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The Wines

45-60% Clairette, 30-50% Grenache blanc, 0-10% Roussanne, 0-8% Bourboulenc from sandy, galet stone soils, 50-80% steel vat, 10-30% new, 10-40% 1-2 year 400-litre & 600-litre oak cask fermented, raised 10% new, 90% 1-2 year 400-litre & 600-litre oak casks 8-10 months (up from 4-6 months since late 2010s), 2,000-3,000 b


full yellow with old gold tints; the nose has a sweet, caramel lead aroma, brioche bread, fougasse, aniseed. It’s a doughty, full start. The palate is rich, sustained, has good local depth, and enough spine to pursue a successful evolution. There’s a hint of power on the close. It flirts nicely with oxidation, and will mislead some “experts”. It has great, sustained length, and is very much a table wine, with sauced dishes, white meats, full flavoured fish on the menu. Decanting will help, since it’s sealed tight for now. There is a Clairette sign-off, a vinous tone of aniseed. 14°. 2032-34 Oct 2019

2017 ()

pear-tinted robe; the bouquet has a vast aroma of toffee, Normandy butter, banana, candy, is fat. It’s a one-off. The palate has an unctuous nature, a strong taste of toffee, with rolling grapey content that picks up tang-bitter towards a finish that backs off – that is a distraction. There is a wholesome presence before the finish, and this will be suited to Asiatic cuisine, dishes with fennel, herbes de Provence. 14°. 2,000 b. 45% Gren bl, 45% Clair, 5% Bourb, 5% Rouss. Bottled Aug 2018. €20. 2027-28 Oct 2018


pale yellow, signs of spritz. This has a firm aroma led by dried fruits, with a nutty, cooked lemon, vanilla pod, orange zest combination. The palate is lined with carbonic gas (as shown in the robe), a flavour of stark peach stone; it has a near Marsanne tang-bitter presence on the second half. It is tight, requires la table. It’s up to poultry, full flavoured fish, is a wine with spine, structure and freshness. It could be longer and have more give in its taut close. Allow to breathe or decant; time may aid it. 14°. Try from late-2018. 2023-25 Nov 2017


yellow robe. Spring flowers feature in a charming nose, an attractive peach jam aroma with them. The palate is also serene, holds dainty white fruits, pear-nectarine mixed together. It gives a steady run to a more knit, grainy finish. Bonny wine, a nice aperitif drink. Its juice is good and fine. 14°. “You can drink this with fish, seafood, chocolate cake,” Aline Giuliani. 50% Gren bl, 50% Clairette. 3,000 b. 2019-20  Oct 2015


pale yellow. Toast, fine toast and notably pear aroma; the nose has a supple core, shows a local note of fennel. The palate mixes vanilla, white plum, is on its oak raising right now. The fruit within is fine. The sign-off combines lime, infused tea such as camomile. A light version of white Châteauneuf, a seeker of elegance. Very clear, just a bit light. From mid-2013. 14.5°. Bottled April 2012, €17, 48% GB, 48% Cl, 4% B this year. 2019-20  Dec 2012