Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

85-95% Grenache (half 1920s, half mid-1960s), 5-15% Mourvèdre (mid-1960s), 0-5% Syrah (late 1980s) from galet stone covered soils on Grandes Serres (S-W), Bois de la Ville (S-W), destemmed, pre-fermentation crop cooling 2-3 days at 15°C, 4-6 week concrete vat vinification at up to 28°C, min of 2 part vat emptying/refillings daily, cap punching, some pumping overs, aged 50-67% 1-2-3 year old 228 & 600-litre oak casks, 33-50% concrete vat 12-18 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2001, 2,000-5,300 b

2016

(casks/vat, bottling March 2018) has a red robe with a little mottling. The nose sits back, is reserved, has a low-key cooked plum fruit aroma thanks to the Grenache, comes with some smokiness. The palate is tight, bears compact black fruited content with a firm couch of tannins in place, the aftertaste on dark chocolate, essence of prune fruit. These tannins are still pesky, and require leaving until 2021-22. It’s a sturdy wine whose character will emerge gradually. 16°. 5,300 b. 85% Gren, 15% Mourv. €37. 2035-38 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(casks/vat) bright and pretty dark red robe. The nose is reserved, gives a murmur of spice, clove, with an inset of raspberry fruit, blackberry. It’s only shuffling on stage for now. The palate is cool, bears crisp, still compressed red fruit with energy, and it’s running as it hits the line. There is inkiness in its red fruit, and a note of baking. There is grainy tannin on the close. It glows with inner strength on the finish, which places demands. 16°. Leave until 2020. 2030-32 Sept 2016

2012

quite a full red robe; broad, outdoors air of herbs, hickory smoke with stewed red fruits, vanilla – the fruit features plum, overripe strawberry. This bouquet isn’t very obvious. The palate centre is concentrated, with live acidity around it. Red berry, Grenache lies at its core, flanked by mineral, chiselled tannins. Uncertain cohesion and brittle fruit: this is OK but not arresting as it stands today, before bottling and tidying. From mid-2016. 16°, note. 95% Gren, 5% Mourv, 33% vat, 4,500 b. 2025-26  Nov 2013

2009

(cask/vat) three-quarter depth red; mulberry, loganberry, blackberry airs, plenty to be amused by, has a liqueur style. Prominent plum fruit with a juicy core on the palate, which straightens out after half way, then runs with pepper, tangy touches and flinty tannins. There is a glow of heat on the aftertaste, with the late moments tasty. A pushy, forward wine. From mid-2013. 2023-24 Oct 2010

2008 No Rating

2,000 b

2007 ()

steady, full red; good, dark bouquet that hangs around, has depth, mystery, young and promising, comes along with bacon, smoke, lots of promise of variety to come. Black berry fruit debut, with oak woven into it; it lengthens rather thanks to its oak for now. Has a rich heart, contains fine black fruit. From mid-2011 – allow the oak to absorb on the second half. “I think this is a mix of modern and traditional as a style. I would decant it.” Jean-Marie Royer. 4,500 b this year. 2021-23 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 **** bright robe – purple, red; soft, red fruits aroma – raspberry that is sweet and pretty, has a sexy appeal, a come hither in the eyes. There is agreeable fruit bounty here – this is tasty, very Grenache-inspired, with STGT leanings. The length is good, and there is a likeable surround of tannin and, then fibre at the end. Correct length, not a really long-term wine, but lots of what the French call “buvabilité”. 2018-19 Nov 2008

2005 ()

mild red colour; suave, red berry nose with no great nuances as yet. Softly woven red fruits come in a typical Grenache soft and rounded style. Continues nicely, is easy to drink. Tightens just before the finish, correctly so. From late 2008. Drink towards 2014 for best results. 2018-20 Nov 2006

2004

pale red core to the robe, with the top rim a little transparent. The nose reveals blackberry, with baked, prune and leather aromas – it runs with some of the vintage reserve, is peppery, and a shade upright. There are herbals airs, too. There is a plum centre to the taste, accompanied by an outer lining of pebbly tannin. This is on the dry side, but there is some content to allow it to come through and evolve over time. The flavour is mature in style, not frisky – so it shows winter fruit cake with a dry infusion of berry jam and some cinnamon. The air binds the wine, and squeezes out some roundness. Rather unusual. 14.5°. 2017-18 Sept 2008 Previously Oct 2006 No Rating stalky, yeasty stamp on the bouquet – this comes in front of any fruit, has a coffee-tar tang, too. Raisin taste on the start, rather than any crisp fruit – dries early, too. Alcohol here, without good fruit and fat content. Oct 2006