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The Wines

80% Grenache from clay with limestone soils on Palestor (N), Cabrières (N), Bois Dauphin (N) av age 60 years), 20% Mourvèdre, Clairette, various, av age of whole wine 40 years, whole bunch 4 week concrete vat vinification, pumping overs, aged 5-15 year 228-litre oak casks 10-12 months, unfined, unfiltered, 5-10,000 b

2016

dark red robe. Has an intense, meat stock, grilling and mulled fruits aroma, along with black raisin; it’s a bold and copious start. The palate continues the bold theme, bears coated content with a through heart, prolonged density. This is delicious but also a little menacing in a good way, will wake up the drowsy. It’s full of raw charge, which I like. The Mourvèdre stamps its imprint here, gives it some animal strength. 14.5°. From 2020, decanting advised. Already bottled, which is surprising. 14.5°. 10,000 b. 2032-35 Oct 2017

2014

red Grenache robe; there are smoky, baked notes on the nose, a live red berry fruit. The palate attacks on a scented red fruit, develops a gummy depth of red jam with a smoky top note. Front of mouth acidity appears on the finish. It is just a bit in the cellar rather than the vineyard – it has been worked on more than most. 14.5°. Bottled already. From 2018. 2027-28  Oct 2015 

2013

(casks) medium colour. Meaty, darkly fruited nose, that also gives licorice and balsamic notes. The palate is meaty, powerful and solid, the tannins firm and tight. This sells itself on power rather than finesse. It is a little tough on the finish (perhaps some oak). Will need time to come round. 14.5°. Harvested 26 September. 7,000 b. From 2017. 2024-25 JL Oct 2014

 

2011

dark red. Crunchy black fruit, wide aroma – this has a Bovril, meat and yeast extract, beef stock depth, with crisper notes of black raisin and resin notes. The palate holds assertive, peppery black fruit with oaking here and there. There is pretty fluid fruit inside, and it stiffens as it ends. It will shape up in time. The aftertaste glows with a hum of power, and the finish shows tarry oak. From 2015. 14.5°. 2024-26  Dec 2012

2010 ()

shiny, three-quarter depth red. Has a strong varnish-pine first air, some reduction in it. There are raw, bosky notes in this, and I am not sure it was ready for its bottling. There is a singed side to the fruit, with stiff tannin attached. The fruit finishes on the back foot. This lacks breadth and roundness, is low on appeal. From late 2012. 14.5°. €18.50 at the domaine. Bottled Sept 2011. 2017-18 Dec 2011

2009

bottled already: full red; rather biscuity outer air, but the nose is wide and filled, reflects sizzling bacon, pork. The palate has vibrant, powerful, spiced, peppery red fruit. The maker's foot is on the pedal here – the risk is of it being Over the Top (OTT) - heady, spirity eau de vie, and a detachment of its alcohol. Its dry finish is demanding for now. A wine from parched lands, and furthermore, the maker has not backed off in its making. 14.5°. From 2012. 2017-18 Oct 2010

2006

(casks) raspberry colour; the aroma is also raspberry or simmered red berries with a little sweet coating, and is fragrant on its late stages. The palate carries supple stone fruits and berries in a red jam manner. Is mild in flavour, and tapers a bit towards the finish – does not really establish a firm footing. There is some white pepper on the aftertaste. Lacks real follow-through. From late 2008. 2016-17 Nov 2007

2005 ()

quite a full robe; chocolate, oak aromas, with a peppery top note, some earthiness and red jam – this bouquet is quite potent. Full, broad, berried flavour with a minted, round end, contains latent power. OK now, drink from 2008 for more diversity. There is bite, edge on the palate. 2017-19 14.5° on label. Nov 2006