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The Wines

80-90% Roussanne (1976 from “Les Anglaises”, sandy soil on Cabrières), 5-10% Grenache blanc, 5-20% Clairette, 5% Picpoul, decanted at 5°C, steel vat fermented at 15-16°C, raised 5 months, malo can be blocked, 4,000-4,200 b

2016

yellow robe; the nose is subdued, buttery, gives a touch of crème patisserie, apricot, light vanilla, grapiness. It can open with more time. This drinks easily, holds soft gras richness, white fruits with a little tang on the finish. It’s rather functional, workmanlike, has no real high points. It’s dumb, and may be more on the go if you revert in mid-2019 or 2020. There is nuttiness in the flavour. It’s a bit short. 2025-27 Jan 2018

2013 ()

bright yellow; lime, sherbet lemon aroma, a mild air of flan to deepen it, a little note of butter. This is a straightforward start. The palate holds a barley sugar, baked tart flavour, its gras prominent and demanding food be drunk with it, Asiatic cuisine, for example. It has weight and a latent power, and is just ahead of being heavy. The second half is weighty notably, comes with some tannic notes, and the fruit is on the back foot as it ends. Content over clear fruit here. The aftertaste is honeyed. Day 3: this has a full style, is a little heavy, could have more lift. 14°. 2019-20  Jan 2015

2012 ()

yellow robe. Lemon, white flowers and peach gather on the bouquet – it is joli, and has a floating appeal, some salted moments. The palate offers fine white fruits with again a floral leaning; it is precise and attractive, and comes alive with a dish of octopus. Bottled Feb 2013. 2,400 b. 2020-21  Oct 2015

2011

mild yellow, legs down the glass. Has a grapefruit, tangy lemon air, with backing to help its depth. There is a becoming drift of salt, along with light airs of flowers and butter. The palate has an elegant, poised heart, no doubt due to the presence of the Roussanne. The texture is suave, and its length interesting, well sustained. This is more expressive than most 2011s, and has better balance. Hence it can be drunk with fine fish such as sole, turbot, steamed Japanese dishes. Very solid quality, with, for once, the Roussanne not harvested when nearly overripe. 13.5°. Less Clairette this year – 5%, with 10% GB, 5% Picpoul and 80% R. Bottled April 2012, VALUE at €21, 3,000 b. 2020-21  Dec 2012

2010 ()

pale yellow. Reserved nose – light spice, hazelnut. Measured white fruits flavour, comes with late moments of acidity, is not really in the zone now, has been bottled just five days. There are pockets of gras in it. Leave until late 2011. To 2018. March 2011

2007 ()

pale yellow; has a reserved nose – there are hints of apricot and peach skin, acacia flowers and a little pear. This is a nicely proportioned, very clean wine on the palate – it has light almond then honeycomb in the centre taste. The length is discreet, the wine has some potential. Vanilla pod, pear on the finish, where it ends clearly. A confidently made wine. 13.5°. “This vintage is like my 2004 white,” Vincent Durieu. €16. 2014-15. June 2008