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The Wines

60-66% Grenache from Palestor (N), Bois de Boursan (S), Grand Pierre (N-E), 15-19% Mourvèdre from Les Mascaronns (S), Bois de Boursan (S), Cabrières (N-W), 10-13% Syrah from Le Parc, 4-6% Cinsault from Pierre à Feu (S-W) from sandy, clay-limestone soils, 0-3% Vaccarèse, Clairette blanche, Grenache whole bunches, Syrah destemmed, pre-fermentation at 15°C, 30-day fermentation, maceration, some pumping overs, from 2018 aged cement ovoids 6-7 months, then 87-90% 45 hl large barrel 12 months, Syrah aged 25% new, 75% 1-2-year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, then all 6 months assembled in concrete vat, total raising 24 months from 2018, unfiltered, 12,000 b

2019 ()

1) (56% Gren, 40% Syr, 4% Cins, 50 hl cement ovoid) **** dark robe; blackberry features in a well lined nose which sustains well, has thorough depth, plenty of layers. The palate shows good balance, that’s encouraging, right away. It goes with good continuity, has a fresh finish. There’s bright fruit on the go, and it has stuffing. 26 yrs 2) (65% old Gren, with young Gren, 35% Syr from Pradel) ****(*) notably dark; reduction, but a curved, firmly deep nose. There’s plenty of juice on the palate, which runs well. There’s good style in the tannins. Very promising. 28 yrs 3) (35% Gren, 35% Mourv, 15% Syr, 15 Cins) ****(*) profound dark red; raspberry fruits in a very perky nose, mystery with it. The palate has good style, the attack well fruited, with good pockets of freshness, noticeable tannins, but they’re not too firm, are powdery. 4) (from 0.925 ha on Pradel, early 1980s Grenache, planted 110x100 on 3309 rootstock, bought in 2014, first in this from 2016, whole bunch fermentation) ****(*) dark red; stylish nose, blackberry, is curvy and inviting. There’s classic structure along the palate, with crunch towards the finish. It has good heart, with bright, stylish fruit. There’s a lot of underpinning for the blended wine from it. “It was very tannic at the end of fermentation.” J Barrot. 28 yrs 2045-48 Oct 2019


1) (from 0.925 ha on Pradel, early 1980s Grencahe, planted 110x100 on 3309 rootstock, bought in 2014, first in this from 2016, whole bunch fermentation, this started to referment two weeks ago, mid-Oct 2019, and still has 4 gm of sugar to complete) **** dark red; has a floral, red-fruited aroma. The juicy simplicity of the vintage shows on the palate, so it’s accessible, comes with a low-key gain in tannin on the close. Good balance. 26 yrs 2) (45 hl barrel, 40-60 yr Grenache) **** dark red; has a curvy, raspberry air that is welcoming, refined. The palate is well juiced, with good heart and follow through. It ends firmly, juice still there. There’s aromatic red fruit here, with firm tannins on the close. From 2023. 29 yrs 3) (used 600-litre cask, 100 yr Grenache) ****(*) dark red. Good garrigue fuel on the nose, which shows stems inclusion, smoke, has good poise, very stable depth. The palate holds refined fruit with inner strength, velvet and iron here. The real good close is cendré, ash-like. It’s long. From 2024. 32 yrs. 4) (used 600-litre cask, 40% Mourv, 35% Syr (press wine), 20% Vaccarèse, 5% Cins (press wine) ***(*) quite dark red; blackberry, rolling fruit aroma. This is wine of fibre, with sinew, assertion, take your time. The press wine is less silken than the others, more granular, is a bit chunky. 27 yrs 5) large barrel, (55% Mourv, 45% old Gren) ****(*) dark red. Dense nose, deep, red fruited. Has a good pedigree palate, with scope, freshness, good length. It’s a coherent blend of the two varieties, with cool, persistenty fruit, the Mourv playing it well. 30 yrs 6) (a large barrel but made in 600-litre size, same shape as a foudre, has a thicker border around it, 50% Syr, 50% Cins) ***(*) dark red; The nose is chunky, with firm oaking, varnish, damson/cherry eau de vie. The palate gives liqueur fruit, has power which is only just under control. I prefer more refined Syrah. 25 yrs 2047-49 Oct 2019


