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The Wines

50-90% Grenache (pre 1939), 10-50% Syrah, 0-5% Mourvèdre (Syrah up from 10% in early 2010s, Grenache down from 90%), hand harvested, destemmed, 10-15 day vinification, part vat emptying/refilling, cap punching, enamel vat raised 12 months, fined, filtered, 15-25,000 b

2016

bright, alluring dark red colour. A smoky blackberry aroma leads the nose, with a sweet, crushed loganberry platform, some licorice, a hint of dried herbs. This is juicy and agreeably fat, plump, spiced; it really billows out with fluid generosity before developing interesting granular tannins and a powdered texture, the finale savoury. There are bundles of local origin here, a picture of gorse fringed vineyards, rosemary and thyme, mint – a cornucopia of the south. Raspberry concentrate lies at its heart. It gives great drinking, is an authentic, true, STGT Côtes du Rhône. After one hour, the air renders it more serious, less flamboyant, indicating that there is structure here, a wine that can live and evolve as well. Drink with grills, red meats, roast lamb. 13.5°. 2023-24 July 2017

2014

quite a shiny red robe. Has a red cherry aroma with a note of baked bread, brioche, croissant. The palate deals a direct, almost steely hand, holds clear if rather stretched content. The finish is nearly sharp. Try from mid-2016, and hope it is more rounded, and less on its acidity, then. It probably can fuse, and will always be a clear drink. 13.5°. 15,000 b. €7.50. Bottled June 2015. 2019-20  Oct 2015 

2011

sound red robe. Smoky red fruit air – its raspberry has freedom, is airborne, comes with a toffee note and garrigue touches, isn’t yet ensemble. The palate gives cooked, spiced red berry with grain on its second half. The palate is a bit raw, gives a sense of unfinished business. The tannins have bite, shuffling in at the end. Fair length here. Authentic Côtes du Rhône. It finishes a little bit parched and dustily for now. Suited to pigeon, for instance. Food a must. 14°. From 2014. 2018-19. 85% Gren, 10% Syr, 5% Mourv, €5.50, 25,000 b this year

2009 ()

(vat) matt robe, fair red; resin-prune, date, Christmas cake aroma that is full, grounded, weighty. Mature style to the palate – hence date, sherry flavours, black raisin, and some minor late dryness. Solid, punchy. Winter foods and open fires beckon for this. It revives its resin note right at the end. From spring 2012. 2016-17 Oct 2010

2007 ()

(vat) bright, three-quarter red colour; has a live fruit, red jelly aroma that bears a hint of laurel and herbal seasoning, also baked stones. The palate's clear fruit is simple in nature, and the taste is like jam or jelly (gello). It ends with a little grip. Sound enough, but could have more chew – is a bit simple. 2014-15 March 2009

2006 ()

red with some black traces; there are “dark” areas in the bouquet – pepper runs across the aroma that is led by brambly, wild fruits, and a meaty side. The palate is a fleshy affair – loganberry – big red berries – have a tannin surround to them. It ends on a sinew of tannin and leather. Gutsy wine, without being over the top. Needs food. Is a bit cellar pushed. To 2012-13. June 2008 Previously Jan 2008 *(*) quite full, dark red colour; has a nutty, cooked black fruits aroma with some degree of ripeness here. Alongside, though, is a dart of red fruit acidity – gives it a pointed note. Has a red berry, assured flavour at the start, with decent siding. Has potentially good flow, but ends on its tannin and acidity now, and the aftertaste is rather dry, with sharp notes. 2012-14 on this showing, but is not a whole wine yet, even though it has been bottled. Jan 2008