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The Wines

20-60% Grenache blanc, 5-20% Roussanne, 10-25% Picpoul blanc, 10-15% Picardan, 5-20% Clairette blanche, 5-10% Bourboulenc from Bois de la Ville (1990), Grenache blanc & Roussanne vat co-fermented at 17°-18°C to bring depth, strength, Bourboulenc & Picardan vat co-fermented at 17°-18°C to bring freshness, Picpoul blanc & Clairette blanche co-fermented at 17°-18°C to bring aromatics, Picpoul grapefruit, the first impression on opening, Clairette honeysuckle that is the second impression, three vats blended in January after harvest (until mid-2010s 75-80% steel vat fermented at 15-17°C, 20-25% new oak cask fermented and aged 6-7 months), total raising 5-6 months, malo blocked, “drink with fresh salmon, fish, shellfish, or as aperitif”, organic wine, 2,200-2,500 b

2019

fine yellow robe; has a gentle, attractive peach aroma, carries Châteauneuf refinement, with a discreet floral note, an underlay of nut paste. The palate starts with peppy, Carbonic gas inspired small white fruits with a perlant feel from the gas, then more suave and rich notes of the South come forward. This is most appealing, is bien precise and holds dandy detail, with deft salt touches towards the finish. There is harmony in the glass – it’s very beau to drink as it is, no waiting, is w.o.w. wine – call for more! 13.5°. 60% Gren bl, 5% Rouss, 10% Clairette, 10% Picpoul bl, 10% Picardan, 5% Bourb. Bottled 3 Feb 2020. 2025-26 April 2020

2018

Bottle 1: yellow robe, a little opaque. badly corked. Bottle 2: yellow robe with a lean towards pear skin. The bouquet has local colour, with tilleul (linden), cooked pear present. It’s a weighty opening. The palate works via its oily texture, is a true Vin du Sud, carries what seems like Clairette richness, a vinous quality that sustains well. It finishes on that note, engages well for la table, with plum and honeysuckle drifts. It has character. 13.5°. 2,200 b. 50% Gren bl, 15% Rouss, 10% Clairette, 10% Picpoul bl, 10% Picardan, 5% Bourb. Bottled March 2019. €26. 2031-33 Oct 2019

2017 ()

thick yellow colour, rich aspect. Jelly fruit, ripe airs, a sweet peach aroma on the nose, a sideline of gunflint that allows it to breathe. The palate is also rich, with a sturdy, static middle, shows the profound nature of the vintage at its centre. It’s for drinking now, has the richness that normally takes time to develop for dishes such as scrambled eggs with black truffles. The finish is firm. 13.5°. 2,500 b. 35% Gren bl, 25% Picpoul blanc, 20% Rouss, 10% Picardan, 5% Bourb, 5% Clair. €25. Bottled March 2018. 2025-27 Oct 2018

2016

rich yellow colour. Dried fruits such as apricot appear in a tight, rounded, beeswax style set of aromas. It’s more grounded than airborne, though there’s a little buzz of freshness. The palate links closely to the bouquet, presents nutty flavours with some caramel, and thick juice. This is a genuine southern white with good heart, and a pleasing emergence of freshness as it finishes. The Bourboulenc has played a good role, and it is best drunk à table. It is wholesome, beau, genuine, and good with white meats, veal-pork, sauced dishes. The six different varieties give it a discreet complexity, a nice array of different prompts. 13.5°. 2021-22 Sept 2017

2014 ()

yellow robe. There is a crisp top note to the nose, an underlay of quince, nectarine fruit, fair substance. The palate holds some sweet-noted gras, a richer than most dousing this year, but there is also some acidity from its carbonic gas. It holds agreeable fat and will go well with roast pork and bay leaves, Poulet or chicken de Bresse with a morilles wild mushroom sauce. It is a genuine white Châteauneuf. 13.5°.  2,300 b. €23. 2024-26  Oct 2015 

2012 ()

flint pale colour. Tangerine-mandarin, exotic fruits first air, a little candy, bubble gum, wee acetate; overall, it is pretty fresh. The palate is close-knit, has bone, a pear fruit fused through it, ends roundly. Drink with foods over aperitif. Has a nutty, rather flan flavour at its heart. It is starting to show well now, picks up pineapple, papaya at the end. 13°. Targets elegance, does that. €19. 2020-21  Oct 2013

2009

mild, safe yellow colour. Cooked pear, honey, brief notes of pineapple feature in an open bouquet that has good and traditional Châteauneuf weight. I also detect honeysuckle and butter, and rate this a classy nose. The palate holds well-seasoned fruit, has a pretty texture and is made to evolve. It revolves around dried fruits, apricots and is a good example of STGT Châteauneuf blanc. The balance is good, the acidity just OK. Great with dishes such as mushroom pasta. The palate is fine, the end good and clear, with spice touches on the aftertaste. Is €35, though . . 2020-22 Dec 2011

2008

steady yellow; tight, waxy nose, citrus airs and a hint of acetate, also light honey: a fresh bouquet. The palate holds well-mixed gras and a spot of freshness, the length is good. Has a fresh, puckery end with a rather metal, iron grip. From spring 2012. 14°. 100% Gren blanc, 1,200 b this year. 2019-20 March 2011

2007 ()

mild yellow colour; subdued nose that implies richness, more from the fat than the fresh school – the fat coming via “high, near overripe” white fruits, the fresh side represented by lime. There is spice on the palate, but is not on an even keel – there is SO2, and a burnt aspect towards the finish. Taut fruit here, a wine that curls up on the end. Retaste. Nov 2008 bottled March 2008