dark red; there’s plenty of ripeness on the nose, firm depth of strawberry fruit, with herbs, carries succulence, is very primary. The palate connects well to the nose, serves generous gras on the attack and mid-palate, before tannins that are compact and tight and chalky come through. This is atypical 2017 – it needs 3+ years, will get there. There is slight headiness. It needs to refine and loosen the finish; it’s best to wait a decent time. Bottled Apr 2019. 2044-46 Oct 2019 Previously Nov 2018 **** (barrel/casks, bottling May 2019) good, dark red. Has a clear, nicely pure fruit aroma with sunshine depth, hints of herbs in with the damson plum, cooked plum aroma. The nose is promising. The palate is stylish, holds good, rolling gras richness, is well ripe, with smooth tannins that are tasty, right in the wheel. This has style, some flair, presents joli fruit, is well made. It’s a strong **** wine. From 2021. 2040-42 GB £335 per 12 b i/bond, £360 per 6 mags i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400   Nov 2018

2016 ()

1) (the final blend) ****(*) dark, bright, red robe, purple in it. Black olives, prune, clear blackberry and blueberry fruits assemble on the nose – this shows good variety and potential; there are notions of rosemary. The palate offers cosy gras presented with elegant assurance, has free juicing, spontaneous tannins that are ripe, and add late depth. It wooshes through to a more chalky ending on those fine grain tannins and their crunch, which is prompted in part by the inclusion of the stems: this has a good structure to age. “It’s 45% whole bunch overall this year, a lot of the Grenache, plus Mourvèdre from Cabrières,” Julien Barrot. From 2021. 2042-44 2) (100% Grenache, all whole bunch, 45 hl barrel, from Pied de Baud (early 1980s), Palestor (1910s), Cabrières (1910s) ****(*) red robe. Has a rich nose, is ebullient, smoke and tobacco present, roses and prune fruit. The palate has multiple layers of flavour and fruit, great heart, nicely rich juice; the tannins have a little outer softness, and good firmness within. There’ s tobacco on the aftertaste, with tannic thrust, a dark fullness, late crunch. 24-26 years 3) (Mourvèdre from clay soils on Cabrières (2003), 1 year 600-litre cask, 60% jus de goutte, 40% press wine) ***** very dark colour. Has a classic dark, chunky Mourvèdre nose. The palate is solid, scaled, but comes with freedom, ends with style, real momentum, the finish extraordinary, goes boom. There are aromatic touches as well. 26 years Oct 2017

2015 ()

1) (Syrah from red clay, galet (atypical) soils on Pradel, sugars ended, just devatted now) **** good and dark, notable colour. Has a blackberry fruit air of deep potential, sustained linger. This can be stylish and inviting. The palate is round, rich, holds good, encased tannins, has definite ways to go. This is long and full, is a bright wine with a natural depth. 18 years. 2) (50% Grenache, 50% Mourvèdre, both 2005, from mixed clay, sand on Cabrières) **** extremely dark. Aromtaic dark berry fruit, round and deep nose. Violets and crisp fruit show on the palate. This is good, plucky wine, full of beans: it is wide, and its tannins fit snugly. It holds good, running fruit, and the finish is fresh. 18-20 years. 3) Grenache from Terres Blanches, Cabrières, Palestor, whole bunch, 5 gm of sugar to complete) ****(*) dark robe. Broad, upfront nose. Exuberant fruit comes out off the bat on the palate, with a crunch of tannins connected to the whole bunches at the end. Lively, free running, aromatic after taste. 21 years. 4) (Mourvèdre, 1990, from Les Mascarrons, sugars not yet finished) ****(*) vary dark; has a sturdy nose, several layers of black berry. This is racy, crystalline, expressive; the clarity of the tannins is notable. I like the length, too. 24 years. Oct 2015 GB Justerini & Brooks £320 12 b or £350 6 mags or £150 1 Jereboam or £300 1 Methusalem all i/b www.justerinis.com


