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The Wines

100% Roussanne (grafted on to 1960s Grenache blanc stock around 1986-89), from clay-limestone soils, hand harvested, since 2004 fermented, raised 50% new, 50% 1-year 228-litre oak casks 10 months, before then 100% new oak, first wine 1990, organic wine, 4-5,000 b

2019

firm yellow robe; the bouquet has a smoky presence, veers towards Riesling petrol, has a box plant freshness at its centre. It’s interesting, varied. The palate starts with a silken, careful roll of white fruited content, holds its line well, and builds into a lip smacking finish, oak there. This is a sturdy but elegant Châteauneuf, one with little intricacies, for a large glass and la table. I like its potential, a gradual unfurling likely, so take your time. 14.5°. 2028-30 Nov 2020

2018

full yellow robe; airs of orange, banana, toasting feature in a wide dimension bouquet, one with inner charge. The oak gives a note of varnish. The palate is a rolling affair, filled with gourmandise, mixed white fruits with a touch of citrus crispness, spearmint, on the grainy close. It’s not yet in shape, so leave until mid-2020. It will be on top form, and more complex, around 2024-26 – if you wait until then, it will become a **** wine. 14°. 4,000 b. 100% Rouss. Bottled Aug 2019. €38.80. 2030-32 Oct 2019

2017 ()

pale yellow; ripe fruit that has a “high” aspect, crushed peach airs show on the nose, which is smoky, grapey, nutty, has a hint of white tobacco. This attacks on fleshy content, a mix of peach and nectarine fruit, white plum also. It settles on the finish with some grip, control. It’s not yet really out, but carries sound content for la table. 14°. GB £320 per 12 b i/bond H2Vin quintessentially@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 073 6655  2029-31 Nov 2018

2015

yellow robe. The nose is broad, but comes also with refined depth, aniseed, plum, honey. It has inner strength, and is still very sealed, close-knit. The palate presents refined gras richness and aromatic, floral notes, is soft all through. There is grip on the finish, and a flourish of nerve on the close, helpful freshness-acidity there. This is refined, more so than some past years. 2025-27 Nov 2016 GB £296 12 b in bond H2Vin www.h2vin.co.uk info@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 478 7376

2014 ()

quite a rich yellow robe. The nose gives an immediate burst of oak, with a certain clarity about it. There is a peach and tobacco presence within. The palate offers a pretty elegant gras richness, with pockets of oak on an extended, bright finish. This can move into shape, and fuse its oak. 14°. Bottled July 2015. 4,000 b. Try from mid-2017. There is enough freshness for it to do well until 2024-27. £288 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk  Oct 2015

2013

pale colour. Dried stone fruits, apricots air with nutty, also licorice, aspects: the bouquet is a bit plain, not arresting. The palate is subdued; it holds low-key fruit with oak/toast and honey associates. The length is fair. This lacks expression, and certainly hasn’t taken off. Try it as a more mature wine, ie around 2018-19. Decant it, too. 14°. £278 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2023-25  Nov 2014

2012 ()

yellow colour; has a warm, embracing air of white fruits, apricot, light cooked lemon, some vanilla. The palate gives a rolled up ball of white fruit – this isn’t open, doesn’t unfurl, shows oak here and there. It is a little long on cellar work. There are saline late moments. This is intricate, and more light of touch than the overtly solar years such as 2009. From late 2014. Decant it. 14°. £275 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2020-22  Nov 2013

2011

steady yellow robe. Pineapple-banana airs, cooked pear, orange marmalade, oak and ripe fruit – suggests Roussanne here (tasted blind). This bouquet comes on a pretty big scale, is modern. The palate resembles the nose – it is an oaked production, with fat, later harvested fruit in it, demands la table for its drinking. An obvious wine that lacks the buzz of mystery and lateral thinking. Suited to sauced dishes, veal included. Could be Grand Veneur. It ends on a note of tangerine. I don’t pick up too much vineyard here. Best around 2016 when it could be ***(*), throwing off cellar shackles. 14°. 2021-23  Dec 2012

