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The Wines

80% Roussanne (early 1990s), 10-20% Grenache blanc, 10% Clairette blanche (1940s) from clay-limestone, galet stone soils on Cabrières (N-W), Maucoil (N-W), before 2014 50% Grenache blanc, 30% Clairette blanche, 5-10% Roussanne, 0-20% Bourboulenc), varieties fibre glass vat co-fermented at 13°-16°C, the Roussanne very, very ripe, vat or large barrel raised on fine lees 6 months (until 2009 steel vat raised 12 months), malo blocked, 600-1,200 b

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; candy, pear bonbon air, aniseed notes. The palate is tight, doesn’t show much generosity, stands firm, needs to breathe. The base is solid. Glow on the aftertaste is an issue. This is compact, with white fruits, greengage plum, brioche in the flavour. It’s a bit of a vinification over place wine. 15° on the label is high – add 0.5°. 1,200 b. 80% Rouss, 10% Gren bl, 10% Clairette blanche. Bottled March 2019. 2028-30 Oct 2019

2016 ()

restrained yellow colour; the bouquet has a bouncy verve about it,  citrus fruits, mandarin juice present, salty notes, apricot skin airs. It delivers a good beat, and there’s foundation below the jaunty top notes. The palate has a nutty-white fruits flavour, an inherent zestiness, runs with free delivery, and is just in transition between first youth and second stage. It can flesh out further on the second half, so, while it’s racy now, it will be more dimensional and interesting if left until mid-2020. It will be great with lobster. 14.5°. 2029-32 Feb 2019

2015

bright fine yellow robe. Lemon paste, greengage plum start the bouquet, a quiet sense of honeysuckle flowers. The palate has good heart, a fleshy centre, takes on extra strength towards the finish, flashing some apricot, and a near note of tobacco. A pretty sturdy white Châteauneuf. It lingers attractively, with a bonny perfumed note. 15°. 800 b. 80% Rouss, 10% Clair, 10% Gren bl. Bottled March 2016. 2025-27 Sept 2016

2014 ()

fine yellow robe. Peach stone, cooked white fruits first aroma, a little brioche baked bread. The palate has southern depth, expressed in a rolling ball of gras, the texture smooth. There are outer pockets of cut, ginger style covering. It is fresh, while still carrying local gras - so that works well. It can be decanted to free it up, and to ease some late tannin. 14°. A changed blend of 80% Rouss, 20% Gren bl this year. Bottled Jun 2015. 600 b. €14.50 is very fair. From spring 2016. 2024-26  Oct 2015 

2013

pale yellow colour. Distictive apple and pear aroma on the nose but it is a touch oxidative. The palate is round but unexpressive and falls a little flat. Generally, there is a lack of precision. 14°. To 2020 JL Oct 2014

2011

medium depth yellow. The nose shows reduction, has a “high” white fruit aroma – this is pongy, so decant it. There are airs of cardboard and hazelnut. The palate picks up a note of rather droopy, glazed fruit, sticky white jam. It is caught between freshness and good fat – No Man’s Land. It is all rather static, plain. There are bitter, more tough notes on the finish. Try from late 2013. Decant this. 14.5°. 50% GB, 30% Cl, 20% R, €14.50, bottled June 2012 this year. 2019-20  Dec 2012

2010

pale yellow; has a soft tread nose with white raisin, vanilla in it and a lime minerality – it presents an aperitif-friendly opening. The palate comes along softly as well, is even restricted. It holds mild gras richness with a sweet infill. The flavour is like white raisin with honey on the aftertaste. Its acidity is fine, but it lacks that bit “extra”, is a bit tame. 14°. 2016-17 Dec 2011

2008 No Rating

pale robe; the nose has the air of “high” fruit, is pongy and reductive, sappy. The palate has a lactic debut, a very fleeting display here, then it vanishes. No second bottle, alas. Nov 2009

2007

gentle yellow; caramel, light honey aroma, steady white fruits there, nougat, green apple. This a rounded style of white Châteauneuf rather than a fresh one. Peach and nut combine in the taste. Honest, rather traditional and still a runner in the future thanks to its rich heart, even if the content is low key. 2015-17 Nov 2008