(concrete vat, assembled 8 Sept 2015, bottling Apr 2016) dark, full red robe. Pepper-licorice feature in a live, open nose that is full of life, has streamlined black cherry fruit at its heart, and a kind air of flowers such as violets. The palate presents live, pepped up black fruit with salted moments, so it drinks well. There is a small knot of late tannin-tar. This is pacy wine with brio and w.o.w. potential, offering direct, good, coursing fruit . It is 15°, but you wouldn’t know it. It can gain fat as it ages. From mid-2017. “The skins, pips, sugars and tannins all ripened together, which is rare, in 2014. It has expanded since the spring of 2015, has a lot of salinity,” Julien Barrot. 2028-30 GB £260 12/b in bond or £28.46. Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

dark red robe. The nose is full, gives airs of smoky bacon, a pile of raspberry and dark berry fruit in the picture, is rather plump in that way. There is a backdrop of blackberry, licorice, cocoa. The palate travels directly with clear-cut black fruit and a rocky tannin after half way. It is still very young, a touch clipped. It finishes solidly, clearly. The exit is knuckled, grainy. This swings along, but needs to expand the finale, has content for the future. “It has very belle acidity, tension, though the 2014 tannins are more silken,” Julien Barrot. 15°. Bottled June 2015. 2033-36 GB £270 12/b in bond or £29.46. Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015 Previously (barrel/cask) *** medium, purple-red colour, is light at the rim. Meaty, plummy, red fruited nose with just a hint of oak. The palate is sweet and full on the attack, the oak adding extra sucrosity. The tannins are firm but a little drying (from the oak) on the finish. The oak needs to settle, otherwise this is correct. From 2017. 15°. 2024-25  JL Oct 2014


the robe is still a dark red. The aroma is deep with a roast beef, thick inset of mulberry – this is a solid bouquet with plenty to give. There are good, crunchy goings-on here: black berry, prune in the flavour, sparky tannins, good ripeness on them, too. The nose and palate link well. Salt moments, coffee show late on. Beau vin – it is STGT in a modern take, has good soul and life. From mid-2017. 2031-33  Oct 2015 Previously Nov 2013 ** (casks, bottling Sept 2014) dark colour; solid, black raisin, Christmas cake air with notes of caramel and toffee – where is the free fruit? The palate has broad, chunky, square start with firm, pushy tannins lining it. This has a vigorous, assertive nature, a stern aspect. The exit is dry. Tasted blind. Hope it is just a poor cask sample. From 2016, say – there is much road to be travelled still. 15°. €35. 2026-29  Nov 2013


shiny, sound red; lightly stewed black fruit aroma with a drift of coffee, tar, menthol. The palate still shows the acidity of youth, has spark in its red liqueur fruit, a strawberry flavour. It is a bit stretched on both nose and palate, rather brittle in structure. It may align. Needs two years. From 2015. 15°. 2027-30  Dec 2012 GB Justerini & Brooks £290 12 b i/b www.justerinis.com

2010 ()

(casks) dark robe; light shimmer of pepper above a fat, filled-up aroma; the nose has a damp soil note as well, a grounding, and will vary over time, with the potential to become complex. The palate is more backward than the nose – there is a steely side to its wrapping, the tannins are fresh and flinty, but within there is good richness, a sunny black fruit. I find Mourvèdre style licorice on the aftertaste (tasted blind). A genuine wine of potential and good balance. From 2014. 2031-34 Dec 2011

2009 ()

dark robe; ample bouquet – led by a blackberry aroma, slight damp notes, the fruit ripe. Supple start that is juicy, sustained; the tannins are ripe and mellow. It ends on clear length, has a good follow through. Complete wine with life on the finish, an appealing serenity also. From late 2012. Is moving into line with some alacrity. To be bottled in 3 months, June 2011. 2028-31 March 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ***** (barrel/casks) quite dark robe; seasoned bouquet, smoke black berry fruit with a little leather in its liqueur plum fruit aroma. There is a Grenache centrefold here – it is ripe and fleshy, has a definite motor of ripe power inside. It spreads out broadly late on, has a rich finale. The aftertaste is red berry, mulberry as well as some mint snap there. I like the mid-palate fruit and depth. The tannins need quietening – they are well present, but constructive. From 2014. 2027-29 Oct 2010


fair red robe; the bouquet gives airs of soaked red berries, roast pork, laurel and thyme, bouquet garni, also cedar. This is a varied nose whose depth is not entirely convincing. The palate has the sometimes fragile content of 2006: it is upright, has fine if rather brittle tannins, but fluid fruit. It shows a sweet pastille note late on. Several different elements mingle here, are not in the same place. The aftertaste is grainy. Will it fuse? – that is the question. Not sure. 15°. 2023-25  Dec 2012