2010

steady yellow robe. There is a flan-like richness on the nose, which is  a weighty but lifted affair, has a bonny covering of violets. The palate starts on an elegant richness, isn’t yet fully open, has the texture of a ripe, southern wine. Good length and balance here. It finishes clearly, with a little glow. The flavour centres on cooked lime and roasted nuts. 14°. 2027-29  Oct 2015 Previously Dec 2011 **** shiny yellow, legs down the robe. Exotic fruits air here – guava, banana and also quince jelly, a good and mixed bouquet. The palate combines gras richness and oaking deftly. The length is good, the acidity clear and attractive. The fruit is fine, has a flavour of nectarine and good peach fruit. Very good with a dish of scallops and mussels. It can run on over time. 14°. 2023-25  Dec 2012  Previously Dec 2011 *** mild yellow; has a wide, outward-facing nose, offers a spiced, infused herbal tea air, also flan, while its oak spices it up. has a thrusting palate, marches out assertively. The oak gives it a good talking to, rules the roost, and there is a not of vanilla pod from that. Does contain a little gras richness. I find it got up in the cellar. It is closed in by its oak. Less oak an option, or raise it longer with more vat involved. From 2015-16 – severe before then. Marked on potential over time. 14.5°. 2024-26 Dec 2011

2008

some yellow, green tints. Oak, nut, pineapple and toast nose – classic formula. Light honey, glazed fruits, pear flavours, ends on oak as anticipated. It is stuck together by its oak, lacks real depth of matter. 2015-16 Nov 2009

2006 ()

yellow robe; ripe fruit, barley sugar aroma, as if there is crème brûlée in it, also vanilla and spice. Has a rich, traditional blend of grapes, with full appeal. It ends with some clarity, showing oak and honey. It is rich enough for its oak. Beau wine, with good structure. 2019-20 Jan 2008

2005 ()

some yellow in the robe; baked fruit, apple and spice aroma. Palate holds an alert texture, there is good core flavour and balance. Is rather hidden now, but length and grip are good. Let down by some late acidity and a rather burnt finish, in the vein of this vintage for the whites. 2012-14 Nov 2006

2004 ()

deep yellow, gold tints. The bouquet isn’t especially open, gives a toasted air, apricot jam. The palate holds a fine acidity; this has a rather serene debut, offers spiced white fruits, then oak pushes through on the aftertaste, leaving a singed note, like a lighted match, on the exit. Too much cellar work to be convincing. More fruit, less oak, por favor. To 2020 Oct 2013 Previously Nov 2009 **(*) still full yellow; honey, lime marmalade aroma that bears vanilla and toast as well – it is now at a good, steady moment. The wine is infusing its oak now on the palate, though it is a bit stiff. It does contain gras richness, which is gradually unfurling. The fat of the Roussanne holds it together. The oak needs leaving until mid-2011 or so. Aniseed notes on the aftertaste. 2018-19  Nov 2009  Previously Nov 2006 *(*) full, quite ripe bouquet that shows baked apple in the aroma, and is a bit oxidative. There is a ripe fruit start to the palate, a fleshy nature to this, with a brown sugar effect in the taste, a sort of crème brulée. Is rather short and burnt on the finish. On this showing, drink before 2009, unless it is going to be a “rise from the ashes” Roussanne wine – something that can happen. If that is the case, revert in late 2008. 2009-14 Nov 2006 Previously Dec 2005 **(*) the bouquet gives an oak hit, but there is a discreet underlay of finesse, and fruit aromas such as lime and greengage. The oak imprint on the palate is very strong now – “oak-toast for breakfast, M'Lud?” (manservant stoops in so saying). There is a fine core in this: I suspect Clairette tasting it blind, but discover it is Roussanne – well, it certainly is not Grenache blanc! There is some sweetness in the interior, and it is sappy towards the finish before the oak rides back into view. Esp 2008 on. 2016-17 Dec 2005

2000 ()

very yellow colour; there is a rich core to the nose – shows white fruit, spice and butter, also light honey. There is a fennel flavour in a subdued palate, that comes in a mature style. Oak and vanilla are naturally present in a fine manner. It is too oaky for me, I have to confess. This was 100% new oak handled. Nov 2006