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The Wines

35% Grenache blanc, 35% Bourboulenc (both 1930s), 20% Clairette, 10% Roussanne, steel vat-fermented 2 weeks at 17°C, raised 5-6 months on fine lees, regular lees stirring, malo blocked, called Vieilles Vignes until late-2010s, organic wine, 1,580-2,500 b

2019

pale yellow; apricot, pear skin aroma with a fleeting floral note attached – the bouquet takes a restrained route. The palate has a squeezy gras attack, is round and layered, develops intensity, white stone fruit, peach stone foremost. The finish glows a little. It’s still rather in its shell post bottling. There is a relative fineness on the neat finish. Discreet citrus notes keep it gliding along. It’s been made with a light, careful touch, is appealing, a beau vin. 14.2°. 2031-33 May 2020

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; the nose has a snug aroma of white fruits, peach and rose petal, a hint of citrus. It’s a calm, serene start. The palate offers fresh cut in its compote fruits, easy richness within. It ends smoothly, rounded, notes of salt on the aftertaste. It carries detail, fine acidity, gives clear drinking, drinks fine now, can serve for the aperitif, or with steamed fish dishes, Japanese cuisine, for example. 13°. 1,860 b. 35% Gren bl, 35% Bourb, 20% Clair, 10% Rouss. €22. Bottled Apr 2019. 2026-27 Oct 2019

2017 ()

pale, fine yellow robe; the nose expresses infused tea, dried fruits, has the air of the traditional, not showy white varieties. The palate is shapely, nicely filled with a textured, agreeably firm couch of peach-nectarine fruit, the richness holding steadily and elegantly. This is good table wine, decanting a help. 13.5°. 1,580 b. 35% Gren bl, 35% Bourb, 20% Clair, 10% Rouss. Bottled March 2018. €22. 2026-27 Oct 2018

2016

yellow robe. Has a traditionally styled nose, airs of cooked apple, ripe peach, has a grapey quality. There’s also cooked lemon, tobacco some apricot, even Cantaloupe melon in a well varied setting. This bears good, compact content, very much in the 2016 style if the grower waited for proper ripeness on the traditional varieties, notably Grenache blanc and Clairette. It has a nourishing depth, good heart. It is lightly fresh, clear, on aniseed, as it ends. This is genuine, comes with grapiness and ease of texture. Its content persists well all through, offers good length. It’s broad and appealing. 13°. 2025-26 Sept 2017

2015

yellow robe, a touch of southern fullness. The bouquet is broad, not yet capable of offering detail. There is a hint of cooked white fruits and grapiness in a pretty deep setting, has southern strength. The palate is oily, robust, serves a grounded, traditional glass of white Châteauneuf with white fruits jam, stewed compote in the flavour. It leads on ripeness, the finish rounded, rather vigorous. Decant it. 13.7°.  2025-27 Sept 2016

2014 ()

shiny, flinty pale yellow. There is a baked aspect to the nose, which is subdued in expression for now. It has weight for the future. For now, there is a baked bread, apricot harness on it. The palate is solid, with proper depth and the potential to live well, and accompany robustly flavoured dishes. True, complete, traditional wine: good with veal, Osso Bucco, Mexican cuisine. There is a good pocket of richness on the aftertaste. It is bold and inspiring - not a wine for those who seek fruit, fruit and yet more fruit. 13.5°. Bottled Feb 2015. €19.50. 2,500 b. 2027-29  Oct 2015

2013

pale but bright – almost see-through. Citrus, pear and peach aromas – even a touch of lemon sherbet. Easy, fluid, well fruited palate. Lighter weight and style here. A wine for early pleasure rather than mature appeal. 13°. To 2018 JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

pale yellow. The first aroma is of pear, oily airs; hazelnut and greengage plum follow – this is a nicely varied bouquet. The palate starts on a hazelnut flavour, has plenty of life and matter inside, keeping its local origins, its strength quite hidden. The finish is salty, grainy, has a touch of baked bread in it. This shows traditional Châteauneuf virtues, is suited to food, is a sturdy, grounded wine of no pretence. A glycerol-centric wine, bring on the Mediterranean dishes. 14°. Bottled March 2012, €18. 2024-25  Dec 2012

2010 ()

pale, flinty colour; the bouquet presents a pear aroma with earthy notes, is simpatico, has a spiced, mineral freedom, airs of lime and white fruits with the pear. The palate shows grip early on, gains in weight and lengthens well, has late bite. It comes in a not over polished, good, local style, the exit rather truffly. It drinks well with an onion tart. 13°. 2018-19  March 2012 Previously Dec 2011 NR very pale, cream robe. Brisk acidity in the nose which is not expressive, has a flat undertone. Apple, cardboard style debut to the palate, dry acidity here. No Can Do. Sugary aftertaste. This is all over the place. 13°. Dec 2011

2007 ()

(vat) pale colour; zesty, grapefruit and hazelnut aroma. Dried fruits and nutty flavour, with some reserves for the future – more depth than some this year. The length is correct. There is a nice combination between its fresh aroma and its more reserved, filled palate. Pretty wine, with good quiet core. 2012-13 Jan 2008

2005 ()

clear, sub-yellow robe. Stylish, lightly creamy bouquet with some greengage and cut of definition, a little reserved. Fresh, nutted start, evident and agreeable harmony, this can evolve and move into a good second phase. Fresh, with subtle appeal, and is long. 2015-17 November 2006 Previously Feb 2006, Montpellier ** floating, floral bouquet, subdued by its recent bottling. Taut flavour, bonbon with a little pear. Quite firm heart within, a food wine. Difficult to judge right now. 2012 Feb 2006, Montpellier

2004 ()

ripe bouquet, shows dried white fruits like apricot. Solid start to palate, then stops. Flavour of white fruits, flan. Honest wine of limited length. 2010 Feb 2006, Montpellier