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The Wines

0-60% Clairette blanche, 40-100% Grenache blanc from sandy stony soils, some clay-limestone, cool decantation after pressing at 12°C, 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 8-10 months, lees stirred, malo completed, “drink as aperitif, or with chicken & wild mushrooms, goat cheese, Roquefort blue cheese”

2018 ()

clear yellow robe. The bouquet strolls out on an apricot, ripe peach aroma, fennel and toasting in the background. The palate bears easy gras richness, is supple and gains extra depth as it goes, the finish well rounded, with a glint of spearmint clarity and oaking there. It’s not yet found its togetherness, so wait until spring 2020, hoping for a cold winter in between. 14°. 2030-32 Oct 2019

2017

yellow robe; the bouquet hums quietly, isn’t really open, has the discretion of the two prime local varieties. There’s a hint of greengage, white plum, aniseed de Marseille, tilleul or linden infused tea. It has a steady depth. The palate is firm on the attack, well-knit, carries good body with a fresh tenor, a note of saltiness, towards the finish. It’s well made, based on local, refined depth. It has the body for white meats, veal. It’s a pity to drink it now, so decant it if you must. Otherwise, leave until 2021. It may develop exotic fruit associations. 14°. 2031-33 Oct 2019

2016 ()

(cask) fine yellow robe. The bouquet has good lift, freedom, a tangerine, ginger air with oak attached, the oak toasting prominent for now. The palate starts on a roll of richness, the flavour on banana and pear: as such, it is still in thrall to its fermentation, so this is one to leave until spring 2019. The aftertaste collects some aniseed de Marseille, a fine thread of freshness. It’s a table wine, and will be more truly local around 2021. 2026-28 Oct 2017

2015

yellow robe. Licorice, kiwi fruit, green olives show on the nose, with some oaking. The palate is threaded with oak, and a result has a squeezy gras presence, a white fruit jam style. The finish is on honey, a little sweetness, toffee. I find the oak coats its texture a little too much. Table wine, with sauced dishes OK. 14.5°. €30 at the cellars. 2021-22 Sept 2016

2005

yellow glints in the robe. An oaked first effect on the nose, though there is quite a rich aroma within, with ripe content. The palate shows up the rich matter, and the oak is better integrated here. Coconut, guava flavour late on. Finish is a bit dry from the oak; there is indeed a little bit of sherry on the aftertaste. Drink with fish in a butter sauce.  Esp late 2008 on for calmer oak. 2013-15  Nov 2006

2004

nice ripe yellow robe. The nose is firm, has an aroma of cooked peach, butter, honeysuckle. This is agreeable, tasty, rounded; it starts on a compote of white fruits flavour, moves into cooked orange and toasting from its oak. The nose is fragrant, the palate deeper, and well modelled. It is good now, drink with sauced dishes. The aftertaste is still on oak, but has gras around it. 14.5°. 2019-20  Oct 2013