure hand. This is velveteen in the glass. Its red fruit juice become intense towards the finish, liqueur notes on that. The aftertaste is peppery. Decant it. Bottled July 2019. From 2022. 2040-43 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2018 ***** (vat, bottling early July 2019) even red, fine red robe. The nose is striking, lovely red berry fruit, holds a lingering aroma, pockets of mystery with floral, rose hip notes well there. It’s like a Côte-Rôtie La Mouline in a warm vintage, gives a serene, most inviting start. The palate is spiced, red berry fruited, has good shape, is expressive, with good chalky cut in the tannins which adroitly change the texture. This will please mucho. Bravo. It’s long, well assembled, en finesse. It will be great in magnum. Serve in a large glass. 15°. From mid-2021. 2041-43 Oct 2018

2016 ()

fine red robe, is delicate. There are nicely full, subtle strokes on the nose which has a floral-spice seasoning, good inner depth, holds up well. It’s a pepper-spice fest. The palate links closely to the nose, on textured, suave gras richness, a rolling display of spiced Grenache. It’s starting to emerge, has late grip and good resolution, inner secrets, Christmas spicing. It’s nicely cool, well fresh. It’s moving steadily along. “It is floral and fruited at the same time,” Edouard Brunier. From 2021, 2042-45 Oct 2018 Previously Oct 2017 ****(*) (vat) fine red robe, a ruby top. Clove, flowers, white pepper show in a true bouquet of transparent purity; it resembles the 2015, with its spicing, but a bit more depth. The palate gives a suave, silken display, accompanied by serene tannins of great finesse, with a gradual gain in smooth depth. It is very marked faithfully by its place over the vintage, which is rare in 2016 at this stage. The spark is good here. It has a very fine close on herbs, tannins of rocks. It is serene, oily, true. There are Burgundian smoky notes on the palate, oily richness with silk texture and a true southern make-up within. From 2022. 2039-41 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(large barrel) medium red robe. Elderflower, green olives, blackberry airs mix on the nose, with notes of caramel. It has a perfumed muskiness. The palate starts in succulent fashion, holds gummy gras, bears red fruits with charge in the tannins, vibrancy from them. Its raspberry and mulberry fruit is fluid, and picks up sweet spices. There is a hum of inner power that is just about masked, enveloped. There is a touch of kirsch on the close. It is a plumptious wine on the limit of its degree, just OK on that front. 15°. From 2020. 2032-35 Sept 2016

2014

very clear red robe. Has an overtly floral, perfumed aroma that possesses a winsome nature, takes an airborne path, gives a neat infill of raspberry, pockets of spice. The palate links to the nose via its clear, pure red fruit and perfume, with tang and salt tannins in a grippy, tight close. It is loose limbed wine, with a light savoury nature, some soaked red cherries or griottes. It produces peppery late moments, and there is a spot of sweetness in the bonny persistence of its red fruit. Decant this Burgundian style wine. 14.5°. 35,000 b. 40% whole bunch. 90% Gren, 10% Mourv. Bottled June 2016. From 2019. 2029-32 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ****(*) (large barrel, bottling June 2016) fine red robe. Has a sultry, perfumed nose, gives an overt aroma of raspberry with flowers, sweet spice, cloves: it is pretty captivating. The palate is suave, textured, presents a flow of red berry/raspberry fruit with a build-up of depth, tar, tannin right on the finish. A scented, comely wine with latent strength. It represents the galet stones, herbs, rocks here, the dust as it ends, well. It is running well now. 15°. 35,000 b. From 2018-19. 2032-34 This is good VALUE: GB £115/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2013

three-quarter depth red colour. Blackberry features in a rather generous early aroma, one of refined coulis fruits – it is very young and primary just now, a bouquet that is calm and very good. The palate bears stylish red fruit with close-knit tannins tucked in. The flavour accentuates raspberry, along with a note of rosemary and laurel. The fruit is pure here, comes in fine droplets. Has an effortless style, and will take its time. From spring 2018. 2030-32  Feb 2015 Previously Oct 2014 ***(*) (large barrel) (large barrel) purple robe that is a touch light at the rim. There is a jammy, red berry nuance on the nose. The palate displays firm, chewy extract. Fruit is certainly present, but is in check. Has a robust structure with definite grip on the finish. Possibly old vine depth contributing? This looks to have ageing potential. From 2017. 2027-29 JL GB Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Oct 2014

2012 ()

fine red colour. The nose is subdued, blackberry leaf, plums, spice present. The palate is rather strict, and is also in transition, with red berry, cherry fruit, live wire tannin bringing late crunch  It’s rather like an altitude Gigondas! It’s not especially fat, is an always on the move wine. There is licorice tang on the aftertaste. 14.5°. 2028-30 Sept 2017 Previously Nov 2013 ****(*) (large barrel) rather dark red; the bouquet holds a thorough red fruit aroma that comes in a mature style with date airs, spicing, abundant herbs, a lot of garrigue here. The bouquet has a raspberry core, and is bright. The palate expresses a savoury taste from within; it is quite naturally in a raw state now, picks up tar and assertively dark tannins as it goes along. A spicy Châteauneuf, an unbridled one that runs with some cavalier intent. The shape at the end is rectangular. This is more insistent than the 2011. The finish involves pine touches, licorice cut, with a final clack. “A replaced new large barrel came in this year - hence that oaking comes across,” D Brunier. From 2017. I marginally prefer it to the 2011 Pied Long. 2030-32 Nov 2013

2011

healthy, full red robe. The nose has a raspberry air with appealing scent attached, some iris and sweet spicing, along with black olives, pine – this is a well southern bouquet, the raspberry fruit prominent. Variety and musky intrigue float around here. The palate is supple, nicely full, already showing well on the attack, before the curtain comes down as it darkens and thickens, showing a jam, liqueur concentration on the finish. This flirts with a high degree in its manner, is near 15°. The finale is overtly peppered via Christmas box spices. 14.5°. Bottled July 2013. 2027-29  €36 at the cellars. Nov 2013