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The Wines

60% Grenache (1940s), 40% Syrah (2002), from sandy soils on Pignan (N-E), Les Cassanets (N-E), “the first plot we pick”, destemmed, crushed, 3 week concrete vat vinification (down from 4-6 weeks into mid-2010s) at 26-28°C, twice daily pumping overs, one part vat emptying/refilling a week, cap punching, aged concrete vat 14 months (until mid-2010s aged large 50-60 hl barrel 6-8 months), fined, filtered, 2-5,000 b

2017

deep, dark red; has a broad, enveloping bouquet, has an inner surge of dark fruits, prune, crushed berries. The palate is on the charge; I can feel the spirit running through it, and it renders the flavour towards eau de vie, kirsch elements. The finish is spiced, butty, tarry, with power. Not a free drinking wine, only a sip here and there, shows the vintage excess. 15.5°. 5,000 b. 60% Gren, 40% Syr. €19. Decant it. From mid-2020. 2036-38 Oct 2018

2016

(vat) quite a full red robe. The nose has a soaked cherries intensity, a liqueur style approach, the fruit clear. There’s a note of cherry stone, almost kirsch. The palate is streamlined, has fibre and tenacious thread along its spinal column. The Grenache and Syrah haven’t yet found their right working partnership. The finish is clear, has inner strength, a sense of eau de vie without the glow. There is some lees influence from this vat sample, but all will be well. 14.5°. 5,000 b. 60% Gren, 40% Syr. €18. From 2021. 2035-37 Oct 2017

2013 ()

(barrel) fairly dark purple hue. Has a meaty, plummy nose with a slightly baked, cooked note in the background.The palate seems rather forced, with the extraction pushed. It is chewy and hard on the finish, the balance just not there. From 2017. 2025-26 JL Oct 2014

2012

thorough, dark red robe. Oily, plenty of garrigue airs in a bouquet that has a suave, fat red fruit centre, shows a little roasting. The palate is unresolved for now: the attack holds unsteady red fruit, carries herbs, but dries soon, ends on noted pebbly, much dusted tannins. Currently gives an exerted feel. The aftertaste is gummy, a bit on the power and rasp. From late 2016. Bottled July 2013, 2,800 b, €17. 14.5°. 2025-27 Nov 2013

2011

quite dark red; open, pretty easy nose led by blackberry-loganberry, has a baked note underneath, not a convincing second layer, a light air of thyme and tea. The palate holds sweet, simple black fruit; fluid and mild tannins follow. It becomes crunchy towards the finish, where there is licorice. I find its raising an obstacle, not an asset. The exit is charred from the oak. Down the line, rather formulaic. 14.5°. 2022-23  Dec 2012  Previously Feb 2012 *** (barrel) fine, red, very Grenache red; has a soft aroma, typical of the domaine, with herb and plum airs – the bouquet is easy, cosy, shows a ripe raspberry fruit, raspberry jam. The palate fruit starts brightly, and there is good precision, cool lines backed by a nicely oily texture. It takes on grainy tannins at the end, ones which are pine and menthol-scented. Friendly drinking to come, an unpretentious wine. From spring 2014. 14.6°. “The small dry point on the finish for now is typical of the terroir, but has now disappeared in the 2009 and 2010,” Julien Masquin. 2021-23 Feb 2012

2010 ()

nice, full dark plum robe; toffee, treacle, dark fruit, date airs – the bouquet has a sound, full harmony and comes with smoky, mineral touches, fat Grenache plum fruit. The palate delivers prune and attractive, ripe tannins; it has drive – the 2010 freshness is here, is punchy, upright, but has good cut, and ends with momentum. The tannins on the finish are searching, so allow them two years to settle. The aftertaste combines prune and violet. This is a soft approach wine. 15°. 2023-25 Feb 2012

2009 ()

small evolution in its plum robe; has a smoky-pine front air, a supple inlay behind, with licorice. Both variety and local airs can develop. The palate sets off with appeal – it is plump and shows a good ball of gras richness, sweet cooked red fruits. It is evolving already, showing secondary notes that have appeared on stage early. It could stabilise around those, and hold this form for a while. 15.5°. 2021-22 Feb 2012